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About grotflo

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  1. Looking for a good transmission for my ‘73. Most important are quiet synchros and bearings, no grinding or crunching, and preferably no leaks. Shipping to 30315. Thanks, Garrett
  2. Wondering if anyone else has had this problem. I've got a stock 4-speed with a pretty new clutch and T/O bearing. When I start the car, it sounds normal, but as the engine and tranny warm up after a few minutes of driving, it makes a rattling noise from what I think is the front of the transmission. Almost like metal balls inside a metal container. When I accelerate, it seems to get mostly quiet (or maybe it's being drowned out by the engine noise). Then when I decelerate (in any gear) between 3500-2000 RPM it makes a loud metallic growling noise. I jacked up the rear and tried to recreate the sound, but it didn't work. It must need the load of slowing down on the driveline. It's only been making this noise for a few weeks. Transmission mount is good, giubo (guibo?) is good, diff and tranny both have fluid, car shifts fine. Other than the noise, all seems to be in order. The only thing I can think of is that several months ago, I swapped in a Wallothnesch upgraded radiator, which is slightly thicker. To get enough clearance for the fan, I pushed the engine and tranny back as far as I could, maybe an additional 1/4". I've read you need to push the diff toward the front of that car, otherwise it will make weird noises, but is it possible to be under too much compression? Or is it just an internal issue with the transmission?
  3. As usual, the FAQ nailed it. Turns out it was nothing more than a loose ground to the engine block. Cleaned it up, tightened up the bolt, and all is good. Sometimes the simplest causes are the most easily overlooked, at least by me. I was going down the mental rabbit hole of bad starter, bad ignition switch, etc. Thanks again for all your advice!
  4. Good question. I don't remember. I'll also check that this evening. But from memory, I don't believe it has an additional grounding point. It has the + to the right post and the - spade connector to the bottom terminal. Is there an additional way to ground it that I missed?
  5. Thanks for the help everyone! I took a quick look again this morning and the + wire from the battery is looking pretty rough, certainly not all the strands are intact. I'm going to swap in a new cable this evening and report back. Fingers crossed it's a two minute fix. Those are the best. Ray gets the award for most accurate assessment of the problem.
  6. Here’s the backstory. This morning, my starter turned over a bit slower than normal, but it started just fine. It’s a Chinese M3 starter clone from eBay. I was leaving work this evening, and it turned over slowly for about a second, then stopped. I thought that maybe it was the battery, so I bought a new one to test. Starter still won’t turn over, although it did make a weird, subtle thump from somewhere the first time I tried. Now the solenoid won’t even click, nothing. Here’s the weird part. My dome light takes about 5 seconds to fade on, but when I turn the key to the on position (not even the start position), the dome light immediately turns off. The gauge cluster lights don’t work now either. What could be the problem? Fuses are all intact, don’t see any loose wires, noting at first glance seems off. The (brand new) battery has 12.6V when the car is off, so I’m assuming that’s not the issue. It’s like the voltage from the battery isn’t getting to the rest of the car.
  7. If they are indeed compatible, I wonder why the outer diameter is so far off then. As the Tire Rack chart shows, the 6.4 tire is 25.2" in diameter. That's considerably larger than the 165 tire, which is 23.4". That would seem to make a big difference to the speedo.
  8. I see that the overall diameter is almost 2" larger on the 6.4 tire (25.2" vs 23.4"). So it's a no go. The width looks good though. I'll keep looking around for alternatives. Thanks for the help!
  9. I love the look of Vredestein Sprint Classics, but I can't seem to find them in 165HR13 anywhere. However, Tire Rack carries them in 6.40SR13. Will these fit the stock 4.5" steelies? Will they throw off the speedo reading?
  10. What are you looking to get for that? Depending on the price, I may still look for a nicer part.
  11. Looking for a clean "Fasten Seatbelt' sign for the dash. Don't need the mount (the part that's screwed to the dash), just the top cover part. But happy to purchase both if need be. Shipping to 30315.
  12. That’s helpful to know, thanks! Your car looks super clean btw, nice job.
  13. The center exhaust/resonator on my ‘73 (non-tii) is rattling, so I ordered a replacement. I got a genuine BMW part number 18121245265. The exhaust on my car has a long, thin resonator like this: But the replacement part I received is shorter and fatter. Weirdly, the part number painted on is correct. Did I get the wrong part? Does it matter that it looks different? Here’s what I received:
  14. Anybody have an extra center cap for a Rota wheel? Doesn’t need the BMW roundel, but needs to be the same color silver. See attached photo for what I’m looking for.
  15. Yeah, the cover plate has to be removed when the A/C is on. In an attempt to run it with the cover plate installed, I tried some flexible vent hose to route the air to other places, but it restricted flow too much. Actually if you look closely at the first photo, you'll notice that the fasten seatbelt sign is missing the plastic panel in the center. I routed a vent hose up through the dash to the bottom of that, and used it as an air vent. It worked okay, but again, not worth losing that much air flow. With the amount of glass in an '02, it heats up inside pretty quickly, so the more cooling I can get, the better. I'm using a Sanden 508 clone, a 10x18 condenser, and a 10" fan up front. I think that's the biggest condenser I could fit without modifying the hood supports, and it was a tight fit at that.

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