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Signal flasher upgrade easy to do & what a difference


02hobiedave

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Good research in this thread. Quick question about the EL13 for those who have installed them. How loud is the click? There's something nice and mechanical about the original relay that I'd like to keep. Modern cars sound more muted to my ear. 

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1973 BMW 2002 (Verona)

1975 BMW R90S (Silver Smoke)

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Somehow I'm still not getting it to work right. The PO changed out the front lights for led.

My dash indicator doesn't work with the original flasher but otherwise all my lights work as expected, except when I have my front lights on. When they are on - the front signal fails to blink, the back do blink normally.

I tried changing out the flasher for two different ones so far, both with XPL tabs. With the flasher they work the same as with the original flasher but the dash indicator is constantly blinking and the click is always on.

I cleaned out my signal lights and mechanism, drilled a new ground to connect to the lights, and checked that the bulbs have two connection spots.

At this point, I'm considering getting new LED lights vs going back to incandescent but thought I'd get some advice from the forum.

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Make sure the the PO put in the resistor parallel to the line or you will get to the  or you will get hyper flashing or perhaps some other problems
 
Could you clarify which resistor you are referring to? Any reason why it doesn't flash when the front lights are on?
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LED lamps do not draw any where near the current as traditional incandescence lamps.  Typical flashers expect to see some "resistance/load" from the lamps to sense that they are still there or they have burnt out.  So, a load resistor is needed in parallel with the LED lamp to fool the flasher into sensing the LED lamp.  An example is this:  https://www.amazon.com/Resistors-Signal-License-Warning-Cancellor/dp/B004EDF8HY 

 

If you install the load resistors, be aware that they get very hot.  Make sure to mount them to metal or something to provide heat sinking.  Or, use a more modern flasher designed to work with LED lamps.

  

Edited by Tsingtao_1903
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I'll definitely consider that, the weird thing is that it did hyperflashing with the "modern" relay and actually worked somewhat normally with the original relay.  I'm going to see what happens with other bulbs before getting the resistors.

 

Edit:  figured out my issue - the PO had installed the bulb in the wrong direction - hence initially only one side wasn't working. When I took it all apart and reinstalled, I had switched the wires.  Just got to fix the dash light now.

Edited by mataku527
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  • 1 month later...
On 10/25/2017 at 8:52 PM, Clint Carroll said:

Yep! 14c0820081ce14290ce77672c0653f73.jpg


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wondering where you sourced the 3 pronged black socket plug please . . . ? Thanks!

1970 Agave work in progress

Born on May 14 1970 and delivered May 19th 1970 to NYC to Hoffman Motor Corp. Agave code 071

new guy

help appreciated!

other cars: 1991 318is / 1999 540iT

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wondering where you sourced the 3 pronged black socket plug please . . . ? Thanks!

Sure thing - It’s actually a headlight socket that I sourced from NAPA as well; I don’t recall the part number (and my car is in California while I’m in Virginia) but I’d think trial and error at NAPA would get you to the right one.


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  • 3 weeks later...

Just a small update, the Napa Flasher EL13L1 is compatible with both LEDs and incandescent bulbs, no need for resistors when converting to LED turn signal bulbs.  It does require grounding.

 

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NF_EL13L1

 

Same as this:

https://www.amazon.com/CEC-Industries-EF33RL-Flasher-Compatible/dp/B00JXLHE8S/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1516832157&sr=1-1&keywords=el13l1

 

Pigtail:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00O3H4DP4/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A3JJJJEKUDKNY9&psc=1

 

FAQ about Flasher Relays:

http://www.memotronics.com/led-flashers/

 

 

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On 1/8/2018 at 10:40 AM, jdt10768 said:

wondering where you sourced the 3 pronged black socket plug please . . . ? Thanks!

FYI, you can also use the existing connector, just need to pop the terminals out and swap them around to the right positions to hook up to the new flasher, but the physical dimensions are the same (at least for squaries, not sure about roundies).

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