Floor pan - oh! oh!

[TNan]

It seems like I got myself in a little pickle.  I'm currently 'trying' to replace my new frame rail AND my new driver floor pan both purchased from W&N but I may have botched my floor pan cutting.  Am I SOL or do you guys think this is salvageable (or will I need to place another order (damn!)?   My frame rail is measured to the tee - so I'm certain its in the correct position - however in the photo you will see there's a gap between the floor pan and the end of the rail.  I know W&N's pans are not formed like the original - could this be the reason???  FML!

 

[Mike G]

Jack the end of the rail up and weld it. 

[VWJake]

For starters you should trim the flange on the rail where it sits on top of the floor drain boss. That’ll tighten things up some. You'll likely need to remove some of the flange at the end of the rail too where it meets the end stop formed into the pan as well

[Highnote1]

Don’t sweat it. Floor jack and hammer. Get butt weld joints right and hammer everything else to a tight fit. That will go together fine!

[rcf925]

There's nothing you can't make right working with metal, Pretty much

[D.martijn]

Yeah, as you mentioned yourself, who says the frame rails are stamped as they should?

Obviously the front subframe points need to be correct but the rest is not very important measurement wise.

 

Like others suggested, try pushing the frame rails up with a jack or even some long metal screws and go from there.

 

[Toga]

I've been there too ! I can just confirm what D.martijn wrote here above: be sure the front axle points are correct. the rest...hammer!

[JackF]

Once things are tacked up you could through drill and draw it up. Use a bit of heat to help things along. If jacking it up you might take a 4x4 or so and cut a shoe to conform to the radius of the rail to support it while jacking. 

[xr4tic]

The W&N floor pan isn't a perfect fit to the original frame rail either, but mine was closer than yours.

 

That bump at the rear of the pan is supposed to line up with the end of the frame rail flange, it also looks like the frame rail flange is overlapping the round drain plug area, so make sure that isn't pushing the pan up.

 

Maybe you can slide the pan further back and see if it matches up better?

[Son of Marty]

Yeah your going to have to notch around the drain boss first then after spot welding jack the rear up to the floor checking to be sure you don't put a pressure bend into the flange if so notch the flange with a small v that you can weld over. Remember your not forcing the parts together your using the engineering principle of pre-loading.