Weber 32/36 DGAV rebuild

[Polymerjohn]

Thanks for the help to get spark.

 

Now I am rebuilding my Weber 32/36 DGAV carburetor and it seems a bit over engineered to use a coolant line to heat the choke open when electric should work just fine like so many other vehicles.  Is this a thing to convert to electric and what are the pros/cons.  It seems to me the engine bay would benefit from a lack coolant lines to eventually leak.  I would like to just plug the coolant lines or use them for an extra heater core.

 

I found parts on Ebay that look like they would do the trick.  I rather go with new parts though...

 

Polymerjohn in OK

[Polymerjohn]

For what it's worth, I did search the forums here and found a lot of answers.  I am going to clean up my water choke and order the parts for an electric refit.

 

polymerjohn

['76mintgrün'02]

1 minute ago, Polymerjohn said:

For what it's worth, I did search the forums

 

That's wort a lot!  Nicely done.  

Tom

[2002#3]

Good timing on the post.  I'm in the middle of rebuilding a 32/36, also.  Second photo:  No wonder my water choke would come/break apart only after being abused with a vice and a pipe wrench.  Thus, the serendipitous timing of your post.

 

[Mike Self]

Three things to remember when rebuilding a 32/36: 

• make sure you keep all the primary and secondary barrel jets separate from each other; you really don't want to mix 'em up.  
• The spray nozzles (that bridge each carb throat) can be inserted backwards, which will produce no gas flow into that barrel.  
• make sure to clean out all the carb body's internal passages, especially those that lead from the main jets, and to the accelerator pump.

If you bought a rebuild kit, it should come with instrustions.  Check on the Board's search function for all sorts of instructions and tips on 32/36 carbs.

 

mike

[Polymerjohn]

My project for today:

 

I have ALL day to get it done.  Maybe she will run tomorrow!

 

John in OK

[MurphinDC]

This is a great set of videos showing the rebuild FWIW.

 

 

[billy g]

Regarding the type of choke, it seems water and electric each have their own pros and cons.  My preference would be a manual choke.

Edited December 28, 2022 by billy g

[Polymerjohn]

Got it done.

 

I was not happy to discover the the kit I purchased, though it had a new float, did not have new jets or screws (pilot jets).  I have rebuild many a four wheeler carb and jets are a given.  I cleaned up the ones I had.  Not a big deal because high on the list of parts is a TBI system.  Also high on the list it a Pertronix ignition.

 

I will install the unit tomorrow and give it a rip.

 

John in OK

 

P.S. - What is the hole by the "W" in Weber.  Peering down it, it looks important.  I was gonna put a plug in it.

 

[Stevenc22]

That might be the hole for the anti-deiseling valve which electrically kills the carb when the car shuts off to stop it from self running after turning off ignition.

['76mintgrün'02]

[John76]

I've always had the unused holes (on the Weber) plugged. 

Is that why my car doesn't go faster than 55mph??  Always thought it was a Reagan era California thing. 😩

 

 

 

[Polymerjohn]

IT LIVES!

 

Big smile on my face and one step closer to the road.  Thank youse guys for all the help on this.  The feeling of a job well done can be addicting.  Looks/sounds like I have an exhaust leak.  The next task for a road test is going to be the throttle and clutch "box".

 

Let me know if the iPhone movie doesn't play...

 

John in OK

 

[Mark92131]

That engine sounds happy, nice and smooth.  Now de-smog it to really free it up, unless you need the smog components in OK to register it.

 

Mark92131

[2002#3]

John,

Nice job.  Movie plays well.  

The engine will purrrr even more smoothly and have more power if you secure all fuel lines at both ends with good quality fuel line screw clamps...and it will be less likely to spring a fuel leak and catch fire.

Carry on...