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g_force

Kugelfischer
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  1. For daily driving e46>e36>e30>e21>2002. e30 is probably the floor of what I would consider for a daily. You can't underestimate how much more reliable - in the sense of it doesn't need constant fiddling - an e30 will be over an e21 or 2002. For example, an e30 will be EFI and electronic ignition. It will run right unless something is broken or worn. While you can replace the points with a Pertronixs, carbs on an '02, even if new, will require fiddling. You have to fiddle with them to get them initially tuned and you'll be constantly fiddling thereafter to account for weather changes. If you don't fiddle with them, you'll smell like exhaust after ever drive. The fiddling is fun, but sometimes you just need to be able to hop in and drive. Beyond the reliability, an e30 has a real ventilation system - good heat and A/C that actually cools you. The e30 unit body is more robust, and probably much safer. It'll drive smoother and faster and quieter on the highway. It's just a more of what you've come to expect from a car.
  2. FWIW, you can fart in Home Depot, especially now that everyone is wearing face masks and keeping their distance. I bought a full set of ESCOs, like Dave, for my primary set, but I still need some extra tall ones. How're the pin type from HD? I notice they've got some tall 6-ton ones online that weren't in my local HD last time I went.
  3. I had the Vredestein Sessantas on an M5 for about 30k miles. They were quiet, stable and wore well. The sidewalls weren't mushy, but the tires also weren't the grippiest. Better than the mushy, slippery, cheap Falcons that were on the car when I bought it. Not as good as the Pilot Sports, Re71s and Direzzas I've had on other cars. But, I was pleased with the Vreds for cheap tires. All of these data points are on cars that weigh 500 to 2000lbs more than an '02 and in much lower aspect and bigger width sizes, so it's not a direct comparison. But, it's a (subjective) data point.
  4. Yes, specifically these HF jacks. I think there is nothing inherently wrong with a ratchet / pawl mechanism lock, if the surfaces are large enough, square and mate well - from the factory or after some use and abuse. But, this got me thinking that a through pin (like the ESCOs irdave linked to) is an order of magnitude safer.
  5. I rely on jack stands alone for support. But, when I'm under the car, I usually have a wheel off and I slide it under the car with me. If I don't have a wheel off, I leave the jack in place, but lowered 1/4" so the jack stands are the only thing supporting the weight.
  6. Yeah, thanks. After reviewing a similar thread by the P-car folks, I just bought a set of ESCO's. The shorties (10499's) seemed the most analogous to normal sized jack stands. I bought the HF 6 tons, because I never felt comfortable with the Craftsmans at full height (much slop between the base and riser). Maybe these'll be better at full height. Jackpoint stands were also a favorite: http://www.jackpointjackstands.com/ I must admit being able to jack through them is cool. But, at $650 a pair, that puts them in QuickJack price territory. I saw some discussion of these double locking stands elsewhere as a budget option ($45/pair): https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200756194_200756194 It looks like the lock pin inserts through the ratchet, not through a hole in the riser. I guess this could be OK.
  7. I saw that Harbor Freight's jack stands were recalled (see here). While my main jack stands are some 20 y/o Craftsmans, I do own a set of the HF 6 ton stands for when I need to get my cars up really high. They seem sturdy, but then again so do my Craftsmans. This got me thinking that maybe I should look at replacing all my jack stands with something better, maybe something with a safety lock pin. Any suggestions on what?
  8. Edit: I got what i needed. Ryan hooked me up. Thanks! Anyone have the mounts (#15 and #12) that span between the tii air filter canister and the mounts on the sidewall of the engine bay to sell? If no, anyone willing to trace theirs and post them.
  9. That plate seems more appropriate for a jacked up jeep, as you're unlikely to see a Lamborghini upside down.
  10. Welcome to the fold, Jason. You and Terry going to start making '02 stuff?
  11. ^This^ I have MCS non-remotes on my e36 track car, and they are magic. I've driven ASTs on an e36 and they were nice, but not as "magic" as the MCS. My anecdotal, butt feel says the MCS were more controlled through a few corners at my local track. I wasn't disappointed having spent the additional cost for the MCS, which at the time was nearly $1k difference. Of course, this is all after I owned the MCS, and driving my own car vs. someone elses, so take my anecdotal, butt feel with a grain of salt. Plus, Lex is a good guy and knows BMW suspensions, or a least he knows, knows e30 and e36. He was a lot of help in selecting springs. For what it's worth, the MCS on my e36 have ruined me for any off the shelf, high production shock. They're so much more controlled. I moved up from Bilstien sports on the e36, and it was a very noticeable difference. I've also had other other off the shelf performance dampers on other cars, and none compared. Because of the MCS, half a dozen times I've almost ponied up the cash for some Kings remotes on my daily driver Jeep, just pining for that controlled feel of the MCS on everything I drive. One caveat is I don't know how either the MCS or AST will hold up to the miles. I know a bunch of folks with the ASTs that developed leaks quickly and needed rebuilds. My MCS don't have many miles on them, because the car is a dedicated track car. Rebuilds aren't tough, but they are still a little work.
  12. For those who've used the 2K clear in spray cans, would the finish on this hold up better for longer if it were over-coated in a semi-gloss 2k clear? If so, should we be using 2k clear on everything we paint?
  13. Dude, calm down. At least URO is selling seals and supporting our cars. It's not like '02 are super high volume classics, so URO aren't earning a mint producing these seals for us. Their seals do work, just not ideal, and I laude the guy for being willing to engage with us and trying to improve the design. If you don't like the product, then pony up for BMW's seals. Don't grouse at URO for trying.
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