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About duggi

  • Birthday 05/11/1984

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  • Gender Male
  • Location San Francisco, CA

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  1. So...unfortunately shortly after my last post, 2018 ran me over. The red NK has been sitting in my back driveway, untouched since last April (like most of my personal life). Mostly crazy amounts of work ("yay" for having a career...), but family, money, time, etc etc etc, have also all played a part. That said, I'm getting ready to dive back in. I never got the engine to Terry, just never had time, but still plan to do so at some point this summer. Meanwhile, a friend recently found a decent (ie: could be running easily) 1.8 from an e21 for $200 for me. While it's not ideal, it will enable me to get the project moving forward and the car put together while I'm navigating a better engine rebuild with the 2.0 block. I'm also trying to figure out everything I need to rebuild the front suspension/subframe so I can actually put the engine back in...that one's a bit harder because it has some kind of frankensteined front axle mixed with NK/02 parts, but with the single-circuit brake system. Fun. I'm excited to get this moving again! Things are settling down for me, career is going well (have had two raises in the last 14 months) and so I think it's time. Not much else to say, just thought I'd make a quick update, say hi, and see what's up around here.
  2. duggi

    BMW 2800/Bavaria

    The front and rear sub-frames/suspensions are pretty-much interchangeable with the e12, and if stories are to be believed, the rear sub-frame should fit into an NK with a tiny bit of work (if an e12 one works as some people claim...). It's probably rusted (they all are), but the sunroof components should be completely interchangeable between NK, '02, e3 and e12 models...and possibly very early e28. Panel, seals, cables, top chrome trim, crank, sliders, etc..all of it. Not much else I know of. If it was a 3.0, the m30 would be of interest to the e9 guys.
  3. Where did you get these cheaper, higher quality aftermarket door seals? 😃
  4. OMG I want it. Thank god it's all the way across the country and I don't have space for it... Also the swan-neck mirror makes me think it's likely a '67.
  5. duggi


  6. duggi


  7. duggi

    BMW 1800 TISA

    I can add a few data-points here: my 11/66 build-date 2000 has the earlier rear sub-frame and long-neck diff and my 09/67 build-date 2000 has the later rear sub-frame and short-neck diff (side-loader). From the research I've done, the change-over appears to have happened in very-late '66 or very-early '67...February-ish '67 sticks out as most likely to me.
  8. I really want to replace the clock with a tachometer because driving a manual without a tach is weird to me, but I don't necessarily want to spend $250 because it's listed specifically for an NK 2000 if the $50 2000cs unit will fit =) All the eBay listings I can find show that they're all 80mm, so I'm wondering if the difference between them just face style. Can anyone confirm for me whether or not the different tachs for the NKs & NK Coupes are functionally interchangeable? Specifically speaking for the 2.0 liter models (2000/2000cs) since I know 12v would be important. The part numbers I see in the catalog are as follows: Early 2000: 62 13 9 557 209 - Wood - Listed for 2000 Ti & TiLux 62 13 8 680 061 - White - Listed for 2000 Ti & TiLux Late 2000: 62 13 1 351 756 - No Description - Listed for 2000 Ti, TiLux, & Tii 62 13 1 350 912 - No Description - Listed for 2000 Ti & TiLux 2000cs: 62 13 1 352 411 - No Description 62 13 8 780 015 - No Description
  9. I have a quote in-hand from Terry Tinney of Livermore, CA (http://www.terrytinney.com) for the machine work on my block and head. He's a little backlogged, so work will likely be commencing in June. The block will be tanked and fluxed, the bored to first-overbore and honed, and decked if needed. The head will get cleaned and decked (if needed) new valves (incl. guides/seals) and a 3-angle valve job. I'll be specifying larger valves and will be going with Terry's recommendation as he's built plenty of m10's. I plan to assemble the engine myself. I've finally settled on what specs I want for the engine: I was debating between building to 2000 Ti specs, but have since decided to go a bit further and am looking at the 1800 Ti/SA configuration as a guide... a "2.0 Ti/SA" so to speak. I'll be ordering custom pistons from Ireland Engineering, aiming for 10.5:1 compression, and a cam from dbilas, probably somewhere between 292º and 304º...still debating that. In the spirit of the Ti/SA, I'll be going with the dual sidedraft Weber 45's. I've done a lot of reading and realize the jump from the 40 Solex's to the 45 Webers means the engine will be much more high-strung, but I think I want that...when I forced myself to think about my goals for the car, specifically how I want to use it, I realized I won't be driving it often or on frequent long trips, so a high-strung engine won't be annoying to me at all. I'll be driving it on weekends, taking it to car events and drives, and possibly a less-than-once-per-year long-distance (I mean within CA or a bordering state) car event. I'm even considering taking it to some auto-crosses since it has the sway bars and green springs already. Cost is definitely going up-up-up, though (you all know the drill). Originally I was hoping the engine could simply be coaxed into life again, but after seeing the evidence of the head gasket failure, I knew that wasn't a reality. I then switched to searching for a running 2.0 m10, which is possible to get, but not for any kind of money you'd be willing to spend on a bone-stock "used" US-spec engine with unknown mileage (wah wah). So then I circled-back to rebuilding what I have...and if I'm doing that (and spending nearly $2500 on machine work), I might as well build an engine I want rather than a stock unit, so here I am...looking down the barrel of a $4k+ engine build. Happy days. The good news is that the engine can be transplanted into whichever car I ultimately plan to keep (the Chamonix NK is still awaiting my inspection and ultimate decision), so it won't be a loss at all. Anyway, until next time =)
  10. My 68 2000 doesn't have this..I'll have to peek under the hood of my '67 when I'm under there next month and check.
  11. Today was they day I finally tore down the engine. I've actually never removed a full engine from a car before or taken apart a full engine (I've disassembled and rebuilt a head/reinstalled in-car), so was fun new territory for me. I was surprised the block disassembly only took me two hours today, including cleaning up my garage. Next I need to have the block cleaned and magnafluxed, then if it's good it'll be bored out to first overbore (second, if needed) and put back together. I didn't see any cracks, but it'll need a professional to make that call. A few photos below with some light comments, you can view the full set here: https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0xGgZLKuJI9Go9 Before starting: Pan off...kinda dirty in there (remember this engine had milk-shaked in ~1996 and sat like that until 2018): Getting things off...gonna go through a lot of ziplocs with this car: Flipped-over, starting to remove the pistons: Pistons out...Mahle, stock size for a '75 '02 (8.5:1 comp): And all done!!!
  12. Just a small update: nothing has been done to the car with work being crazy and all the rain we've had lately, but I was able to get the VIN verified yesterday afternoon so I can finish the registration on the car...I have an appt. with the DMV on April 2nd to finish the registration and pick up my black TILUX plates =D I'm also finally settling on what I want to do with the engine. I've known for a while that I want to do dual-sidedrafts like a TI/Lux, but now I'm definitely leaning toward a 2.0 TI/SA style engine with high compression, a hot cam and dual Weber 45s. I have an e28 as my DD and this won't be replacing that for those duties, so it needs to be more fun. And it's hard to resist building a quick, lightweight car. I may even leave the interior stripped for a few years so I can enjoy it more fully on the track. If anyone has ideas as to what type of cam would pair well with the Webers, I'd love to hear it!
  13. duggi

    Rare 1600-2 Steering Wheel

    Still available.
  14. duggi

    value of 1800 non ti,

    Considering these cars odometers only go up to 5 digits, I'm not sure you can say with any level of confidence that it only has 68k KMs...that's barely broken-in. It's more likely that it's at 168k.
  15. duggi

    value of 1800 non ti,

    Considering how much it costs to get a rusty-non-running NK into non-rusty-and-running condition, $1,000,000 seems reasonable haha! All joking aside: I paid $500 for one non-rusty, but non-running and needing mechanical restoration NK and $2400 for a complete rust-bucket. I know that's of little help, but they are recent price-points in CA for comparison. Both are Euro model 2000's.