Dash/Console Lighting

[1602bmw]

Went for the first drive yesterday - finally (I have been waiting for UK registration plates since importing it from France), and drove back home at night. One thing I noticed was my dash was quite dim when I had the lights on.

 

Easy fix with some new bulbs?

 

Also, the main beam light pull thing on the dash (not sure what is called) was really hot - the metal bit

 

Suggestions welcome!

[TodB]

Is the headlight switch turned all the way? It will dim the gauge lights. 

[AustrianVespaGuy]

18 minutes ago, Chris Brewerton said:

Also, the main beam light pull thing on the dash (not sure what is called) was really hot

This really isn't good.  The stock wiring design has all the current for the headlights going through that switch (dumb), and now 50ish years on if there's any resistance (corroded wires) etc. the current through that resistance translates to heat, which is not good for any part of it.  At the very least pull the switch, clean the contacts, and check the wires.  Far better still would be to rewire the lights with relays so that all the current no longer goes through the switch.  Full details for this in my write-up here:

 

21 minutes ago, Chris Brewerton said:

I noticed was my dash was quite dim when I had the lights on.

As for the dash, it *could* be that your main light circuit and/or switch is in such bad shape that it's causing this too.  But if it's still bad after you fix the main headlights, then pull the cluster, remove the gauges and glass, and paint the whole inside of the cluster housing white, put new bulbs in the instruments, and reassembly.  This one's actually pretty easy as far as DIY jobs go, don't need much more than your hands and I *think* a 7mm nut driver to remove the gauges.

[1602bmw]

Ah OK (und servus ;). That makes sense. Then, hopefully, I may kill two birds with one stone, as I have some halogen replacement headlights arriving this week so that the beam points to the correct side of the road (for legal reasons). Thanks for the link too - I am also toying with the idea of some driving lights! I'll get the light circuit/switch checked at the same time

[Son of Marty]

Check the dash lights to be sure they all work along with the rheostat you need them all to eliminate dark spots on the instruments, If your using halogen lights relays will be needed as the bulbs are very voltage sensitive and should be wired through a relay with a feed right off the battery.

[Mike Self]

If your car is a roundie--and from your picture it appears to be, there are no relays for either low or high beam headlights--and 6 fuse cars don't even have fuses for the headlights!  You'll need to install a (preferably) fused relay (that is, a relay with a built-in fuse--Hella makes 'em) for at least your high beams--and if you're adventurous, for your low beams too.  I did a column on how to do the high beam side; PM me for a copy.  

 

As for dim dash lights, replacing what are probably the original bulbs will help immensely.  Incandescent bulbs grow dim over time before they finally poop out.  Also you should clean the rheostat that changes the dash light's brightness; to do this you'll have to remove the headlight switch and physically clean the rheostat coil with a Q-tip and an electronics cleaner.  If you decide to go with LED bulbs in your instrument cluster make sure they're dimmable--and don't replace the alternator charge bulb with an LED, or the alternator won't charge.  

 

cheers

mike

[1602bmw]

I'll get some new bulbs for the dash.

That's good to know about the relay. Do any of you have a link/pic so that I can find the correct one?

[AustrianVespaGuy]

Any 12V automotive relay will work, either a 4-prong SPST or 5 prong SPDT, and good quality spade terminals  Read through my article on how to wire them up; it'll take you a little time to get everything sorted out, make sure you're working with the right wires, etc., but it's not terribly difficult. On a roundie you'll need to run a few more wires, but you still shouldn't need to cut any of the factory wires! Factory wires just control the relay coils, then then new wiring goes from the battery to the relays and then from the relays to either the fuses (if you have them) or to the lights with new inline fuses or similar (if you don't).

https://www.amazon.com/Nilight-Automotive-Harness-Interlocking-Socket/dp/B0748F1JK4

[Mike Self]

2 hours ago, Chris Brewerton said:

That's good to know about the relay. Do any of you have a link/pic so that I can find the correct one?

Go on Hella's web site--http://ows.tecdoc.net/hella/home.jsp?server=1&time=26/8/2020-10:32:56#41e03fa73fd6a7c280898ee8aadf01be

 

This is the relay that I used:  4RA 003 530-001, HELLA Relay, main current--except the current version uses a blade fuse rather than a cartridge fuse like those on your '02...

 

 

mike

[jimk]

BMW has used a bunch of odd ball terminal patterns on their relays.  Functions are the same, i.e. terminal 30, 85, 86, 87, 87a but a std relay won't fit the socket.  They also incorporate diodes and resistors for flyback protection on some.

[1602bmw]

4 hours ago, Mike Self said:

Go on Hella's web site--http://ows.tecdoc.net/hella/home.jsp?server=1&time=26/8/2020-10:32:56#41e03fa73fd6a7c280898ee8aadf01be

 

This is the relay that I used:  4RA 003 530-001, HELLA Relay, main current--except the current version uses a blade fuse rather than a cartridge fuse like those on your '02...

 

mike

 

Nice one, thanks Mike!

[Mike A]

Tii? If you have a clock, the stock # for the bulb is a BA 7.  LEDs are nice.

[Mike Self]

8 hours ago, jimk said:

BMW has used a bunch of odd ball terminal patterns on their relays.  Functions are the same, i.e. terminal 30, 85, 86, 87, 87a but a std relay won't fit the socket. 

Roundies don't have sockets for their one and only relay--just separate wires.  Chris is adding this relay to his car, so he doesn't need a socket unless he wants to use one.  Individual wires with spade terminals will work just fine in his application.

 

mike