Pierre

Typically, a car that won't idle is caused by a clogged idle jet in the carb. Take the jet out, blow through it to make sure it's clear and see what happens. Strap your battery down. It's dangerous. The positive terminal may be touching the body causing a short, which can cause an intermittent electrical failure, thus the stalling. It can also cause a fire. I would tend to this issue immediately.

The E30 Bentley manual is awesome and an absolute necessity for any DIYer with an E30... but it does not cover the M42. (or the S14.) So if you have an M42 E30, like I do, you need two manuals. The E30 Bentley and the E36 Bentley. And of course, the E36 M42 is not exactly the same as the E30 M42. The induction is different and the E36 has a knock sensor. But most of it is the same.

I will assume this is an M20 setup, and the car did not start. The pump will not activate until you move the key to the start position. The trigger is the flap door in the AFM. To test the pump, you could use the instructions in the Bentley Manual for the M20. (They bypass the relay with a jumper wire) Or, of you remove the air box and reach in and move the flap door in the AFM. If everything is working correctly, the pump will turn on. If it does not work, you need to check if you are getting voltage to the pump. Apply 12 volts to the pump terminals to check if the pump itself works. Then work backwards from there. A common problem is the fuel pump relay. You need to provide a lot more details about your build, what you have done so far, so that we can guide you in the right direction. Was the engine running when it came out of the donor car? What did you do to it? Pictures will help too. And finally, here is a pet peeve of mine. What is your name?

Andrew, And I thought we were going to have a little fun "driving" tomorrow. But that's all good. I won't make the drive either but will see you all at the open house.

1969 2002 rescued from a tow yard back in 95 on its way to 2002AD to be parted and crushed. Originally Sahara, painted Malaga in its previous life. Currently Pastelblau. Stock M20 325i motor with 265 Getrag. Highway 33 run with Andrew and his Sienna M20. (Ventura County, So Cal)

Are you sure the late 83 320i Getrag 240 fits behind the M20? The E21 323i transmission is very rare and hard to find. (Read expensive.) Most of them are also worn out and need rebuilding. (More expensive.) You may want to consider a 325i 5 speed instead.

Andrew, I am not sure if driving like a crazy man is a compliment, but I can say that the Glendora road run or the Mulholland cruise are fairly tame. I think they are designed to be tame.) They start at 9:00 AM. I recommend a highway 33 drive. We start at 6:30, drive 200 miles of SERIOUS and deserted roads and we are having breakfast by 10:00. But I'll be there on the 10th with my M20 2002. Glad to hear you will be joining the parade. Good people, leisurely cruise and end up at your shop for some good conversation and some good grub. Can't miss it.

Who makes the best air dam???? I do, of course. http://www.probimmer.com/Pierre/kamei_repro_spoiler.htm Seriously though, it looks like you have the same air dam I make. The link you posted is the Ireland unit. It's plastic. In fact I have one on my tii. If in fact you have the Kamei copy, then you don't need a front bumper. The ireland air dam needs a bumper. (I know you can run it without a bumper but it does not look right.) Nothing will survive a racoon hit with no damage. The one I make has a reinforced mesh embedded in the fiberglass along the top edge and the bottom edge to prevent the air dam from shattering in case you do hit something. The picture you posted seem to suggest that you should repair yours.

The bottom hose should be much hotter than the top hose. It's hard to tell by feel since hot is just HOT and it's hard to tell between hot and very hot. The temp going into the rad should be under 220 and coming out should be significantly less, like 140. An air bubble would definitely cause havoc in the cooing system. But I would not overlook the gauge. Different driving styles should make a difference in the way the gauge reacts. Make sure you wired your gauge to the correct sensor and that your grounding is solid.

I cannot explain why it worked for me and not for others. I just think that there aren't that many auto 2002 that were converted to M20s with a 265.. I suggest you try it yourself. It's a tedious job to get the drivetrain under the car and seeing where you have contact, then move it out of the way, hammer away and try again. If you were closer by, I would have you take a look at mine, or I can take close up pictures underneath and send them to you lf that would help.

And now I will comment on the link you referred to. In the first paragraph, <snip> I also supply conversion parts like motor mounts(currently) and hopefully soon a tranny mount <snip>

I can only tell you about what I did with my swap. I will not argue/comment on how others did theirs. I can not see how the engine brackets from a 2002 would bolt up to an M20 motor or how how an M20 bracket will line up with a 2002 mount and still maintain the native angle of the engine? If it was that easy and straightforward, why is anyone fabricating mounts for the conversion? If the M20 driveshaft fits perfectly between the output flange of the transmission and the input flange of the diff, and if the tail end of the shaft actually matches the bolt pattern of the 2002 (or E21) diff, (I think not) I can guarantee you the the center bearing location WILL NOT MATCH. You will need to weld mounts on the body for your center bearing to attach to. And if the assumption is that the front half of the 325i shaft can be mated to the rear half of a 2002 shaft... all I can say is, try it and let us know how it turns out. The reality is that you will need a 325i and a 2002 driveshaft. They will both need to be cut, welded and balanced to make a hybrid that will fit in your car. Your assumptions of the shift linkage are incorrect. The native angle is referring to the rotation of the engine in the car, not it's position forward and back. The native rotation means that the shift linkage will end up under the shift lever hole, as opposed to being on the left or right of it. But it ends up being further back and need to be shortened.

We need more details. Did you install all the coolant hoses just like they were in the original car? Is your coolant overflow tank at or above the top of the radiator? Do you have the mechanical fan? First, you have to see if coolant is flowing through the radiator. A great tool would be an infrared thermometer. They are getting pretty cheap. (around $30 at Harbor Freight.) If you are in fact getting coolant through the radiator and it shows to be very hot, you can then compare the temp in and temp out of the radiator to see if it's actually effectively doing any cooling. You could then determine if the engine is just producing way too much heat, or if the cooling system is not doing appropriate cooling or if you have a gauge issue. How fast is the temp rising? Is the gauge bouncing around? What kind of driving are you doing? How does it respond to different types of driving? Highway cruising, around town, redlining on the track when is 110 outside? Is the fan going on? At what temp? Or is it manual? Does the temp drop when the fan kicks in? Is this a stock M20? Is it a B25 or B27? If it's a B25, do you have an oil cooler?

I have an M20 with a 265 tranny out of an 87 325is in my 69 2002 automatic. No cutting of the tunnel.firewall was needed. I used a sledge hammer. I also had to hit the firewall to allow the valve cover to come off the head. And I cut out an opening in the fire wall to access the coolant hose at the back of the head. It's very tight back there. You do not need custom motor mounts if you are talking about the "rubber" part. But you do need to fab brackets that will bolt to the engine and adapt to the motor mount. The shifter rod and shift platform will need to be cut, shortened and welded in order to line up with the hole in the tunnel. That procedure should be done after the engine is in its final location. I installed a VDO speedo and pulse sensor to read from the allen bolt heads on the diff axle output side. While the speedo face does not match the rest of the cluster, it works and I don't really mind. There are other options to make your original speedo work which would take the pulse signal and convert it to a cable drive. The cost is similar. Or you can try to find an E21 323i tranny with a cable drive. They are very expensive if you can find one and in most cases, it does not read correctly unless you have the same diff ratio and tire size as the 323i it came out of. The pulse sensor method is adjustable.

Installing an E30 diff on a 2002 is not a simple bolt on. It's not even an easy weld on either. 2002haus makes a rear subframe for the 2002 that will take an E30 diff. Of course, you also need to make a driveshaft and axle shafts to fit. Welded diffs are difficult to drive on the street. Turning becomes a chore especially in a car with no power steering. Welded diffs work well on the track. The bigger problem with welded diffs is the stress it creates on the axle shafts. Those are prone to fail on track cars. In fact, racers get them regularly magnafluxed to check for cracks since a failure can have disastrous consequences. Get an LSD. Build it to a higher lockup setting. There are many gear ratios available from E30 small case diffs (and E36 ti and Z3) that will fit the E21 LSD case that will bolt up to a 2002. I have a 4.44 diff off my 96 318ti automatic that was converted to an S52.

As mentioned above, the Hella 500 do not need an upgraded alternator but there are a couple of assumptions. The Hella lights use a 55 or 60W bulb. The low beams should be running 55W. Those two together are fine. (total: 220-230W) But if you replace the bulbs with 100W, (total is now 400W) and you have a 500W amp blasting, and you are going down the road in rain at night, with wipers on, lights blazing and the fan on full speed, your poor alternator will complain. And of course, use relays. And I have a pull switch off an E21. It will fit but the knob will not match. The 2002 has a silver center and the E21 is all black. You will need the matching knob which you most likely have on your car anyway. They just screw right off and on. $10 for the switch if you get the brackets. Cheers.

Here is an option. (shameless plug) http://www.probimmer.com/Pierre/2002_auxilliary_lamp_brackets.htm

Those are called turbines. They were installed on e21s (as John said) They are not worth much really, unless they are very clean and nice and you put them on a daily driver with 185-70-13 all season tires. ($100 at most for a nice set) I also gave away a set in better condition that those pictured, and still have 2 more sets.) People will tell you they are the wrong offset on a 2002. It is true that with 205-60-13. they may rub on the outside on a lowered car that that have not had their fender lip folded over (205 is too wide for a 5.5 inch wheel anyway) but with 185-70-13 tires, they are actually perfect. And that is why many people use them on 2002s, as long as you don't need very sticky tires.

The new smog laws do not affect 2002s. They affect 1999 and newer cars.

Some points to ponder. 1. NO ONE will post the name of a smog station that will "play ball" on the internet. 2. $300 is not unreasonable to get your car to pass. The stakes are too high for any shop to take that type of risk. And you are paying what you originally saved by buying a 76. That is why they are so cheap in California. As the mantra goes: Pay now or pay later. You could have bought a 75 instead. (I have a 76 530i myself so I know what you are going through.) 3. You can smog your 76 legally in California. What mods have you done to your car that would cause it not to pass? In most cases, installing a cat fixes most issues. Furthermore, if you have a car in California with limited use (classic) insurance, you can qualify for a "limited" smog test consisting of a sniffer test and no visual. Most 2002s fail the visual unless you have dual sidedrafts. high compression and a monster cam. Check the DMV website for the details.

The hypothetical question is polarizing. And it needs not be. The attraction to the 2002 is its ability to be so many things to so many people. It can be a show car restored to total originality. It can be a drag racer, a canyon carver, a daily driver, a Sunday cruiser and everything in between. For $30K, for a car that can perform track duty and still be a daily driver, I would build an M2 or an M20 (about 200 hp injected) on a squarie, (with big bumpers) sunroof, 5 speed, AC, nice paint job, ($5K is plenty) stage 2 coilover suspension, 15 inch wheels. Make if Golf yellow, mintgrun or Pastelblau.

I reproduce the "through the grille" brackets in stainless steel. I make them in 2 sizes. $40 a pair + $6 shipping in the US. Here is a link with pictures and mounting instructions. http://www.probimmer.com/Pierre/2002_auxilliary_lamp_brackets.htm Cheers.

SOCAL. Email me for more details. Cheers.

I tried to put a list together a few years ago. I had 90+ cars. (there were over 15 2002s.) Here is a list of a few interesting cars. (In no particular order.) 1969 Mercury Cougar 1983 320 Euro. (6 cyl carb) 1979 323i Euro (current.) (I ahve owned 6 E21s) 1974 tii with Euro bumper conversion 1977 525 Euro (carbureted) (I have owned 6 E12s) 1996 318ti with S52 (current) 1969 2002 with M20 (current) 1981 Benz 300D non-turbo. 1992 Chevy Astro van. 1974 Chevy Camaro. 1994 Chevy Suburban. 1989 Acura Integra 1981 Nissan 280ZX (Qty 2) 1989 Isuzu pickup 1981 Honda CB750F 2002 BMW R1150 RT 1991 318is (current)

The Memorial Run is on Saturday May 25th. Meet at 6:00. Same place. Leave at 6:30. SHARP!!! We'll do the long loop from Ojai up the 33 to the 166 back to Frazier Park, through Lockwood Valley and back to Ojai. It's about 200 miles. You can cruise and enjoy the beautiful road and the spectacular scenery or carve the twisties to your heart's content. LOTS OF TWISTIES, ALL KINDS OF TWISTIES. (Your tires should be newer than 1995) Bring your 2002 or anything you want, On the tax run, we had 3 2002s with M20s. Bring your other Bimmer or not, new or Vintage, stock or modified, beauties or beaters. Beamers are welcome too. Or non-beamers on two wheels. Maybe Dan will bring his El Camino. Email me at bimmerfan02@hotmail.com for more details.