Oxidation: Wet Sandpaper or Buffing Compound

[Fletcher]

What I have (above) and a vague idea I hope for (below)

without a repaint, how best to get there?   Will oxidation like this come off with wet sanding and/or buffing or will that take the paint off entirely?

 

thanks!

[esty]

wax or polish to remove the oxidation...i would advise against sanding...on the other hand, only sanding then repainting will fix the rusted areas

 

[zinz]

I'd bet the paint is pretty thin at this point.  Wet sanding would probably remove it, especially off the high spots.  I've had good luck with an orbital polisher and compound.  Be ready to clean the pad a LOT...buy at least two to keep moving. 

 

I use a Griot's orbital and their compound products with good success.  I also like the Meguiars' products a lot.  Meguiars #7 is the perfect product for your car, in my opinion.  I used it on a super faded, blue, single stage Earl Scheib type paint job and it came out very respectable.

 

 

Any way you slice it, be prepared for a big job and don't expect miracles. Definitely use painters blue tape on the trim and window seals for this job.  

 

Good luck!  Post some after-pics.

 

Ed Z

Edited August 11, 2020 by zinz

[bluebmw]

^ what Ed said! I wouldn't wet sand it, looks too thin.

 

Tape off or remove all the seals, trim, lights, etc. Be very careful around rust spots and flaking paint. Start with some fine polish on a random orbital buffer and work a small area well, ideally a hidden spot (in case you mess up). Casually work your way to a heavier compound to see what works best (gives a good shine without revealing primer). I'd start with Meguiar's 205 (rated a "4" level cut) and, at most, work up to Meguiar's 85 (rated a "10" level cut). Use a new pad for each compound. Be careful with the heavier cutting compounds, it's easy to get carried away and remove too much paint - you can't undo that! Once you've cut deep, gradually work your way back to finer polishes.

 

Attached some photos of a Mercedes I refreshed last year. Went from super chalky single stage paint to like-new! Same paint, just cut deep, polished, and waxed. First pic is how I bought it, second pic is when I brought it back a few months later.

[Hans]

I'd be careful with that buffer. In the old days, we went at it with a pile of towels and pre-cleaner of some sort.

[TobyB]

How to get from pic A to pic B:

 

t

 

[Mikesmalaga72]

If that is the green car in the first picture, I believe it is beyond the point of just rubbing out on the hood especially with the surface rust showing through, on the other panels without the rust showing I would try a medium compound and work your way to a finer compound then polish. Good luck!

 

[roadhog0]

Honestly, chalky paint is almost impossible to get to stay nice again. I've tried. I would get something like Meguiars #7, a DA buffer, and lots of microfiber towels. I have tried to bring back both my 2002 and a 90's S10 pickup. Both I can get to look AMAZING for about a week, then the oxidation comes right back slowly. Doesn't matter how much wax I put on it, just old dead paint. I have found Meguiars #7 to keep it the best the longest. Put a LOT on in the shade and let it sit on there for a while so the paint soaks it up. May need a few tries. Honestly though, paint is the longest lasting solution.

 

Good luck! 

[Bavarian Deuce]

I prefer using the 3M rubbing compound system for oxidation issues or just getting the clear to shine again when feasible. A little ole fashion clay and elbow grease also works when the paint is still intact. In your case, I'm with Toby and time to get'er redone. Of course, as some people do, the despicable rat rod option is there, just prep and shoot some clear to prevent further corrosion until you can start from scratch. 

[g_force]

I agree with the others that your hood and upper surfaces are too far gone to save, and that sanding/compounding the unrusted bits on the sides and elsewhere will only fleetingly bring back the shine.  I think I'd still do it, just so you have the experience and can either tell us that we were all wrong or tell the next guy in line how it didn't work for you.  It's really just elbow grease.  The materials aren't too expensive.  3M and the beige bottle Meguires products are pretty good, and readily available at corner auto parts stores.  

 

You do want to halt the rust.  Spraying it in clear might cost a bunch and cause some problems.  I've, personally, used rust converter (Eastwood's and a Permitex brand) to prevent further rust.  The stuff I have in mind is pretty thin, and converts the rust to black, inert metal.  It holds up pretty well.  I haven't personally used CLR, but have read about the rat rod crowd using CLR to reduce rust before either converting it or waxing it.  @wegweiser preserved the patina on his tii.   Call him at Maximillian Importing and ask what he did (and, while you're at it, buy some stuff from them to support the folks that support our hobby).  

 

I feel for you.  Paint is the hardest thing about our cars.  We can all turn a wrench, but paint is finicky, poisonous, and requires expensive equipment to get right.

[wegweiser]

Thanks Josh! That kind of referral means EVERYTHING to us.

 

Actually.... I haven't done ANYTHING yet to "preserve" the paint/metal on the F Bomb yet... my plan will probably be to DA / sand it relatively smooth - and then shoot it with a high quality satin clear, once I pull the glass and trim off.... but I have rocker panel / fender / 1/4 panel rust to fix before I get deep into that part of the project!

 

Also - new and exciting 2002 parts stuff on our blog! (link below!)

www.maximillianblog.com

Edited August 12, 2020 by wegweiser

[Dug Nichols]

On 8/12/2020 at 5:25 PM, wegweiser said:

Thanks Josh! That kind of referral means EVERYTHING to us.

 

Actually.... I haven't done ANYTHING yet to "preserve" the paint/metal on the F Bomb yet... my plan will probably be to DA / sand it relatively smooth - and then shoot it with a high quality satin clear, once I pull the glass and trim off.... but I have rocker panel / fender / 1/4 panel rust to fix before I get deep into that part of the project!

 

Also - new and exciting 2002 parts stuff on our blog! (link below!)

www.maximillianblog.com

LOVE this patina and your plan to sand out the rough and satin clear it!