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Jimmy

Alpina
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About Jimmy

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  1. I bypassed the return valve and ran the pump straight to the carb. First crank was a little better, subsequent cranks progressively worse. When I removed the line to reconnect it to the bypass valve, it was pressurized. At this point I suspect crap in the carburetor. I'll take it apart tomorrow.
  2. My meter says the electrical connection is has +12v with the key on. It was bone dry when I removed it. I pulled the cone off and snipped the pin anyway. No change. I pulled the fuel line between the tank return valve and the carburetor, it was bone dry too. Tank is full. Fuel filter more than half full. Vacuum applied to the return valve while cranking results in fuel spurting out the supply line to the carb. The valve may be suspect. What's risk of disconnecting it and running th fuel line straight to the carb from the pump (mechanical)
  3. Thanks. How much fuel can I expect to lose when I remove it?
  4. For those with experience, shouldn't you be able to feel the anti-dieseling solenoid click on and off with the key if it's working correctly? Any recommended macgyver bypasses?
  5. What's a roundie? 😝
  6. Imagine my surprise when I learned that the Germans pronounce VW "Fow Vay." Jimmy - speaks English reasonably well for a second language.
  7. I just replaced all my flex lines, calipers, and wheel cylinders. I had a similar behavior with the rears as you describe. I shrugged my shoulders and moved to the fronts and got those bled somewhat, then went back to traditional method of bleeding starting at the right rear. The pressure/flow at the rears was MUCH better after bleeding the fronts somewhat. I /think/ it might have to do with the extra lines to the front calipers being shared by the rear circuits. I'm not sure whether my experience meaningfully relates to yours or not, as I didn't use a pressure bleeder, but rather enlisted the services of the unfortunately located. 😉
  8. Also, if it was parked on a shelf for ten years the butterflies may be sticking at wherever they rested and not closing completely. The "clean everything up" portion of a rebuild would fix that but you should be able to determine whether it's happening or not without taking the carb apart.
  9. I wouldn't jump to rebuilding the carburetor as a fix for what ails you. I'm not saying it doesn't need it, it probably does, but I would not expect high idle to be a symptom of it needing a rebuild unless it's leaking a ton of air around worn shaft/bushings. Also, many "rebuilds" do not address air leaks so you wind up with a carby with brand new guts that still leaks air anyway. As for the stumble when you step on it, that's just a 32/36 thing you have to work hard at fixing. Fancy ignition stuff helps, but from what I've seen, a popular "fix" is to configure the carb to run rich, which introduces other problems. Double-check all your potential vacuum leaks. Sometimes the check valve on the booster fails, gets installed the wrong way, or the booster itself leaks. The vacuum advance pot on the dizzy can leak, so even good hoses don't always equal "no vacuum leaks." I disconnected and capped everything with new caps and THEN I was able to get expected/predictable results from the carby.
  10. Also, if your distributor isn't healthy, it will make correctly configuring the carburetor a frustrating endeavor. When you know your static timing and advance functions are good, make sure you eliminate any possible vacuum leaks. A minor vacuum leak will make it difficult to set the idle speed and mixture correctly. I had a cracked cap on one small port and the idle wouldn't slow below 1000 even with the stop screw several millimeters away from the linkage.
  11. The early steering column surround is metal not plastic and has a hole for mounting the choke cable. I have an extra one if you're in the market. The manual choke 32/36 ship with different emulsion tubes than the water/electric choke models. I don't know why or what the difference, just something that redline told me recently.
  12. Wow. Clearly the inspiration for the E12 styling. I don't care for the Renault treatment of the kidneys, but the rest is interesting.
  13. The earliest Sciroccos had two wipers, then from '76 they had one, all the way through then end of the first series in '81. When the body style changed in '82 they retained the single wiper through '83, and in '84 they went back to two through the end of production.
  14. How well does it age? I've used Rain-X before and as time goes by it tends to result in the water starting to look opaque, almost milky, as it collects on the windshield. That has presented itself at inopportune times.
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