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About Jimmy

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  1. Oh God. Seriously, do not buy a car listed in the states without having someone you trust personally verify that you are actually getting what is being represented. An alarming number of what I'll call "off-brand" collector car websites are scams in their entirety, often featuring pictures and descriptions of completely different cars, or listings of cars that are not actually for sale by the real owner, with photos and descriptions stolen from previous ads. Opportunists here have identified the BMW 2002 and air-cooled Porsche market as currencies of their own to be speculated upon and traded in. Even when the deal is "legit," high prices on BAT leave a lot of room for scammers to misrepresent and flip turds at what would be plausible prices if the cars were really what they said they were. Don't be someone's sucker.
  2. I agree. This looks like it could be a so-called "rebody" which in various forms is essentially passing off a car that isn't actually the car represented by the title. In other words, a VIN swap. Chop shops do this. Why would a 2002 be "restored" with 1600-2/1602 parts?
  3. When I got new ball joints from him, he sent me enough to do three. It was fortunate as I #%^*ed up the first one and had to re-do it.
  4. That's just uncalled for. Some people like E21s.
  5. It's getting more common to find ads like this on craigslist and the ones that aren't outright scams typically turn out that the seller has no intention of letting the car go for the advertised price but is rather interested in starting a bidding war in lieu of letting the car go too cheaply. I'm not surprised at all at a lack of response. I predict any responses will be either some sort of attempt at getting you to wire money (scam) or it will be a "I already have an offer of (this amount) on the car but if you're willing to make a better offer I'll consider it" (hustle). Good luck.
  6. The thing about ZDDP is that it can only form a protective layer so thick on the metal regardless of the percentage of it in a given oil. It's also a consumable in the oil that gets used up over time. All else being equal, a motor oil with lower ZDDP won't protect any worse on day one than a motor oil with an excessive percentage of it unless it has little to no ZDDP to begin with. It's the rate at which it's depleted (and thus the safe oil change interval) that is impacted by the initial amount in the oil. For example, an oil with 800ppm isn't going to protect a cam 30% less than an oil with 1200ppm, it's going to protect it for a 30% shorter amount of time before the ZDDP is depleted. I have no idea what Valvoline did 20 years ago and it sucks that it wiped your cam. Cheers.
  7. Sounds like I guessed wrong. How long ago was this? Which Valvoline product?VR-1 or something else? Cheers.
  8. Street driven car? My first guess would be idling with high lift and stiff springs killed the cam. I don't know if any oil would have saved it. Too much ZDDP will accelerate wear too, as will changing oil too frequently with high detergent oil, as will dilution...
  9. Citation needed. Mobil changed their formulations for 10w30 and below.
  10. So many questions: What oil were you running when it failed? what oil filter? what rpms was it running prior to failure? what valve springs? What failed, the lobes or the bearings or both? Cheers
  11. As you have discovered, once the fastener is tightened, the key isn't necessary. These keys can be critical on certain engine parts due their location of a component like a vibration damper on a crank, where something like timing could be affected by how they're clocked. On something like an alternator that doesn't have a clocked pulley position, their only useful purpose is to allow you to use the pulley to hold the shaft as you remove or tighten the nut that holds the pulley on. Like others have suggested, woodruff keys are readily available at the hardware store. My local Ace franchise has a couple bins full of them. Cheers
  12. M1 15w50. It pours easier at room temperature 😆
  13. *yawn* I'm pretty sure you could run oil from the dollar store and the guides and rings would still fail before the cam if you kept up on valve adjustments.
  14. When I replaced the calipers, hoses, and wheel cylinders in my car, I did not get pedal the first time through the bleeding sequence. Did you adjust the shoes until they drag on the drums? That may help bleeding, you can readjust them later. I didn't use a pressure bleeder, I just went around twice before I got pedal, then one more time until I got clean fluid from each corner. Make sure you're bleeding the front calipers in the correct order. Also make sure you're getting all of the bleeders closed in time.

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