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Jimmy last won the day on July 11 2019

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  1. I think it would be more accurate to say you can't always tell by moving it by hand. I had one I was sure was dead and it worked fine after it was pumped a bit from being run in the car. It's not exactly reassuring given the nuisance of changing a front one but the rears aren't that bad.
  2. Same. I had one that was stuck out of the box, took a ton of force to break it loose. Dealing with Koni isn't great but you don't have to do it very often.
  3. In my experience Koni ships them at full soft, but someone who has handled many sets of them may have something different to say. As far as setting, there is no one "correct" setting, that's why they're adjustable in the first place. Besides spring stiffness, your dampers have to contend with controlling the motion of your wheel and tire package, the combined weight of which varies immensely, then there's the weight of whichever brake setup you have etc. Big heavy wheels with big heavy brake kits need more damping than skinny little stock 13s. When I get around to installing mine, which may be next winter at this rate, I'm going to set the fronts at exactly half and the rears at slightly more than exactly half and drive it to see what I think. Cheers.
  4. For what it's worth, when I replaced all my flex lines, calipers and wheel cylinders, enough air got into the system that I was unable to get any fluid to emerge from the rears until I partially bled the fronts. So I started at the front and then went to the rear and did the "classic" flush/bleed, ending with the fronts again.
  5. Can you elaborate on what makes it "better?" All the tune up specs I've seen show it hitting 25 degrees advance a full 1000 rpm later than carb dizzys, which makes sense when you compare the flame speed of poorly atomized fuel (carb) and the kfish injection. It's certainly "better" for a tii but Im still not convinced it's an improvement on a carb car.
  6. I agree some sleuthing is in order before a decision is made. I still don't understand why some people think a non-vacuum dizzy on a carbureted car is an upgrade over a vacuum dizzy, though.
  7. Cam, pistons, head work, distributor re-curve, dyno tuning would all be needed for dual carbs to work better than stock on a 1975 engine. And that doesn't even get into choke(s), air filtration, etc. that would be needed to make it comparable from a drivability/longevity standpoint. OP, why do you think you want dual carbs?
  8. I don't see a line from the reservoir to the clutch. Is this car an automatic? Did you have the seat belt on when you tried to start it?
  9. L is "langwaffe" (Long Wave) and in the US we usually refer to it as weather band. M is AM and U is FM. As a general rule, if you have a US-market radio, the FM scale will go up to 108 and Euro-market radios will go up to only 104. The labels on the buttons are just marked to signify which radio band the preset applies to. I know the buttons on later US radios would say "AM AM FM FM FM" instead of "M M U U U" and I've never seen a radio with L/M/K designations on the buttons that also had the 108 FM scale, but I'm certainly no authority on them.
  10. IIRC six-pin is mono, eight-pin is stereo. The "plugs" bridge the unamplified signal output from the tuner and the input to the on-board amp. Removing the plug and connecting a compliant accessory results in the tuner signal traveling through the accessory and back to the amp in the deck. Input switching is handled in the accessory itself. So, for instance, with a cassette deck the tuner signal is passed back through to the head unit whenever a cassette isn't playing. When a cassette is playing, the tuner signal is interrupted and the cassette signal is passed to the deck for amplification. Apart from going full "period-correct" and tracking down the original accessories, these sockets can be used to add bluetooth, external amplifiers, whatever you want so you can run audio from your phone into modern speakers (if that's your thing) without having some ugly "portable rave" sullying your dashboard.
  11. I'm running 165/80/13 (and I absolutely love them) but it seems like they might be slightly taller than the original tires because I feel like my speedo reads a smidge low whenever I have the opportunity to check against a radar sign. I suppose someone could have had the speedo recalibrated for the wrong size tire, or maybe it's just showing it's age. I'd prefer it read either dead on or 1-2 mph fast. Is there any futzing one can do at home say with an electric drill? My trip meter stalled and I'm going to be pulling the speedo out anyway. Why leave well enough alone? 😆
  12. I agree with you. Same exact symptom with an entirely different carb says it's either fuel supply to the carb or spark. If it were inadequate fuel supply it should be worse under load. The trouble clearing itself after cool-down points to overheating. OP, is the engine using a Tii distributor? It would probably run better with a pre-smog non-Tii version, or a 123.
  13. Agreed. Also note that the float settings are different for plastic vs brass so double-check the specs. Next time it stalls pull a plug or two out. If they're wet with fuel, it's flooding. Loaded with dry black soot suggests rich depending on fuel but modern additives leave most of the plug except for the tip of the electrodes pretty black even when the mixture is right. If everything is dry white, tan or brown, lighter than say chocolate brown, it's running lean. Whats between the pressure regulator and the carb, besides rubber hose? And with the pressure regulator, keep in mind you want less than 3psi, preferably no more than 2.
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