Barnfind in my own garage: Bringing a '73 Tii back to life

[JsnPpp]

9 hours ago, bergie33 said:

4 different sizes:

61131353661

61131353662

61131353663

61131353664

 

WN has a set:

Set of mounting plastic clamps for wiring 15 pieces various length

WWW.WALLOTHNESCH.COM

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Set of mounting plastic clamps for wiring 15 pieces various length

 

 

 

Thank you @bergie33!

[bergie33]

And here is the realoem screen (it's under vehicle electrical):

 

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=2233-USA-03-1974-114-BMW-2002tii&diagId=61_1123

 

 

[JsnPpp]

10 minutes ago, bergie33 said:

And here is the realoem screen (it's under vehicle electrical):

 

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=2233-USA-03-1974-114-BMW-2002tii&diagId=61_1123

 

 

Thanks for this. I was actually on that page but didn't recognize the clip because it was unfolded - my brain was looking for a loop! ha ha

 

Jason

[jgerock]

4 hours ago, JsnPpp said:

Thanks for this. I was actually on that page but didn't recognize the clip because it was unfolded - my brain was looking for a loop! ha ha

 

Jason

Some of these were white (opaque) and others black.  Believe the new ones are black.

[JsnPpp]

Lots of degreasing, nothing exciting to show just yet. I've been busy building parts list (which takes a longer time than I had planned). Next step is to bag and label all the nuts/bolts/screws in engine compartment, heat and remove the insulation in the wiper motor area, and then start cleaning metal + derusting + straightening.

 

I can rebuild suspension over holidays so I want to get the order in asap in case parts can get here in time..

 

 

[JsnPpp]

Some progress over week, but mostly building a parts list to send out in hopes delivered by holiday. This has taken hours to retrieve PN + scope availability. Lots of digressions while looking.

 

Question - anyone have part numbers for the rubber grommets for AC and wiring? I've been looking and see mostly reference to hardware stores but am hoping someone has something. 

 

I'm assuming the AC stuff will be the same. Worst case I measure diameter of hole and get generic. Figured I'd ask.

 

I'll post my full list once done, with PN.

 

Thanks in advance.

 

[JsnPpp]

Progress photos coming up later this weekend! We will likely drop the rear subframe, remove interior carpet and start cleaning engine bay "for reals".

 

Jason

[JsnPpp]

Some updates over the last few days. Slower than I'd like mostly due to the time it's taken to build a list of parts to order. Literally hours on multiple days. You know how it goes.

 

Started emptying the interior. Both seats are out now. One of the hardest parts of this is finding a place to store the parts.

 

 

Then started to work on removing the rubber/plastic from next to the heater box. The ones on this car are intact but peeling off and I want them out prior to painting. 

 

So I started heating the back side of it.

 

Then used a thin flexible spatula to start prying it out. Need to work slow AND make sure the spatula does not point out in case it cuts it.

 

Started peeling it off.

 

A bit on the front side but mostly from the back.

 

They both came out clean but I didn't take a photo, I'll add it in later.

 

Next started on rear subframe. Wheels.

 

22mm subframe nuts. 17mm bolts on the other side of the support bar.

 

17mm differential carrier bolt/nuts.

 

I see I had installed poly already. I've ordered new regardless.

 

I had dropped the frame a bit and then remembered that I had to remove the handbrake cables (requires 9mm) and the brake lines (11mm). Oops!

 

Removed the drum and disassembled the brakes to disconnect the handbrake cable.

 

The rear control arm bushings are toast.

 

Also had help bagging/labeling all the nuts/bolts in the engine compartment. 👍

 

Found that missing hood bolt! How long has THAT been there? Also, I don't recall what was tack welded to the nose clip.

 

So, it's progress. Not as much as needed but one step closer. I didn't drop the subframe yet, still need to do handbrake + brakeline on passenger side. Now that the parts are (mostly) ordered I can return focus on dissembly.

 

More soon!

 

 

 

[jgerock]

I wouldn’t worry about the AC grommets until later when you actually install the hoses.  Can’t recall if you will be using the smaller diameter reduced barrier hoses or the standard ones.  
 

I recall the headlight wiring grommets in my replacement 71 nose were different than the ones in my 69 nose.  Weird.

[JsnPpp]

5 hours ago, jgerock said:

I wouldn’t worry about the AC grommets until later when you actually install the hoses.  Can’t recall if you will be using the smaller diameter reduced barrier hoses or the standard ones.  
 

I recall the headlight wiring grommets in my replacement 71 nose were different than the ones in my 69 nose.  Weird.

 

You are right Jim, I'll likely wait till I get closer to that point.. I just hate spending extra on shipping if I can help it so I figured I'd add them in if it was easy. 

 

More updates shortly!

[markmac]

Great progress Jason.  Baikal is such a great color (want).  What is the paint removal process going to be?  Seems like there are quite a few of those mobile blast rigs down your way, which seems like a fast way to get that old paint off.  Hopefully you don't have a lot of metal/body work to do.

[Tommy]

4 hours ago, JsnPpp said:

 

You are right Jim, I'll likely wait till I get closer to that point.. I just hate spending extra on shipping if I can help it so I figured I'd add them in if it was easy. 

 

More updates shortly!

You can be sure that something is missing, so be prepared for another shipment anyway. I think if you made it in one order, you'd be the first one ever!

[JsnPpp]

Some updates over the last few days. With it getting dark so early and work being busy it's been difficult. No surprise there.

 

This round:

• Removed hood hinges
• Yep I have a 215mm flywheel
• Dropped rear subframe

Photos from last time, the firewall insulation rubber I removed. Both intact and I believe reusable.

 

Photos ffor future reference, removing the three 13mm bolts holding the hinges on. Drivers side:

 

 

Passenger side. This one has a bracket on the top bolt that holds the horn. Not the prettiest but functional.

 

All parts out, waiting to be bagged. This is another example of how purple alaskablau is. In sunlight it's not this bad.

 

Some clutch inspection. I looked up this number and it seemed to point to a 215mm clutch.

 

The pressure plate also has 215 on it. I'm assuming it would read 228mm if it was Tii. I'll need to pull clutch/pressureplate to replace the rear main seal and I'll have a better look at the flywheel at that time. I plan to replace the clutch no matter the condition (60k is 60k).

 

As I mentioned earlier I *thought* I had this discussion with Stu @ Schatz&Krum way back when. He was a proponent of the 215mm I assume due to lower rotational mass of the clutch.

 

In fact I found this old thread where @Preyupy talks about clutch weight.

Quote

The flywheel diameter and weight is virtually identical between the 215mm and 228mm versions.  The difference between the flywheels is the diameter of the small step that the clutch disc contacts and the bolt pattern for the pressure plate. You can't put a 228mm pressure plate on a 215mm flywheel without drilling new mounting holes and locating the dowel pins or vise-versa.  The 215mm clutch and pressure plate is lighter and more importantly it is 13mm smaller in diameter which makes a huge difference in MOI (moment of inertia)  It is more than capable of taking the power a 2 liter M10 will make, it will wear faster just because there is less friction surface but I know a lot of people that have over 150,000 miles on a 215mm clutch.  If you are into drag race starts or are just generally hard on clutches I might think about going with the 228mm.  I have about 5 guys running my race engines in vintage racing events that are using 215mm clutches and the only problem we have had is the guys that are not very good about engine speed matching on down shifts have broken a couple of the locating straps on the pressure plate.  I have never seen this happen on a street car.     

 

I believe this is what Stu felt as well and it certainly makes sense to me.  In the 60k I've driven this car on this transmission and clutch I never felt like it was lacking. Anyway, thats what I have. 👍

 

Sachs made in germany. I think it is built elsewhere now.

 

On to the rear subframe. I had left it with the passenger side handbrake and brake line still connected. These weren't difficult to complete. Positioning the jack..

 

No matter where I placed the jack, the subframe seemed to hang up on one side or the other. I wound up needing to shift the passenger side car stand slightly forward. While it helped I still found it difficult to drop it.

 

Still hanging.

 

I had to pry it out on one side but it finally dropped and I could slide it out. Had to tilt the shocks down to work. I left muffler and driveshaft in place.

 

Dirty but functional. I'm replacing the shocks all around although these rears likely only have 60K on them. The fronts say boge and can't be original though.

 

Dave @ Aardvark rebuilt the 3.91 LSD back in Feb 2011 it seems! That seems much too long ago but in hindsight the car has been out of commision since 2014 so its not far off.

 

Side shot of the mess.

 

I still need to place the 6x6 on the passenger side. While it won't completely protect me, I feel better with it there. My rule of thumb is not to get under the car like this anyway, I like it when 4 wheels are in place..

 

It's inevitable that it wil be a storage unit of some sort during this. Those have pretty light stuff in them, interior parts.

 

Since most of my orders are done I now can focus on next steps.

• Pull the carpet
• Start prepping the engine bay

Progress!

 

Edited December 7, 2022 by JsnPpp

[bergie33]

When I pulled my tii engine apart it had a 215mm clutch disc and 228mm pressure plate on a 228mm flywheel. Not sure what the PO was thinking. 

[JsnPpp]

8 hours ago, bergie33 said:

When I pulled my tii engine apart it had a 215mm clutch disc and 228mm pressure plate on a 228mm flywheel. Not sure what the PO was thinking. 

 

Yikes - 

 

I definitely want to pull apart the clutch to get a good look at the flywheel to understand what I have.

 

Jason