Early Lower Timing Cover Pointer Hack Needed

[MurphinDC]

I'm rebuilding an early 1969 M10 and the timing cover that came with it is lacking the pointer (see below).  Has anyone come up with a hack to add a pointer.  I notice the back of the cover has somewhat of a bung, but I'm reluctant to drill through it to add a pointer.  Any thoughts on a solution?

[Mark92131]

WTB ad for a timing cover with a pointer?  Correctly marked and painted flywheel?  I've got nothing!

 

Mark92131

[tech71]

Yep, must be some of those covers floating around.

I have at least two.

Just but one somewhere

Edited March 5 by tech71

[MurphinDC]

I'm cheap and my cover has already been decked to match the block.  I haven't bought the new flywheel yet so that may be an option.  I new used cover is an option, but....$

 

Murph

[Son of Marty]

The problem is BMW over the years used several different locations for the timing pointer and you will need a matching pully or at least remark your pully when the engine is at TDC or as above just time it off the flywheel.

[tech71]

7 minutes ago, Son of Marty said:

or as above just time it off the flywheel.

With a battery sittin there it’s not that easy to get a clean line of sight on that pin/ pulley anyway

Edited March 5 by tech71

[MurphinDC]

Battery is in the trunk so that's not an issue, but I do agree getting a line of sight on my current engine that has the pointer is PITA.  I was planning to use the front pointer for when I degree the CAM in addition to my gauge.  Flywheel may be the best way to go or just rely on my wire I'm using to set TDC.

 

Thanks 

Murph

[TobyB]

I've always made a pointer that hangs off one of the unused mounting bosses and indicates TDC 

of whatever front crank pulley I'm using.  Or whatever degree marking that's the most useful.

 

I seem to remember a piece of aluminum angle can be cut to work, but this was all done before your

RFID tracker was also your camera, so I'll have to go take a picture of it tomorrow.

 

t

 

[Mike Self]

Per your first picture:  if the pointer goes into the blind hole at the 5 o'clock position relative to the crankshaft hole (and connected by a rib), I'll wager that's a 6mm hole.  It would be easy enough to tap the hole for a 6x1 mm thread, then take a bolt or machine screw of appropriate length, cut the head off and grind the end to a point (chuck it into an electric drill and go after it with a file).  Thread it into the hole with some locktite and your problem is solved.  

 

Threading is probably a better solution than trying to press a rod into the hole, as too much pressure might split your casting.

 

mike

[MurphinDC]

@Mike Self Thanks Mike!  I like this solution.  I'll look into this and see what is entailed.