High performance fuels / 'winter hibernation' fuel

[quant]

Does anybody have experience with 'purer fuels', such as high performance fuels, which can also be used for winter 'hibernation', because the fuel doesn't degrade (as much) ?

 

I have heard about e.g.

• VP Racing Fuels C10 (see e.g. https://vpracingfuels.com/product/c10/?c=500& , mentioned in e.g. Henry Catchpole's visit to the "London secret super car bunker": https://youtu.be/2X-FwJO1xZM?t=616 )
• Ecomaxx Classic Car Fuel (see e.g. https://www.ecomaxx.nl/productlijnen/classic-cars/ , claims to have a shelf life of over three years; one can use the browser translation function to get the website displayed in e.g. English)

 

And I'm sure there are others (which are also available in Europe).

 

Some questions I have, I hope this community has experience with:

 

• Is there really a difference between filling your tank with this fuel compared to 'regular' e.g. Shell V-Power 98 (RON 98) which also claims to be ethanol free or BP Ultimate (or ARAL Ultimate if you live in Germany) - if so, what are the differences; e.g. better starting after a 3-month 'hibernation', better performance, cleaner fuel system, .... ?

 

• When filling your car with such a 'purer fuel', is it still wise to add a 'fuel additive' for e.g. a lead replacer?
  When I fill my car up with e.g. Shell V-Power, I still always add Millers Oils VSPe Power Plus (see e.g. https://www.millersoils.co.uk/products/vspe-power-plus-multi-shot/ , said to be / claims to be: 1. octane booster, 2. lead replacement, 3. ethanol killer)

 

• To what extent do these 'purer fuels' (which I believe also claim to be more 'higher performance' type of fuels) really deliver more performance, or does that only work if you really tweak / adjust your fueling and ignition system? (e.g. optimise your carburetor jets, ignition timing, etc. to really work with this fuel)
  As - as a safety measure - I have set the carburetors/fueling and ignition up based on RON 95 fuel, even though I usually fill it up with RON 98 (e.g. Shell V-Power or BP Ultimate); but you cannot always get RON 98 fuel everywhere, e.g. when participating in international events

 

Looking forward to reading experiences and better understanding when such 'special fuels' make sense, and if anybody has experience with multiple brands/types of these fuels.

 

Edited December 4, 2022 by quant

[tech71]

43 minutes ago, quant said:

Does anybody have experience with 'purer fuels', such as high performance fuels, which can also be used for winter 'hibernation', because the fuel doesn't degrade (as much) ?

 you are requesting a lot of info, I have little experience with the high performance fuel grades available over there but I do have experience with Aviation fuel. 100LL (low lead) Judging by the way it would run in an M10 engine (or a 115HP outboard) I would classify it as high performance. It would stay fresh longer than Mo gas but still go bad if it sat for more than a year.

All gasoline goes stale and breaks down in time.

Winter fuel practices are simple, fill the tank fully with fresh fuel of your choice after adding some fuel stabilizer, 3, 4 months later at winters end you drive your car and burn up that fuel long before it begins to break down..

Ethanol free is always good.

Keeping the tank completely full reduces condensation/water build up.

 

Yes , when available I used 100 octane leaded fuel in my 02 and boat years ago, both loved the fuel.

But today I would not dream of burning leaded fuel, even if it was free.I was stupid, that shit is toxic.

 

Edited December 4, 2022 by tech71

[tzei]

I put just regular 98 full tank. It’s good to go when spring arrives. Never had an issue with that.

[dlacey]

I also use Stabil on cars that will be standing 6 months plus. It works.

Fuel has changed over the years, I have found that cars stored with unstabilised fuel develop internal corrosion in the fuel system...most prominent is the greenish 'fur' that blocks brass jets and valves in carburettors. 30+ years ago, cars that had lain in storage for years could be started with just a fresh battery...now the fuel system needs a good clean before there's any chance for the car to start.

 

Seems @quantis in UK given some of the terminology...there the base fuel is same independent of brand - it all comes from same local refinery in different parts of country , the only difference is the additive pack they throw in with it.

Also be aware that fuel is different between summer and winter, with more cheap low-boiling alkanes added in winter (because they are less likely to evaporate in winter).

 

Use Stabil.

[Hans]

What they said.

I store three cars every winter. Full tank of Shell ethanol free (most important), Stabil and methyl hydrade gas line anti freeze. Seems to work.

I don't know if m10 needs lead additive. I've not had valve problems, but I've read some cars do.

[tech71]

4 hours ago, Hans said:

I don't know if m10 needs lead additive

Lead substitute to be precise, no tetra ethyl  lead in there any more. 
Except for Av gas

[Hans]

Question is, does it need that? I've never gone big miles between valve jobs. I got the impression stock seats were hardened enough.

Edited December 5, 2022 by Hans
More

[jimk]

7 hours ago, Hans said:

Question is, does it need that? I've never gone big miles between valve jobs. I got the impression stock seats were hardened enough.

The machinist I used for several pieces of work, who did a lot of work on foreign cars, said BMW valves/seats weren't affected by unleaded gas.

[TobyB]

Ethanol free seems to be plenty good here.

 

t

 

[2002iii]

I have been told by multiple sources that lead in the fuel was for cast iron heads that didn't have hardened valve seats.

[kiva667]

I do not wish to be disrepectful to anyone,

but I don't overthink the issue of storing my car for a few months. Here is my complete process which always turns out fine:

 

1) fill car with alcohol-free gas / add stabil

2) disconnect battery

3) fill all orifices with dryer sheets

4) put the car cover on

5) make sure my bathing suit is packed

and grab a cab to the airport

 

And that's all she wrote!

 

[Hans]

Pump up the tires?

[tech71]

You mean you dont put it on blocks?

What? no battery maintainer?

What kind of dryer sheets? If you dont use Snuggle you are wasting your money.

Edited December 7, 2022 by tech71

[kiva667]

10 hours ago, Hans said:

Pump up the tires?

no need to so far 

10 hours ago, tech71 said:

You mean you dont put it on blocks?

What? no battery maintainer? What kind of dryer sheets? If you dont use Snuggle you are wasting your money.

 

No blocks required

 No battery maintainer (I've had the same autozone battery for many years and it's an energizer bunny)

I use generic Canadian dryer sheets that work great but I don't recall the brand name at the moment. And there are plenty of mice where I live.

 

EDIT: I use this procedure for 3-4 months, never longer.

 

 

Edited December 7, 2022 by kiva667

[tzei]

If i’d had a luxury to store with electricity available i’d damned if i wouldn’t invest sonic rodent repeller or two.