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    Dallas, TX

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  1. A more common method, and more feasible on relatively inexpensive equipment, is to "slice" the 3D model into layers (thickness dependant on the resolution you want in your buck/mold), print the layers on paper, and use the paper as templates for the boards in your buck. If you're using this method for a mold, you use the paper templates to cut out foam sheets, stack and glue the sheets together, sand the interior mold face into a smooth curve, and glass it up.
  2. Although I had many in the style of the colored, air brushed ones you posted, I like Yoshikawa's pen and ink style the best. I wish he'd do an '02 or an e30.
  3. Me too! And, unlike other forums out there, no one here will harass you for the thread necrophilia.
  4. Marty is right. I've a thicker radiator with the Sanden/Behr adapter and cut my lower hose a touch shorter for a touch more clearance.
  5. I've done it with a drill, which i think is better than this IC engine, because you can hear the transmission better. Super easy, but really doesn't tell you much you can't tell by turning and feeling things by hand. To check synchros don't you need something like a flywheel on the output to cause the two halves of the gear train to operate at different speeds? A clutch master/slave doesn't get you what you need.
  6. The "green" brake cleaner doesn't have the tetrachloroethelyene that becomes mustard gas, and seems to work nearly as well. In fact, because the can is green, I'm also certain that this type of cleaner is both healthy and downright environmentally friendly!😉
  7. My memory is fuzzy. You need to hunt down the threads on the FAQ. In a sec googling it, seems the CIS manifolds are larger and there's an insert you can buy to put press in injectors into a CIS manifold: https://www.bitzracing.com/products/injector_bungs/
  8. Tii is threaded for K-fish injectors - the K-fish, of course, being a rare, highly prized fuel injection system. The e21 are threaded for CIS injectors - a fuel injection system no one would wish on their worst enemy. It's been a long time since I delved into this, but I recall that some e21 are L-Jet, which I think accept a conventional, press in injector.
  9. Colorobo is correct. The details have been discussed here a few times, although it's been a while. Spend some time searching and you might be able to find it. Also, it's probably better to modify a much more common e21 320i manifold, and not a tii manifold.
  10. Come on Scoob, it is time to admit the you're secretly a Porscheafile trying to infiltrate the '02 community, and can't live without a leftie ignition switch. . . or, perhaps as bad, a closet Porscheafile trying to make you '02 Porsche-like.
  11. Steve, if all else fails, crowd source it. Post it someplace on the web, and post the link to the FAQ. Someone'll get it open.
  12. Drag the file on the computer's hard drive, then try opening it with your browser.
  13. I've that same unit in my garage of slightly smaller dimension for a couple of years. It is an attached garage with 9ft ceilings, and has a room above so it is probably easier to heat and cool than either wheelieking's or xr4tic's. But, I also don't have an insulated garage door. I do have seals around the door and between the door and floor. My MrCool was able to bring my garage temp into the 60s when it was sunny and in the upper teens here during Texas's recent snowmageddon. It was warm enough in my garage to be comfortable in pants and a long sleeve shirt while fixing the burst pipe in my garage wall. ☹️ But, when low 40s, damp and windy, it is not comfortable to work under the car on the cold concrete floor, except with a couple of layers. My MrCool, in the summer, brings my garage temp to the mid 70s when it's sunny and near 100 deg if I start it in the morning while it's still relatively cool out (maybe high 80s). If I start it after lunch, there's no hope of cooling it to below the high 80s. I've not paid attention to energy usage, but agree they're supposedly more efficient at cooling than heating. Regardless, I recommend them. Install was easy, if you've got the power (24k BTU is 220V) and the cost was reasonable ~$2k with the electrician cost to wire a 220V. FWIW, I got a couple of quotes to install mini-splits. Both quotes were in the $6k range.
  14. Where to you put the jack stands when the '02 is up on the QuickJack? I'm wondering if there's room to reach the reinforced positions on the pinch weld (which mine, being a TX car, are solid), or whether you must put them under the frame rails/rear subframe.
  15. I almost spit my coffee out through my nose. That was a great morning laugh!
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