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Leaking gas tank


03to02

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Hello,

Car I just bought has a gas tank leak that appears to be coming from the seam joint.  it looks like JB weld was used to repair the seam.  The inside of tank had been red coated/sealed by PO.  The rest of the tank looks fine other than it’s caved in below the suspect area.  Is this tank salvageable or should I just buy a new one?  Thought about wire wheeling the jb welded area to investigate more but concerned of sparks (I plan on washing/rinsing inside with soap and letting tank dry first).  Draining the gas from tank was no fun so I want to get this right the first time. TIA.

JC

 

 

 

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Edited by 03to02
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Seam was peeled apart to try to locate the leak.  Seam leakage migrates along the outside of the seam and will appear at a point that is not the actual leak point.  Lining a tank to fix a leaking seam is difficult because the inner crevice can have rust that doesn't get removed from the lining preparation.

 

As others said, give up on this tank.

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A radiator shop is a good place to take a leak.

 

I have no idea what I'm doing but I know I'm really good at it.

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My original tank was full of pinholes.  MVP to the rescue!  Fitment was great.  Shop around for best price.

 

Mark92131

 

WWW.MVPVINTAGEPARTS.COM

Manufacturer of Vintage Car Parts,MVP,BMW2002,BMW,bmwclassiccars,bmwclassic,bmw2002classic,bmw02club,mvpvintageparts,recreate a legacy

 

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1970 BMW 1600 (Nevada)

 

 

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Yuuk! That tanks shot, get a replacement or box it up and send off to

WWW.GAS-TANK.COM

NO RUST gas tanks, no tank too old, lifetime warranty on the repair and restoration of old gas tanks classic or antique GASTANKS

A new MVP tank is the way I would go

Edited by tech71
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76 2002 Survivor

71 2002 Franzi

85 318i  Doris

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1 hour ago, 03to02 said:

Ok, I was leaning towards a new tank but just wanted to get a consensus here.

Thanks for all the quick replies!

JC

Generally observe the following key areas :

In case you did not know, there are a couple differences on the fuel tanks early round tail light car vs later square tail light cars...Tii injected/and carburated as well as trunk floor bolt hole locations and length of the fuel sender early 200 mm is for 46 liter early cars vs 223mm for 51 liter late cars. 

Looks like you have a very early tank 1st series.....the filler neck looks very short so look into that as the mid year cars have longer ones.

Edited by Mikesmalaga72
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The way that tank is stove in and the joining flange is boogered up as a result, I'd go for a good used tank (no rust around the flange) or new.   Just make sure the tank you buy (new or used) matches the rubber filler neck (early cars have long rubber necks, later ones--like your 72--have short ones).

 

Were it just a hole (like from road debris) a good radiator shop could solder it up  Mine was fixed with a copper penny soldered over the hole where a piece of sharp metal poked a hole in it on the interstate.  That was around 1983 or 84 and the tank's still on the car--no leaks.   But with the flange damage on yours...it would take a very skilled radiator guy to fix--and they're getting harder and harder to find.

 

mike

 

 

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'69 Nevada sunroof-Wolfgang-bought new
'73 Sahara sunroof-Ludwig-since '78
'91 Brillantrot 318is sunroof-Georg Friederich 
Fiat Topolini (Benito & Luigi), Renault 4CVs (Anatole, Lucky Pierre, Brigette) & Kermit, the Bugeye Sprite

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For once, I agree with everyone above-

that's been hacked, and not worth messing with.

 

Me, 'good used' would be fine, but I don't mind doing things

twice to save $400.

 

t

 

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"I learn best through painful, expensive experience, so I feel like I've gotten my money's worth." MattL

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