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Showing results for tags '32/36'.
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Having spent some time sorting out my ignition, I was pretty happy with how my car is running. The idle is a lot more stable than it was before but I can still detect a slight miss fire occasionally. Coincidentally to finishing the ignition I noted that I had a problem with the water choke on my 32/36. This was normally as regular as clockwork but for some reason had stopped engaging. I took the air cleaner off to watch the operation of the choke and while I was there I looked down into the primary choke. When the throttle was opened a fine mist of fuel was present as the engines vacuum p
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What's the best source for a new carb? So far found 2 good prices at: http://www.carburetion.com/Products/ProductDetails.aspx?part=22680.033B ($220) and https://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-Weber-32-36-DGEV-Progressive-Carburetor-Electric-Choke-Carb-22680-033B/151794195796 ($219) Any other reco's?
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I know this question may open up the flame throwers and there are a million possible answers. This car will be driven on the street. It seems the 32/36 is the most "streetable option." and what is currently on my de smogged 75. I would like the option of having a bit of performance available for some grins and to be able merge onto the freeway without running out of on ramp while getting up to speed. It is in the process of getting a 5 speed, a 3.91 LSD and it has a 215mm flywheel. Not considering a sync link (yet). Pertonix igniter guts on what I believe it is the original dizzy that came on the 75. If I am going to stick with a 32/36 the most (air-restricted carburetor aside from the single barrel Solex) and I want to max out its capabilities: (This is not a jetting, idle, float question-those will be needed after the following): Which pistons? What cam would be the best option? Would performance exhaust headers make any significant difference? Anything else? If all was said and done, what would be the estimated horsepower and torque?
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FEEL FREE TO MAKE OFFER - I would rather these parts be put to good use. I have some 2002 parts I am starting to clear out. Let me know what you are interested in and I will let you know actual cost to ship. Contact me at [email protected] or text 858-208-8449 Weber 32/36 DGAV - This came off a well running TI motor - $100 Solex 36-40 PDSI - I have two of these - $50 EA Fuel pump original old version for 1502, 1602, 1802, 2002 from 08/73 up only with pump rod 88 mm length (part number 13 31 1 255 727) - $30 EA Fuel pump 1502,1602,1802,2002 only with pump rod 108 mm length (part number 13 31 1 250 398) -$50 Chrome 13" hubcaps for Early 2002 - $80 for all 5 -
Hey Guys, I've got a carb situation on my hands that is the, "I am lucky stuff didn't burst into flames" severity. I need some help as carbs is something I've very little experience with aside from small adjustments/tuning. My problems consist of: completely missing my secondary throttle rod. open butterfly poor engagement and slipping inside choke / throttle / butterfly and most importantly; 4. gas leakage from throttle body, lower throttle rod assembly throttle valve stud, and idle air valve (I THINK!). I would greatly appreciate suggested plans of action / possible parts availability / links to similar threads. I'd be stoked if ya'll had a few old donor bits lying around or possibly best / straight-forward replacements. I don't want to do any grinding or mods on the intake manifold and I'd love to stick with the original 32/32 carb (whether it be replaced entirely or rebuilt). its unfortunate I am missing parts putting me past a simple rebuild kit... but I don't even know if it will be worth the rebuild as I've never done it before and I've heard of to many horror stories of rebuilding and failing 4-5 times in a row. I know the whole thing is is super grimy. A clean up is fully intended. Let me know your thoughts! I would even appreciate a text or call if you've got the time. Located in Portland, Oregon. Grayson IMG_7641.MOV -
Good condition 32/36, could use a rebuild. Includes Redline rebuild kit made for 32/36 Also comes with linkage Selling because I upgraded carb. 175 OBO -
I put in a new Weber 32/36 imn my '76 about 4 months ago. Ran great for about 200 miles. Now it will cruise just fine but will die if I let off the gas. I replaced the Electric Fuel Pump at the same time. The new pump was advertised at 4 to 6 psi, but it tests at 10 to 11 psi. Have I blown something in the new carb? Also, any recommendations for a different fuel pump(Rotary Vane or other)?
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Howdy, I didn't do a search AFR go 2 points lean at about 4000-4200rpm under light load only. Carb is jetting fairly stock-ly and performing well at other loads and RPMs. Timing is 123. Cam is a very mild Schrick and compression is 9-ish to one. Stock exhaust other than tii manifold and loose baffles in center muffler (to be remedied tomorrow). Usually to compensate, I just go faster. TIA,
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for sale 2 barrel intake manifold
lilcphoto posted a topic in BMW 2002 and Neue Klasse Parts For Sale
Price:: 50 Location: : Portland I have for sale an intake manifold that I picked up along with a head. I have since sold the head, and have no need for a manifold that I am not planning on using. The previous owner painted it black. I've never used it nor seen it run, but it appears to be in good condition. sold as is, shipping can be arranged if theres interest. -
Hi so i went and tried to rebuild a Weber 32/36 DGAV carb as it was leaking fuel. Its a 75 BMW 2002 mostly stock with an electric ignition. Car did run before rebuild. Now when I turn the key it just keeps cranking. Theirs fuel in the bowl of the carb. I dont think the carb getting fuel is the problem. but I do think it's the carb because it ran before but wont now. Spark plugs distributor are all fairly new. Thanks Henry -
Hey everyone - I'm a noob on '02 FAQ, but have already found a wealth of information. Thanks! I wanted to share these step-by-step instructions on the rebuild of a Weber 32/36 DGAV carb, found on another forum. They are CONCISE, and have pictures for each and every step. Probably more information than many of you need, but I couldn't do without it. Enjoy: http://www.mk3supra.org/topic/561-guide-rebuilding-a-weber-3236-dgav-carb/ -
I have a 1973 2002 that has been sitting for about a year an a half because I've been recovering from a back injury. The last time I drove the car, I went to get some gas on my home, and when I went to turn the car back on it was completely dead. After some guys helped my push start it, I drove it home and parked. Fast forward to this afternoon, I removed the air filter on the carb to be able to inspect my starter and being new and naive to working on cars, I stupidly pushed on the choke plates on the carburetor (closing them, they had been about half way open before that). After reconnecting the wire that had come loose from my starter I went to start the car and I can't get it to start. I had some help while trying to start it, I would pour a very small amount of gas into the carb while my wife tried starting the car. The car will turn over and start up but die immediately. I feel like it might have been my "adjustment" on the carburetor that is causing the issue, that or a faulty fuel pump. I have questions, do you all (without a doubt more knowledgeable about cars than me) think it is the fact that I pushed on the choke plates, closing them. Or could it be the mechanical fuel pump, which has always seemed a bit weak (I've had the car for 11 years). OR... am I just way off in your estimation, what else could it be? Thanks for any knowledge you may be able to impart. Cheers!
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I searched all over the forum and never found the answer, so I thought I would document it here. The input on a Weber 32/36 (with a threaded fitting on the end) is a 1/8 -27 NPT fitting. How do I know... i spent some time at Home Depot and the at Canadian Tire today going through the dies and taps. I happened to have a spare lid off an old junk carb that I could use. The interesting part is that the threaded bore seems to be tapered quickly, so if you put in a 1/8" pipe fitting you get two threads in and then it starts to bind... but if you match the bolt to a die, it goes on perfectly. So if you are running AN style fittings for your fuel delivery hose to your Weber, you need to get a 1/8" to -6 or -4 AN line. I will post pics once I have my line installed. As always use Teflon paste, not tape, to seal between the 1/8 fitting and the carb (if you feel you need to).
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I recently purchased a 1976 2002. The weber 32/36 carb was off the motor so I rebuilt it. When putting it back on the vehicle, I'm a bit confused as to where certain hoses go. I don't live in California so I don't need all the emissions stuff but there are some funky splits going on with some of the hoses and top hole on the water choke connected to the weber carb is plugged. Please see the write up I did in the three attachments below. Any help would be greatly appreciated. FYI, not all these photos are of my vehicle. Only photos 3 and 6 are my car. -
Hey, anybody got any instructions for adjusting the choke pull off diaphragm on a 32/36? The only instructions I have seen were from a Ford manual and imply that a drill (no size given) is used as a gauge to determine the correct opening of the choke plates while the screw at the end of the diaphragm, underneath the plug, is adjusted. The are similar instructions for adjusting the very similar water choke on the Solex carb. Any idea how big the gap is? -
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I have a 74 base I just rebuilt the top and bottom end and noticed that it is running a little lean, can anyone point out the air/fuel mixture screw if there is one on the weber 32/36 carb I've been having a hard time finding information on this. thanks
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The Weber carb on my 2002 persistently leaks around the fuel hose inlet. I've replaced the hose from the fuel pump, and tried various clamps. I can't see anything wrong with the nipple the hose fits on - it looks clean and round. The carb itself I have refurbished with a rebuild kit from Weber. The small basket filter underneath the inlet nipple was cleaned and is clear. Fuel does get into the carb: I can see it in the float chamber looking from above, and with the engine running, fuel is dribbling into the main barrel (which is perhaps not right - shouldn't it be a spray?) When the engine is running, droplets of fuel are falling from the exterior of the inlet hose every few seconds, which makes me very nervous :-) My guess is that there is too much pressure, perhaps caused by an obstruction, but, as I say, the carb has been refurbished and I believe it is clean. The mechanical fuel pump is in good condition, and internally clean. Any advice would be most welcome - thanks! -
installed a weber 32/36 with a manual choke, but my choke cable is too short and wont reach the linkage. is there an adapter? or a longer cable? im sure others have had this problem....
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so i was installing some new rubber fuel lines. and i bought the 5/16th ID fuel line. and taking a look at the older fuel lines. and they seem to be a much small diameter. i worry that the larger fuel line isnt letting my electric low pressure electric pump build the pressure it needs to push the fuel to my weber carburetor. my car runs with sometimes when i begin to give it throttle, it will bog down very harshly. i believe this to possibly be a not-so-well tuned carburetor. but would the different diamater fuel line make a difference? also, what is a good fuel pressure regulator for the money? right now i am not running a regulator.
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- Hello '02 Everyone, Spring Has Sprung And SO . . . . It's Time For Some SPRING CLEANING! To Date I Have Shipped Over #1,005+ Orders in Over 21 Countries With #300+ 2002 Friends : ) * Same-Day Shipping = Your Order * THE SPRING SALE CONTINUES, TAKE -DISCOUNT% OFF = ALL ITEMS ACROSS-THE-BOARD, -20% OFF = MOST ITEMS, AND SOME ITEMS ARE -30% OFF !! Go To That Listing Here ----- > OKAY . . . . . THE Bottom-Line: -DISCOUNT% OFF of Regular Price for E-V-E-R-Y-T-H-I-N-G In Stock . . . . . SO "Pick-Your-Part" and it is probably here in Excellent Condition! * . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ( CURRENT SALE DOES NOT INCLUDE PEDAL BOX OR HEATER BOX RESTORATIONS) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . * !!! BELOW A WEBER 32/36 WATER CHOKE CARBURETOR IN NEAR-NEW SHAPE !! IS A REPLACEMENT UNIT FROM A '75 WITH VERY LITTLE WEAR !!! !!! THIS WATER CHOKE CARBURETOR WITH ALL FITTINGS IS PRICED FOR MORE THAN $320 NEW FROM ONLINE SOURCES!!! NORMAL PRICE IS -50% OF NEW @ $165 -- BUT IN KEEPING WITH SPRING SALE THERE IS ANOTHER -15% OFF DISCOUNT !! @ $140 . . . . GREAT SALE PRICE !!! THIS CARBURETOR WORKHORSE IS IN EXCELLENT -- WORKING CONDITION AND READY TO GO!! -- COMES WITH ALL HOSES AND FITTINGS : ) EXCELLENT & COMPLETE AWESOME VALUE COMPARED TO ONLINE SOURCES -- SAVE -66% OFF VERSUS "NEW" ELSEWHERE SAVING $180 !! MOTOR AND CARBURETOR RAN GREAT -- '75 WAS TOTALED IN ACCIDENT - REPLACEMENT UNIT LITTLE WEAR AND LOADS OF LIFE LEFT : ) VERY LITTLE CARBON, DIRT OR ANY BUILD-UP AT ALL. ANALOGUE WATER CHOKE IS A NICE WAY TO GO = SMOOTH OPERATION : ) Currently Low On M10 Motors, Headlights & Tail Lights -- Have Several E-12 Heads and one 121 Head Casting (No Valves, OR CAM), Intake Manifold, Six Pedal Boxes, Three Steering Boxes, Seven Consoles, Eleven Sets of USA Turn Signals, Six Valve Covers, Eight Radiator Fans, Dozens of Vent Knobs, Vent Window Actuators, Chrome Door Finishers, Quarter Chrome Finishers, Chrome Vent Window Frames, Sport Wheels, Steering Wheels, 4-Speed Trannies, Drive Shafts, CV Half Shafts, Hubs, Subframes, Window Glass, Loads Of Belt Trim, Lower Body Trim, Plenty Of Sheet Metal = Doors, Hoods, Deck Lids, Quarter Panels, Tail Clips, Nose Clips, Window Regulators Door Hardware, Seat Belts, Grills, Lights, Brackets, Linkage, Switches, Relays, Trim, Gaskets, and Much, Much, More. Unfortunately, NO DOOR GASKETS, SQUARE TAIL LIGHTS, NON-CRACKED DASHBOARDS At This Time. BELOW IS AN ACCURATE LIST OF CURRENT INVENTORY. PLEASE FEEL FREE TO CALL OR TEXT ME FOR MORE SPECIFIC INFORMATION: ALSO: If There Is Something Not On The List, OR If You Have Any Questions: Please Call: 303 - 999 - 1190 1.) ALL '02 ITEMS ARE ON A 1ST-COME-1ST-SERVE" BASIS. 2.) REQUESTS ARE HONORED IN THE ORDER THAT THEY ARE RECEIVED. 3.) PAYMENT IS DUE WITH PACKAGING, NOT BEFORE. * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * PAYMENT IS VIA: Google Wallet for FREE OR SquareUp Credit Card Invoice for + 2.75% More You are Welcome to Contact me directly, Call OR Text: 303 - 999 - 1190 WEBER 32/36 Carburetor Fits a USPS Medium Priority Mail Flat-rate Box which is $15.45 with Insurance (Included)= Simple Enough In General Shipping is most commonly via USPS with the Parcel Select service which is Distance sensitive. Here, the weight of the package determines the Shipping cost. OR Priority Mail which is Flat-rate in standard boxes "If It Fits – It Ships" Large Packages between 60 lbs. and 100 lbs. may ship FedEx Ground. Larger shipments heavier than 100 lbs. are sent via Common Carrier with Pilot Freight who has 75 warehouses in major cities around the country. Every Single Package is Shipped with Insurance. I will ship to anywhere in the World : ) As always, thanks for Looking! Bryce Feel Free to Call OR Text Bryce: 303 -- 999 -- 1190 Always the Fastest Method! -
Weber 32/36 Synchronous Link Jetting Perscription
silasmoon posted a topic in BMW 2002 and other '02
So after a bit of grinding and banging I finally installed my synchronous link, I got to say the one from pierce manifolds was NOT machined very well. It wanted to bind on the old actuation arm and inside the channel for the pin to slide in. It took a fair bit of filing to get it smooth. Overpriced in my opinion. Anywho - here is my recommendation: Main: Primary 140 / Secondary 140 Air: Primary 145 / Secondary 170 Idle: Primary 60 / Secondary 55 -
I'm working on a '76 that has a Weber 32/36 which was put on a long time ago, let just say it happened before I was a twinkle in anyone eye's. The problem is I can't seem to get the secondary to kick in. I know that when you convert to a weber you need to grid out part of the intake manifold to allow the secondary to have room to operate. So far so good. My question is does anyone have a good way to go about this. How much to take out, what kind of tools to use to grind material the out, and how to keep metal shaving from going down the intake? Any advise is greatly appreciated.....
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Background: this is a '73 with the original engine, pertronix points and a Weber 32/36 with water choke. The car hasn't been driven regularly for some years, but everything "works" - I've been mainly doing r&r on things like new plugs, wires, oil, filters, seals, setting timing, etc.. Now I am ready to go out on the road, but have a couple of issues before I do so. The main issue is I seem to be running very rich - there is grey smoke out of the exhaust once the engine starts to warm up, and the plugs are sooty. I'd like to put some miles on the engine before getting too hung up on tuning etc., but the state it's in is producing too much smoke to drive without a gas mask My feeling is that the carb is set up incorrectly. Here's what I have: 1) brass floats: level set to 41mm when valve closed, measured from gasket to extremity of both floats, level set to 51mm when floats at bottom of travel 2) idle jets: 50 on primary, 55 on secondary (I also tried 60 on primary, but that was predictably worse) 3) main jets: 125 on primary, 127 on secondary 4) correction jets: 175 and 170 5) emulsion: both F50 6) discharge: 50 I start with the idle mixture screw 1 1/2 turns out from fully closed - the engine starts (but without enthusiasm). Turning clockwise (leaner) the engine starts to stumble. Engine seems happiest when the screw is about 2 turns out - which is apparently OK according to what I've read. Vacuum on the manifold is 20mmHg at idle. I'm pretty confident I have no vacuum leaks. Air filter is removed for these tests. Observation: before the engine warms up, if I open the choke butterflys by hand, revs go up. This suggest that I'm running too rich, doesn't it? After the engine warms up, butterflys open completely, as they should. By the time the engine is warmed up, the guff from the exhaust is choking! Any comments/suggestions? Any local experts in Pasadena who'd be prepared to take a look? I feel like I may be missing something basic related or unrelated to the carb!
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1.6L with weber 32/36 manual choke and universal lo pressure fuel pump. when cold, my car wont idle on its own. it will just keep cranking until i push my pedal to the floor then it will fire up and i usually will have to warm it up a little before it will idle on its own. (when the engine is cold i pull the choke all the way and nothing changes!)
