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About grotflo

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  1. Anybody have an extra center cap for a Rota wheel? Doesn’t need the BMW roundel, but needs to be the same color silver. See attached photo for what I’m looking for.
  2. Yeah, the cover plate has to be removed when the A/C is on. In an attempt to run it with the cover plate installed, I tried some flexible vent hose to route the air to other places, but it restricted flow too much. Actually if you look closely at the first photo, you'll notice that the fasten seatbelt sign is missing the plastic panel in the center. I routed a vent hose up through the dash to the bottom of that, and used it as an air vent. It worked okay, but again, not worth losing that much air flow. With the amount of glass in an '02, it heats up inside pretty quickly, so the more cooling I can get, the better. I'm using a Sanden 508 clone, a 10x18 condenser, and a 10" fan up front. I think that's the biggest condenser I could fit without modifying the hood supports, and it was a tight fit at that.
  3. Great idea! I wasn't sure what those were called or how to find them. I'll have to do some research.
  4. Here's how I installed the Mini Kooler unit where the glovebox used to be. Hope it answers a few questions. https://www.bmw2002faq.com/forums/topic/242366-stealth-ac-install/
  5. For those of you looking for alternatives to Behr and Frigiking evaporators (and especially if you want a keep the stock center console), I present this as an option. I don't know if I'm the first person to install this, but it certainly hasn't been documented on the FAQ yet. Here's what it looks like installed in my car. Now onto the details. Here's the evaporator/blower unit I used. It's small and has pretty good air output. I haven't actually compared its cooling abilities to a Behr or Frigiking unit, but it makes Atlanta summers much more bearable. The installation is fairly straightforward. My car came to me with a non-working Frigiking unit, so it had holes in the firewall behind the center console. If I were starting from scratch, I would have moved the holes over to the passenger side a bit, but it still works just fine as is. Here are the basic steps to install this: 1) Remove glovebox. You won't need the glovebox tray or latch, but you will need to keep the padded front cover plate. 2) Lift up the dash to expose the sheet metal frame below. The top of the A/C unit has two threaded rods that are used for mounting. Position the unit where you want it and then mark the two hole locations on the underside of the sheetmetal. My recommendation is to position it as close to the firewall as possible so that you leave enough clearance for the cover plate to be reinstalled. 3) Drill the two holes. I have a two piece dash, and the holes ended up just behind where the bottom piece ends. 4) Put foam rubber strips on the top of the A/C unit to prevent any rattling. Because it's mounted directly to the sheet metal, leaving it un-cushioned would probably lead to lots of rattles and buzzing. 5) Two mounting points aren't sufficient to hold it securely, so I bent some aluminum bar stock and drilled holes in the end. I then attached one end to the back of the A/C unit and the other end to the sheet metal. 6) Next you'll need to drill a hole in the firewall for the drain tube. In my opinion, the single small drain tube can't keep up with the amount of condensation this produces - after extended use, I can hear water sloshing around in there. It's a problem when the unit is mounted flat (parallel to the road). To help it drain more easily, the unit needs to be tilted a few degrees so that the drain hole is at the lowest point. I did this by bending the aluminum bar stock at the back. 7) At this point, you can hook up the A/C lines and wire it up. If I were to do it again, after I got the unit dry fit, I would remove it to put on the lines. They're hard to access once this thing is in place. A note on the fan switch: My car had a manual choke that was useless after I changed carbs, so I used that hole next to the steering wheel to mount the switch. Looks stock. 8) After you've tested everything, you can reinstall the dash. 9) The final step is to modify the padded cover panel you removed from the glovebox. The construction of that part is interesting. There's a sheet metal internal frame surrounded by foam, then skinned with vinyl. I had to cut both the foam and the metal frame (from the inside) to get it to fit over the A/C unit. This step took a lot of time and test fitting, but once done, it looks mostly stock. I bent some steel brackets and attached some magnets to them, then screwed those into the metal frame. I couldn't get a good photo, but the brackets slide into the sheet metal frame under the dash. To install the cover plate, you kind of lift it up into position, then pull toward the rear of the car. It wedges into place nicely, and is very secure. That's pretty much it! I'll add some more photos of the completed install so you get a better idea of how the parts fit with the defrost hose and center console. To direct air to the driver side, I added some flexible hose and angled them. Not a good long term solution, but it works for now. I would love to create some sort of angled flap system in the three outlets. Hope this helps inspire others to come up with their own solutions! I'm happy to answer any questions, or take more photos.
  6. I put that Mini Cooler in my car. My goal was to have a completely stock-looking interior with A/C, so I put it where the glovebox used to be. This thread shows a few photos from the installation: https://www.bmw2002faq.com/forums/topic/207183-interesting-compact-aircon-system/?do=findComment&comment=1249391 I ditched the actual glovebox, but kept the cover panel, which is held on with some brackets and magnets. When I want to use A/C, I just remove the panel to expose the blower. Happy to share more photos if you want. I should probably make a new thread in case someone else wants to try it too. Here's what it looks like with the cover panel installed.
  7. Hmm, I'm not entirely sure. Georgia doesn't require a title for 1985 and older cars, but it's never a bad idea to get one. According the the DMV website, that t-22 form is required when you are registering a vehicle without a title. If you already have a title, the process is much easier.
  8. I never had to fill out the t-22 form for either of my cars. I can't remember why they have the form on the required list. Maybe if you don't have a title? Just be ready to explain to the office that 2002 is the model, not the year. They're confused every time
  9. PM sent about rear wheel bearings and seals. Thanks, Garrett
  10. Congrats on your new purchase. I had a '75 for a few years before I traded it in for a Roundie. Is the garage you're talking about OLOBA Rennsport? I have a friend with an E30 who just joined there. I think it's like $100/month and they have air tools and two lifts. I work on my car when I can, but with a young baby at home, it's tough to find time these days. I'd be happy to meet sometime and see if I can give any pointers. I'm no expert, but I've done a bunch of projects on my cars so I may be able to share some knowledge. Garrett
  11. Hey Mike, glad to hear there's another Atlanta-area 2002 owner. I'm in Grant Park and I own a '73. What year is yours? Garrett
  12. Thanks Steven! I found that thread you mentioned. I must have glossed over it before I posted this.
  13. Perfect, thanks! Although it seems that bracket is NLA. I'll have to find a used one here on the forums.
  14. Does anyone know the part number(s) for the 1973-only rear bumper brackets? I think the earlier, shorter brackets are part number 51125470060, but I can't find the longer versions. And my memory may be hazy, but do '73s also have some sort of cover for the longer bracket? My car is a '73 but has the shorter early brackets that I'd like to swap. Garrett
  15. Intake manifold, distributor, and coil still for sale. Prices are negotiable.
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