Engine # 2587064: Build advice & registry guidelines?

[man_mark_7]

Hi All,

 

I just acquired engine # 2587064. I think it's pretty cool that the engine was produced within 379 units of my 2587443 VIN. It looks to be in pretty good shape after pulling the head. I have a 245 5 speed with a 3.91 LSD in the car currently. Most of my driving is what I'd call "spirited-back-road" with an occasional 45 minutes on the highway. Does a 9.5:1, 284 cam, twin weber DCOE 40 setup sound like a good fit for this kind of use? 

 

Second question - I'm assuming that the car with VIN 2587064 is no longer around. I only see cars in the registry, not motors. Is there a way to report the theoretical demise of VIN 2587064?

 

thanks for any comments.

[JerryC]

Sure, just register the VIN with those photos of the engine. Add one of the VIN stamp, too, please. I don't think anyone will mind, there are more than a couple of junked cars in there, and at least one of only engine block photos. If you're curious, you can get the VIN report from BMW and tell everyone when 2587064 was built and its original color.

Jerry

[TobyB]

If you're farting around with DCOEs, you will want far more cam than a '284'-

 

and a significant increase in your exhaust, too.

 

We tend to get hung up on the offerings from McCormich and Schmick's,

but their '292' is wussy, followed by a huge jump to the 'whatever it is that's next'.

It's not the duration, it's lift and overlap.  The '292' that they sell doesn't lift much

or overlap aggressively, nor does it lift fast.

 

Ideally, you'd find something with lift like their 'I forget' next number up, but with a tighter 

lobe separation angle so it'll idle.  I have some junk in the race car that flows well, but idles

like a street car at 1k- and that's with carbs I don't try to tune for idle.

 

Anyone else out theres have cams they likes?

 

t

SOOOOO off the schmicks now that they're ground on the same blank as everyone else.

 

[Conserv]

Whether you’ve got an engine without a chassis, or a chassis without and engine, put it in the Registry. I’ve entered plenty of standalone engines, generally saying — unless I know, for a fact, that the chassis has been crushed — “whereabouts of the chassis unknown at this time.”

 

Generally, over the last fifty years, no one has much cared about whether ‘02 engine were original to the cars. (Even I’ve only cared about it for the last 10-15 years.) Thus, many tired engines were pulled out, stuck in a corner somewhere, and a fresher engine was swapped in. Yes, there’s a good chance that any fifty-year-old car is long gone by now. But finding an engine doesn’t provide proof that a car was crushed!

 

Hint: send an email to BMW Group Archives, with both VIN’s — your car’s and the spare engine’s — and ask for their data on both original cars. Enter both of those replies in the respective Registry entries. The email address is:

 

info.grouparchiv@bmwgroup.com

 

When you attach engine photos to the Registry entry for the engine, it would be great to capture not only the engine number (VIN), but also the casting date, and both the head type and its casting date! There are more details about locating this block and head data in the following article:

 

 

Thanks and regards,

 

Steve

 

[Son of Marty]

I'm with Toby more cow bell, or is that cam.

 

 

 

[Mike Self]

2 hours ago, man_mark_7 said:

I just acquired engine # 2587064. I think it's pretty cool that the engine was produced within 379 units of my 2587443 VIN. 

I can tell you without looking it up that the car that went with your engine was most likely built on 16 or 17 Dec 1972, as my '73's VIN is 2587090, just 25 VINs after your engine with a 17 Dec build date.  You can tell if the head is original to the block by checking its casting date--should be sometime around 10-11-12/72.  

 

If you have the engine, then sadly the rest of the car is probably long gone.  I keep an eye out for VINs close to mine, so would have remembered that one.  The closest I've seen besides yours was 2587042 or thereabouts...

 

Cheers

mike

 

 

[man_mark_7]

49 minutes ago, Mike Self said:

..... You can tell if the head is original to the block by checking its casting date--should be sometime around 10-11-12/72.  

 

....

Thanks Mike - it has the '72 in the casting circle below the e12 marking. It's snowing rather hard here now in MA so I'm going to wait to go out to the garage to post a pic. I think I read somewhere that the dots inside the circle tell the month of casting?

[Conserv]

1 minute ago, man_mark_7 said:

... the dots inside the circle tell the month of casting?

 

Yes: count the nubs!

 

Regards,

 

Steve

 

[rcf925]

4 hours ago, TobyB said:

If you're farting around with DCOEs, you will want far more cam than a '284'-

 

and a significant increase in your exhaust, too.

 

We tend to get hung up on the offerings from McCormich and Schmick's,

but their '292' is wussy, followed by a huge jump to the 'whatever it is that's next'.

It's not the duration, it's lift and overlap.  The '292' that they sell doesn't lift much

or overlap aggressively, nor does it lift fast.

 

Ideally, you'd find something with lift like their 'I forget' next number up, but with a tighter 

lobe separation angle so it'll idle.  I have some junk in the race car that flows well, but idles

like a street car at 1k- and that's with carbs I don't try to tune for idle.

 

Anyone else out theres have cams they likes?

 

t

SOOOOO off the schmicks now that they're ground on the same blank as everyone else.

 

I'm running IE .292 , not regrind with dcoe 45's, 10:1 CR, Shorty headers into Ansa, Ported E12 head. Pulls easily to 7500  . The 304 in my opinion is a little much for the street, pretty lopey idle. Shortly I hope to put on a Dyno to see where I'm at HP wise

[man_mark_7]

I should have mentioned that I'm running the IE Tri-Y header and IE stainless exhaust too.

 

How much does wanting the "bigger" cam have to do with the chokes in the carbs? Right now I'm running 30s - looking for more low end response. Or, is it just something inherent in the design of the DCOE that they want more cam duration? Again - I'm not looking to wring everything I can out of it at the top end. Mostly just short bursts from 2500 to 6000 ish.

 

thx for the advice!

 

 

 

[Son of Marty]

If your running a 3.91 rear end and 30 mm chokes and your not getting the bottom end power you want somethings wrong. Your car should take off like a scalded cat.

[man_mark_7]

10 hours ago, Son of Marty said:

If your running a 3.91 rear end and 30 mm chokes and your not getting the bottom end power you want somethings wrong. Your car should take off like a scalded cat.

It certainly winds through 1st gear pretty darned quick. I'm really pleased w/ how it is now, but I know it's not at Tii or even Ti power levels. I'm always searching to eak out that little bit more. For me the fun is in the continual upgrades & improvements (other than paint for some reason). 

[TobyB]

19 hours ago, rcf925 said:

I'm running IE .292 , not regrind with dcoe 45's, 10:1 CR, Shorty headers into Ansa, Ported E12 head. Pulls easily to 7500  . The 304 in my opinion is a little much for the street, pretty lopey idle. Shortly I hope to put on a Dyno to see where I'm at HP wise

 

 

Yep, that's my take, too- the '292' leaves a lot on the table, especially above 5500, but the McSchmick's 304 

idles poorly given how not- amazing it is in other ways.  KMcams, CatCams, Schneider, Isky and others have

variants that might be better suited.  304 degrees at 1mm isn't all THAT long in duration, if it doesn't overlap

so much...

 

"Bottom end power" is different in different circles- in a 2002, I just don't expect anything below 2k rpm.

If I'm down there, I've messed up.  But in the Ferd 300, anything above 1000 is fair game.

 

A 2002 is always going to burn through first gear- it's meant for stoplights and stumps.

The best test of how low you make power is 3rd.  There'll be a point where you start grinning-

THAT'S where the torque's coming in and making good friends with the revs.

It's always a bit of a shift going from the M20 race car- in it, even at 2k, I can ask for a bit

of torque to rotate the rear.  The 2002 goes BLAAAAA through the carbs- and NOTHING happens!

 

Eh, it's all good.  

 

t

sitting in front of the computer instead of scavenging together a 'race' engine.

 

[man_mark_7]

On 2/7/2021 at 2:12 PM, Mike Self said:

I can tell you without looking it up that the car that went with your engine was most likely built on 16 or 17 Dec 1972, as my '73's VIN is 2587090, just 25 VINs after your engine with a 17 Dec build date.  You can tell if the head is original to the block by checking its casting date--should be sometime around 10-11-12/72.  

 

If you have the engine, then sadly the rest of the car is probably long gone.  I keep an eye out for VINs close to mine, so would have remembered that one.  The closest I've seen besides yours was 2587042 or thereabouts...

 

Cheers

mike

Bingo. Looks like 11 dots to me = 11/72 casting date.

 

 

[man_mark_7]

Looks like the block was cast in 15 November 72 - Did I decode this correctly?