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Pierre

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  1. Pierre
    Thanks Colin. I am happy to hear you are satisfied with the air dam. Nothing is indestructible but a reinforced fiberglass air dam that is properly mounted will resist minor impacts without cracking or breaking. The air dam I make has an impregnated mesh strip along the top where the fasteners attach and the bottom where the lower support attaches. The mesh strips prevent cracks from forming under minor constant vibrations and major cracks from spreading when the air dam is hit. Here is link with some pictures showing what I am talking about. http://www.probimmer.com/Pierre/kamei_repro_spoiler.htm
  2. Pierre
    Just as we modified our ignition curves, and carb jetting when the fuel properties changed in the past, we will do the same with E15.
  3. Pierre
    Before panicking, let's slow down a moment. What rubber part does fuel make contact with? Fuel lines. Anything else? The diaphragm in the fuel pump. Is that all? I think not. So you go to Pep Boys or Napa or Kragen, buy some fuel hose that resists ethanol and you're done. The worst scenario would be replacing your mechanical pump with an electric pump designed to run ethanol. A small inconvenience if we want to keep driving a 40+ year old cars. I am more worried about my L-jet M30 or K-jet M20 or even the Motronic M20 and M42.
  4. Pierre
    I have a 74. Has not run in 3 years. It's on non-op. Needs attention. Complete. Partially disassembled. A project for sure but not something that would require a whole lot to get back on the road. I was saving it as a next project but my current projects are just taking too long and I don't have the amount of time I used to. Car is in Van Nuys. I am looking for $1500. Let me know if that would fit what you are looking for and if it's in your budget. This picture was taken 4 years ago before some disassembly was performed to get some body work done. I do not have current pictures right now but if you are intereted, I can take some. '> '> '>
  5. Pierre
    The Kamei spoiler is designed to be installed without a front bumper. It has already has a "bumper" in it. I have seen it installed with a bumper but it's not recommended. The look is a matter of preference. I make a fiberglass reproduction of the Kamei air dam and I have an Ireland spoiler on my 74 tii because I wanted to retain the front Euro bumper. From a performance standpoint, the Kamei works a lot better at directing the air around the car. But you won't feel the benefit until you start hitting 80+ mph and need your car to handle at those speeds.
  6. Pierre
    Definitely not gold. If you go with black wheels, or a charcoal/gun metal dark grey, then I think your trim should also be the same. If you plan to use the trim in stock form, then wheels should be silver. You could go trimless but I think that aviator grey is not a good color for a trimless look. I just got my 74 tii painted a VW color. (Platinum grey metallic.) I painted a trim line instead of installing the belt molding. The trim line is polaris and the wheels will be silver. I am not a purist obviously. I could post some pictures. Opinion about colors, and trim: ask 5 people and you will get 8 or more different opinions.
  7. Pierre
    S-drives. Great summer tires. Very sticky on dry pavement. I have them on my E30 318is. 205-55-15. But when it gets wet... well. they are no as sticky. The other factor is tire width. A stock E30 uses 195-14 tires. I am using a tire that is one step wider and one stop larger diameter. wider tires tend to hydroplane more. A 2002 came with 165-13 tires. You are moving 3 stops up in widths and 2 steps in diameter. Great for dry roads. But quite the jump to resist hydroplaning, especially for the S-drive. Try a set of 185-70-13 (if you have access to a set) and feel the difference. Worn suspension components, loose wheel bearings, misaligned front end, significantly lowered rear ends with no compensation for rear-end toe-in are all contributors to a squirrely car in the wet.
  8. Pierre
    Absolutely. Followed by a drive up highway 33, or a cruise down PCH.
  9. Pierre
    John has a cool BMW. Very nice car and a very nice guy. (It has my front light brackets.) Next time, call me. I can be there in 20 minutes.
  10. Pierre
    My local dealer would not realign my 96 318ti EWS with my S52 ECU. "Too old. Not stock." I asked what they would do if I brought in my 2002. "We wouldn't. None of my tech know what a carburetor is." It is rare for a dealer tech to be familiar with a 2002.
  11. Pierre
    Final payment is always after the car is DONE. Depending on the project, it's 1/3 up front, 1/3 when the car is prepped and ready for paint, and 1/3 upon delivery. If the prep inspection is not to your satisfaction, you may ask to have it corrected. The second payment should only be made upon the approval of the prep work. The same applies to the final payment. You only pay when the car is done to your satisfaction as per the original agreement. If not, the repairs should be made and payment submitted upon final approval and delivery.
  12. Pierre
    shermanmartinez@hotmail.com
  13. Pierre
    Some work is generic. Oil change, brake pads and rotors, filters, coolant flush, radiator, water pump, alternator, starter, even suspension work, I would entrust any competent mechanic to do that type of work. Some stuff is more specific. Engine building, head work, engine tuning, (especially tii) suspension mods, electrical troubleshooting, body panel adjustments would be more suited for an expert in out cars. When going to a non-BMW guy, their choice of parts may be an issue. Brake pads and rotors, alternators, water pumps, coolant, brake fluid and so on can be quality or junk. Usually, a BMW shop would know better about parts brands, what to use and what to keep away from.
  14. Pierre
    That's Gordon's (G-Man) former car. I am in the middle of helping Brian with his E12 automatic to 5-speed conversion. Not something you do over a week-end. And we had a complete parts car. Meanwhile, my 76 533i is getting the rustoleum with a roller treatment. (Detrim and Euro bumper conversion too along with a bunch of other work.) Read the story and see more pictures of Gordon former car here. http://www.firstfives.org/carmonth/may2009.html
  15. Pierre
    You get what you pay for. What prep will you do? If you are only disassembling, and want the paint stripped to bare metal, and you want good work, the $3500 is a minimum. If someone offers you the job for $1500, prepare to be disappointed.
  16. Pierre
    There is a strong draw to blame the distributor since the problem started when the distributor was swapped. But I will blame the ignition switch. I suspect that the switch is shorting out internally and keeping the contact live, or at least a smidgen of a contact, just enough to make it run on (not diesel) for a few seconds longer. I also suspect that the switch has not developed this problem coincidentally when the distributor was replaced. The problem was there all along. But the new distributor is now producing a stronger spark, precise timing, and the little short in the past in now enough to keep the ignition system alive. Let us know what you find.
  17. Pierre
    To clarify. You turn the ignition off, but nothing happens. The car keeps idling normally... then a little time later (15-20 seconds,) it turns off. It's like a delayed reaction... mesh keda?
  18. Pierre
    The spinning ignition key syndrome. Typical E36 failure. You will need to replace the ignition lock and the lock housing. Not an easy job and not cheap either. I had to do it on my 97 M3. Now my 96 ti is doing the same. The ignition lock is a dealer only item. It is made for your key based on the VIN. I think I paid $100 at Center BMW in Van Nuys. The ignition lock housing was another $150 or so. I forgot where I got it from. Installation is a little tricky. There are a few youtube videos online to see. You have to loosen the shear security bolts. (Chisel and hammer) I replaced mine with regular allen head bolts. Don't delay. One day, the ignition won't work at all. You will get stuck with the engine running and the ignition locked. At that point, removal becomes a lot more difficult. Nice score though. Cheers.
  19. Pierre
    Beyond the obvious nose panel and tail piece... the big bumpers. Mounting this on an early car is not a simple affair. How about the bubble turn signals? Or the later mirror?and it still has the spacer between the body and the front strut. It would not scare me to buy it but I would find out what the original VIN was, and run it through DMV.
  20. Pierre
    Very cool. Details please.
  21. Pierre
    Stock engine? Go with the stock manifolds. Using headers has no benefit unless you modify the engine. (Hi comp, cam, port work etc) Otherwise, avoid the aggravation and save your money.
  22. Pierre
    E12 brake MCs are all the same regardless of year. (part # 34311120832) They are also the same as the MCs on Bavs, early E24s and coupes. On the E12s, the front calipers are the same as the tii which are very close to the Volvo. (4 piston, 2-lines each.) The later E12s have a spacer between the two halves of the calipers to accomodate a vented disk. The difference is in the rears since the E12 has rear discs and the 2002 does not. I am currently installing all that on my 69. (tii struts, vented E12 calipers, vented rotors, E21 rear drums and E12 master.) It should be an improvement.
  23. Pierre
    Maybe not exactly what you were looking for but it may help with your decision.
  24. Pierre
    E21 LSDs are getting rare and pricey. A 3.64 can fetch over $600.
  25. Pierre
    At the last Bay area 2002 show, a guy had a bunch of parts, too good to throw away but not good enough to hold on to and not worth the hassle to sell. So he laid them up in the parking lot, put a sign saying basically: Take what you want, pay what you think is fair. For some things, free is fair. And he left a jar. At the end of the day, it was all gone and there was cash in the jar. Win win.
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