1972 BMW 2002 Solex Carburetor 32/32 major funk

[resra]

Here is more good reading regarding the tuning from same author:

 

 

 

[GraysonHaugen]

On 5/15/2019 at 12:00 PM, '76mintgrün'02 said:

That'd be a red flag to me.  It implies having been wet.  Could mean white crusty nastiness inside.

 

Did the $250 one in the for sale section get away?  That one looked fresh.  You don't need the manifold, but could pass that along.  

 

 

Alright master tinkerer, I need to chew your ear for some direction. I am sticking with the manual choke (for now) on the weber. I went and bought an EMPI choke cable which I hope to run and mount today. Any pointers to where on the firewall I should feed the choke cable through? 

I'd like to mount low and out of sight / no dash mods as well. I am sure there have been many threads on this but I am not turning up much info on where to run the cable. 

direction is appreciated!

[GraysonHaugen]

I went to Discount Import Auto Parts off of 99N going into Portland. which still supplies and orders all sorts of parts for weber carbs. 

I took a picture and parts number list of their Weber 32/36 DGV in case it was helpful. They had all the various diagrams for all the Weber's as well. 

 

 

['76mintgrün'02]

38 minutes ago, GraysonHaugen said:

where to run the cable

There is a little hole in the firewall, just to the left of the steering column (if you are inside the car).

[Jimmy]

The early steering column surround is metal not plastic and has a hole for mounting the choke cable. I have an extra one if you're in the market. 

 

The manual choke 32/36 ship with different emulsion tubes than the water/electric choke models. I don't know why or what the difference, just something that redline told me recently.

[GraysonHaugen]

The early steering column surround is metal not plastic and has a hole for mounting the choke cable. I have an extra one if you're in the market. 
 
The manual choke 32/36 ship with different emulsion tubes than the water/electric choke models. I don't know why or what the difference, just something that redline told me recently.

Found the hole. Had a little rubber plug in it. Feeding cable thru now but the wire harness and steering column are making it extremely difficult to bolt from the back side.


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[Jimmy]

3 hours ago, GraysonHaugen said:

Alright master tinkerer, I need to chew your ear for some direction. I am sticking with the manual choke (for now) on the weber. I went and bought an EMPI choke cable which I hope to run and mount today. Any pointers to where on the firewall I should feed the choke cable through? 

I'd like to mount low and out of sight / no dash mods as well. I am sure there have been many threads on this but I am not turning up much info on where to run the cable. 

direction is appreciated!

 

Also, if your distributor isn't healthy, it will make correctly configuring the carburetor a frustrating endeavor. When you know your static timing and advance functions are good, make sure you eliminate any possible vacuum leaks. A minor vacuum leak will make it difficult to set the idle speed and mixture correctly. I had a cracked cap on one small port and the idle wouldn't slow below 1000 even with the stop screw several millimeters away from the linkage.

Edited May 24, 2019 by Jimmy
Too many vacuums

[GraysonHaugen]

 
Also, if your distributor isn't healthy, it will make correctly configuring the carburetor a frustrating endeavor. When you know your static timing and advance functions are good, make sure you eliminate any possible vacuum leaks. A minor vacuum leak will make it difficult to set the idle speed and mixture correctly. I had a cracked cap on one small port and the idle wouldn't slow below 1000 even with the stop screw several millimeters away from the linkage.

Yes. I am having slowing the idle. The distributor has been converted to electric and works well.
Also, upon acceleration, the carb chokes a bit when the jets spray. I am assuming this is too rich but it doesn’t kill the car even when I’ve got the mixture screw in. Practically seated down.... sooo either I’m doing something wrong, the carb truly needs a full rebuild, or I am missing something big.

On a positive note, the choke is installed and works wonderfully.




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[GraysonHaugen]

For any of ya'll looking to instal a real sneaky choke cable, this is the tiny hole I was directed to by 'The Tinkerer' ? 

 

Manual Clutch Installation Tip: install it with one arm reaching around inside, and one arm in the engine bay. It was MUCH easy to thread the nut on without eyes but at least having two hands on either side of the fire wall. 

The second photo is the brass nipple for fuel which is press-fit into the weber casting. I don't know why or how it fell out but it did. I tried to forcibly press it back in (without removing the carb, lazily).. seemed promising to a coors light sipping rain soaked dingus who successfully installed their first choke cable. but alas it was leakier than a sieve. I suppose I wasn't that supplied. 

 

Wondering if tapping the weber casting is necessary or if there is an alternate threaded brass nipple with a hexed section I can just Rambo into the weber. My assumption is that the brass would be too soft to pull that off... EDIT: I FOUND SOME FINE FOLK ON THE FORUM WHO HAVE HAD AND RESOLVED SAID ISSUE. see link, HERE if interested 

Final thought: the brass cap on the bottom which also has a slight drip of fuel sneaking out holds like a cup a very fine mesh screen. this had quite a bit of sediment collected up around the screen which is all cleaned out now but I am afraid of overnighting, again, for the brass-resilience and my tendency to rambo-tighten to a point of disfunction. obviously within reason, is it okay to give this a good heave to seat it to a no leaking situation or am I faced with another parts replacement dilemma.
 

Edited May 25, 2019 by GraysonHaugen

[GraysonHaugen]

Fuel Inlet pipe fixed with a little roughing up and a dose of JB Weld. 

Fuel Filter Basket leak fixed with a little wrap of that white plumbers tape on threads.

 

Idle speed remains the mystery and I think.... I'll need to perform a rebuild. Running at a regular warm temperature, the car is idling at 2300 RPM. The mixture screw is set correctly and the idle speed screw is backed almost clllllllll the way out (see pictures). Can I adjust that large throttle knuckle over one notch to give myself some more idle screw to slow it down more? 

 

If not..

It comes to removing the carburetor and starting to take it apart. In terms of process, a few tips would be appreciated. Obviously I will tap into the wealth of knowledge already found on the form. but as I am taking apart a carburetor that hasn't even on a car in 10 years, maybe there are a few words of caution or pro tips for not totally boogering the rebuild. is there something that has a visual cue I should look for? 

 

all the best

Edited May 25, 2019 by GraysonHaugen
throttle/idle screw

[Jimmy]

I wouldn't jump to rebuilding the carburetor as a fix for what ails you. I'm not saying it doesn't need it, it probably does, but I would not expect high idle to be a symptom of it needing a rebuild unless it's leaking a ton of air around worn shaft/bushings. Also, many "rebuilds" do not address air leaks so you wind up with a carby with brand new guts that still leaks air anyway.

 

As for the stumble when you step on it, that's just a 32/36 thing you have to work hard at fixing. Fancy ignition stuff helps, but from what I've seen, a popular "fix" is to configure the carb to run rich, which introduces other problems.

 

Double-check all your potential vacuum leaks. Sometimes the check valve on the booster fails, gets installed the wrong way, or the booster itself leaks. The vacuum advance pot on the dizzy can leak, so even good hoses don't always equal "no vacuum leaks." I disconnected and capped everything with new caps and THEN I was able to get expected/predictable results from the carby.

[Jimmy]

Also, if it was parked on a shelf for ten years the butterflies may be sticking at wherever they rested and not closing completely. The "clean everything up" portion of a rebuild would fix that but you should be able to determine whether it's happening or not without taking the carb apart.

[Brandon]

Rebuild the Weber that is used and has been sitting dormant on a shelf for ten years.  Your only fooling yourself if you don’t.  There will be a 100% difference in the way the engine runs if you do.  Afterwards, dial in the ignition timing, fuel mixture and idle and you will love your 02 so much more!

[Tom Daley]

Hi, I have a run issue that I think is Solex 32/32 related.

 

Basics ; '76 one owner 93k miles.  Engine is fresh with good compression, 1984 E12 head, 292 cam, emission air injectors tubes removed and exh manifold clear as can be, intake/exhaust ports and gaskets opened up for good flow. Intake gaskets sealed up. All vacuum lines are new, brake booster is okay. Cap rotor points wires all okay. Points at .016 and timing at 25deg. 2500ohm on the wires and ~1100 ohm on the coil wire. Coil is new and I think 3 ohm. Ireland engineering stainless exhaust. New plugs

 

Problem; You can feel that it really wants to run strong but #1 and 4 don't put out the power like 2 and 3. If I pull 1 and 4 plug wires off the idle only drops a little bit and I have a putt-putt skip sound out the tail pipe. Pull 2 or 3 and the idle drops drastically. You can feel the roughness upon acceleration. I've searched high and low for vacuum leaks. 

 

I appreciate any ideas anyone may have. Tom

[John76]

Tom,

The intake runners for cylinders #1 and #4 both have small vacuum taps. #4 runner has two (one for the brake booster).

Cap all these (including the brake booster) and try your cylinder balance test again.

John