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Slavs

Solex
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Everything posted by Slavs

  1. Unfortunately, the only way you can be 100% sure of what you're getting is to restore the car from a good base. And, this takes a lot of time, effort and $$$$, especially if you are not doing most of the work yourself. I don't think I longer have the time and patience. I don't know. It's all gotten very expensive. And, it is certainly not as fun. Slavs
  2. Your reading is about right. At 76mph you should be reving at 3200rmp with a 3.64. If you had a 3.90, you would be between 3400 and 3500rpm at that speed.
  3. Mahle made 1mm oversize pistons for the 1.6, 1.8 and 2.0 M10 motors. They are not listed in the factory manuals, though. The Mahle piston box is labeled with the piston size, compression ratio and the required bore size for the piston, which is usually about .05mm larger than the piston.
  4. https://losangeles.craigslist.org/wst/cto/d/napa-1966-porsche-912-coupe/6956946410.html Up until about 2010 a Porsche 912 was a very affordable classic car. You could have picked up a very clean example for about $8,000. And, now this ? I'm familiar with the 356 and 912 Porsches as I worked on them from time to time. I think that the 912 is in many ways much more practical and economical compared to the 911. But recently their prices have sky rocketed, and they have become quite a status symbol among the new young professionals who have recently acquired them here in Los Angeles. One would think they just acquired a 356GS Carrera of 550 spyder. "Oh, I recently bought an 02, but you know, I own a 912". OK ! So what. What's the big deal ? 912 owners once cowered, exclaiming "Well I couldn't afford a 911, it's my first car" etc. But now, it's an all together different matter. Recently, I went to one of these "Cars & Coffee" events in LA where a bunch of these 912 Yahoos were hanging out. I found them so obnoxious that I will never go again. It's just a 912, and in the end it's just a car.
  5. Yes, "Correct" is certainly one of the main key words among the Porsche fanatics. Most of those people can't turn a wrench, but they're all over you if they feel that something isn't "correct" with your car. Sure, I'm also guilty of pointing out year specific differences on 02's, but I also understand that we have to make do with what we have. Many of us are driving Frankensteins, not by choice, but out of practical necessity. Back during the 80s the 356 was a daily driver car vs. a solely "Cars & Coffee" show car. People drove around their beat up Porsches with dents, faded paint and dripping oil. And now it's like "How dare you park your 02 next to my pristine, "Correct" 356". Many of these new owners are young professionals who can't even change the oil on their car. Are we not men ? We are Devo, "D", "E", "V", "O". Yes, I too, went to a top tier university, but I also learned to get my hands greasy and crawl underneath cars at the wrecking yards, located in the hot sweltering bowls of Los Angeles. Nothing like rolling around in sand and oil on a 100 + degree day in a yard located next to a garbage dump, where the breeze is blowing in your direction. But, I got to get that "Limited Slip" off the 320i. I just got one stubborn bolt left. "Limited Slip" fever will drive a man to desperation. I know. I was afflicted with it at one time.
  6. I’ve been around the BMW world since 1982, And. Since then I, too, have suffered various afflictions specific to BMW. So, I hope some of you newbies don’t get offended as my message is also self deprecating. “Tii” fever: This fever is highly contagious and has been spreading at an alarming rate. People afflicted with it measure everything in terms of “Tii”. They keep repeating “Tii” while talking about any 02. They tend to view all other 02s as lower rungs of the 02 ladder. The “Alpina” high altitude sickness: Nobody is quite sure of what exactly constitutes a true “Alpina” , and the high altitude Alpina sickness is just as elusive. People afflicted with it are fixate on “Alpina”, but are unable to clearly define “Alpina”. The Alpina induction system has sucked the oxygen around them, and they are left impaired similar to a mountain climber left without his oxygen bottle at high altitude. The “Euro” Dysentery: Worst than Montezuma’s revenge, people afflicted with this malady label everything as “Euro”. Euro comes out of their mouths and behinds like a liquid manure. They throw “Euro” everywhere and over everything. The “Limited Slip”: People afflicted with this disease have a certain gait to their walk. They are convinced that a limited slip is the solution, but they are wrong. Recognizing this stubbornness is a major factor to overcoming this disease. Yes, at one time or another I’ve been afflicted with some of these, although, I haven’t contracted “Tii” fever, yet. I’ve been especially careful. Cure & Treatment: The only known cure or treatment is to drive a plane jane early, 6V, bone stock 1600 for a couple of years.
  7. Finally, somebody not afflicted by "Tii" fever; a realistic price for a Tii. It doesn't look that bad. There are other fevers and catch words afflicting the BMW crowd. They include the "Alpina" high altitude sickness and the "Euro" dysentery. Slavs
  8. One of my friends relocated his batter under the rear seat. He used an Optima battery which can be mounted on its side to prevent a potential hazard of the seat springs and frame coming on in contact with the terminals. He used cables from a newer BMW he found at the junkyard. I think it was one of the e30 series. He never had any problems with it.
  9. I understand many of you guys are relocating your battery to the trunk, But I don't understand why on a street car ? The trunk space is reduced considerably with that "Ultimate" duel purpose battery mount / rear shock tower brace. I've seen some battery relocations under the rear seat, but that's not the greatest place either for a street car. That's my Nay-Say for the day, Slavs
  10. I've always been of the opinion that the long neck diffs are a better design; You can change drive flange seal without worrying about the internal crush collar, they hold more oil, and they are heavier. That is one location on an 02 where you want more weight. BMW switched to the short neck probably because it cost less to produce.
  11. That's a great deal. Slavs
  12. If you currently have a 3.64 diff and an OD 5 speed, your rpms at 80mph in 5th gear should be about 3,400rpm. And that is with tires at or near stock diameter. Your RPM reading is way too high. If you had a 3.90, you would be turning 3.660rpms in 5th at 80, which is nearer to your reading. With a 4.10 diff and an OD 5 speed you'll be turning about 3850 rpm at 80 mph. Are you sure you have a 3.64 diff ? It sounds like you have a 3.90 or possibly 4.10.
  13. I've attached pics of the ashtray and its tray. Notice the details, including the small plastic wheels in the tray which serve to guide and secure the ashtray. These guide wheels are installed through a metal tab serving as a spring to provide tension for the ashtray. Certainly, a very well crafted, but over engineered German part. They simplified things and did away with these parts as production progressed, so to lower cost of production. I had a lot of these things, but I gave away most of them to fellow 02 owners who all wanted to install one of these dashes in their cars. But, none of them ever did, and I'm sure the ashtrays are collecting dust in their parts stashes. I came across about thirty 1967 era 1600s at the local U Pick Part salvage yards during the 90s. A few of them were 1966 cars. And, it was sad to see these cars get crushed. I tried, though, to salvage parts with my very limited resources.
  14. I'll get you pics of the ashtray sleeve.
  15. My apologies. I jumped the gun !
  16. A US spec 69 is not considered a "Euro" spec car. 1967 was the last year in which there was no difference between Euro and US cars. For US spec cars, hey did away with that dash in 1968 due to US safety regulations. However, they retained it in Europe until about 1973. So, you can retrofit a US spec car with that dash, and your US spec 69 will even have a hole in the dash for the ashtray. But, that is not the only part you will need to use that dash. The center counsole is different as it comes up to the dash at a different angle, the top cover on top of the steering column is longer and made of metal, The instrument cluster cover is smaller and made of plastic, the cover pieces under the dash are different and I'm assuming you already have the correct three piece dash with the instrument cluster cover and bottom dash pad being specific to the style of dash using the dash strip shown in your photo. While the plated dash trim shown is made of plastic, the ashtray is chrome plated metal to match the trim. It is very different from the US spec ashtray installed in the center counsole. I've installed this dash into my US spec 69 1600, and I was surprised at how many things I needed to juggle. I thought I can just change out the bottom dash pad, but I was wrong. I purchased all of my parts from the local U Pick Part salvage yard where 02s were plentiful. And, they cost almost nothing. I've seen the ashtray you need on the internet. And, people are asking up to $300 for one, which is crazy considering I paid $2 for the last one I bought from the salvage yard during in the late 90s.
  17. 3.90 short neck. Stamped numbers indicate this: 39 / 10 = 3.90. Slavs
  18. It's good you're OK, but its tough to see your car in that shape. As bad as it looks, it's probably repairable. The roads (especially in and around LA ) are very dangerous. Did the other driver stop after the collision ?
  19. Another possibility is to adopt the hydraulic clutch by retaining your existing pedal box, booster and brake master. In this case, you will need to modify your existing pedal box to include a mounting location for the clutch master. This was done on my 67 1600 where the fabricator welded on a piece of sheet metal to the back of the pedal box where the clutch slave is mounted. He then drilled holes for the clutch slave bolts. The welded on piece of sheet metal serves as reinforcement for the clutch master mounting location. I was able to convert to a 5 speed without replacing the brake booster and pedal box and rebending the brake lines. I'm running a 2.0L, though. The down side to my set-up is that the older brake components are more expensive to maintain. But, I'm happy with it.
  20. As far as the mechanical clutch is concerned, you can only retain it if you use the 235/5 close ratio 5 speed, which is both, rare and expensive. There were 3 versions of the close ratio 5 speed available for the 02s, one version was considered the street version while the other two were considered as the race and rally versions. They only differ in the ratios or lengths of the 1st and 2nd gear. The first gear in particular is much longer or taller in the close ratio 5 speed vs. your stock 4 speed. And, in the "Race" and "Rally" versions the 1st gear is even taller. This was done to give the cars a chance to get a good start out of the hole without having to almost immediately shift into second. You can adopt the hydraulic clutch, but you would need to switch out to the 2002 pedal box and associated booster assembly and booster where the brake master is mounted to the booster. In this scenario, you would have to ditch your existing remote style T50 booster, pedal box mounted brake master, and re-bend your brake lines etc. In your current configuration, it is more difficult finding someone to rebuild your brake master and booster. They are out there, just more expensive to rebuild. I have a 67 1600 with a similar set-up to yours, and I have also decided to leave the original booster and brakes for both originality purposes and because I like all the extra space in the engine compartment that would otherwise be taken up by the more modern booster assembly. Now as far as converting the 1600 to a speed, there are some misconceptions about the similarity of the 1600 clutch assembly to the early 2002 (1968-mid69) 225mm clutch assembly. While similar in principle, they are completely different. The 200mm three prong 1600 clutch assembly, including clutch disk, throw-out bearing and flywheel are all a left over from the earlier NK 1800 and 1800ti. The throwout bearing is also identical to the later throw-out bearing used on the 215mm diagphram clutch of the 2002. And, this 215mm dighphram pressure plate is identical to the 215mm pressure plate of the 320i including the 5 speed overdrive version. Since the pressure plates are identical in dimension, the throw-out bearings are also identical in the critical dimension of height and diameter. While I have not attempted this, there are a few people on this board who have mated a 320i overdrive 5 speed to the 200mm stock 1600 clutch assembly. Other people who were unsure have torn apart their early 1600 motors and used a 8 bolt crankshaft from the later 1602 ( from 1970-76) along with the larger 215mm flywheel and diaghram pressure plate. Your car looks clean, and the 13" Compagnolos look great. In the end you may opt for the 5 speed close ratio 235/5, but you will be 1:1 in 5th and won't decrease your revs. If you want to achieve that with the close ratio 5 speed, you would need to replace your 4.11 diff with the slightly taller 3.90. But, you have a longneck diff, and while the 4.10 is abundant in the long neck version diff, the 3.90 is rare in the longneck form in the USA. It was used on some 1600ti cars along with the NK 2000ti and 2000CS. But, the drive flange on the NK long necks needs to be replaced with your drive flange, as your deiveshaft is different. The 3.90 diffs are more readily available in the shortneck version, but you will need to replace your rear subframe and driveshaft to include this diff. Many of the 1600 pilots have done this. It sounds scarier than it actually is to do. Another way to decrease revs in your 1600 is to replace the 4.11 longneck diff with the 3.64 longneck diff from the 1968-mid 69 2002. They are easier to find than the 3.90 longneck, and they feel great in 3rd and 4th gear, however you will notice the 12% loss in torque in 1st and 2nd. This is the most economical route, though. And, you might want to give it a try before embarking on the more expensive and labor intensive approaches. So, there you have it. Slavs
  21. Incredible work of engineering. Considering the time and effort put into designing and assembling these motors, Porsche probably never made money in its 550 spyders and 356 Carreras. But, the racing success and prestige associated with this 4 cam motor, boosted sales for Porsche in the long run. Neither the cars nor the motors were fully appreciated in the US until relatively recently. They were dirt cheap during the 70s. And the Americana Hot Rod crowd had nothing but contempt for Porsche and this 4 cam motor; "What's that, only a 4 cylinder with 95 cubic inches?" One of my neighbors had the 2 liter 356 Carrera. He would always complain to me that when he passed his kids would probably sell his car as they don't appreciate it since they are into old Camaros. When he passed, they sold it for $180k, less than half its value. His car had a dry sump for oil lubrication.
  22. I left out the 2000C and CS. The 2000C was equipped with the 4.11 diff. The 2000CS was equipped with the 3.90 diff.
  23. As far as the source of these diffs from NK cars: The standard 1800 was equipped with the 4.22 diff while the 1800ti got the 4.11 or 3.89 (3.90). The 2000 was equipped with the 4.11 diff The 2000ti and 2000tii were equipped with the 3.90 diff
  24. That certainly is an airbox for the 1600ti equipped with the early T50 remote booster, as it does not have an indent for the later ti booster which sat higher in the engine bay. The 1600ti was only produced for about a year, and I don't know at what point they changed to the newer booster and airbox with indent. But, your airbox is certainly rare and specific to the early production 1600ti or any other early 66-67 1600 running sidedraft carbs and still using the T50 remote brake booster.
  25. Looking for a long neck diff in 3.90. Some of the NK cars were equipped with one along with some of the 1600 ti cars. Some of you guys in Europe may have one laying around. Schimmer tuning in Germany had the long neck available in every imaginable ratio, but Schimmer has been long gone.


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