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Jimmy

Alpina
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Everything posted by Jimmy

  1. I promise I google searched the site before asking this. The rubber strip on the knee trim on my door is removing itself from the knee trim and I want to re-stick it. I'd prefer to use a product known for longevity in this particular application as I do not want to randomly lose the rubber strip at high speed at some point in the future. Any proven products known to the group? Thanks in advance.
  2. Those "Holley" (they licensed the name to a Chinese manufacturer) LEDs are more "SEMA" garbage. If you want good headlights get Koito H4s with proper incandescent bulbs in them. If you want blurry bright garbage and don't care about other drivers do whatever. Cheers, Jim
  3. They were meant to be single use. The "5 mph" part just means a 5 mph impact cannot damage lights, the engine, or anything related to the safety of the vehicle like brakes or fuel system. In 1980 they expanded the law to limit allowable damage to the bumper itself. Even if the shocks are compressed because they have taken an impact and were not drilled and "pushed in" or "tucked" by someone for stylistic reasons, it's common for the moving parts to be scratched as they compress together, damaging the metal and potentially the seal. If one could successfully pull them back out, and the seal, oil, and nitrogen remained intact, the scraped portion is likely to rust resulting in impaired function in a subsequent impact. It's also common in cases where only one side compressed that the uncompressed side gets bent a bit and doesn't compress as easily if at all. That being said, an original shock on a driver that's been aged and weathered may not function as intended, either. If you just want it to look better, pull it out with a chain. If you want it to work as new, find some new shocks or have yours repaired and restored. I have no idea what the prospects are for either option.
  4. I'm running Falken Sincera SN832s in 165/80/13. I love them. At the time they cost just more than half what a set of Cinturatos would have. They're well-liked tires, too, not your typical "well we have one tire in that size from a no-name brand in Asia" stuff. FALKEN SINCERA SN832 HIGHEST RANKING IN THE ADAC SUMMER TYRE TEST WWW.FALKENTYRE.COM The Falken Sincera SN832 was chosen as overall winner in the latest summer tyre tests conducted by the...
  5. It looks like BMW has jumped the shark. Tsk tsk. "Today, the BMW E10 range is a long-established classic BMW and has become a favorite of many vintage car fans"
  6. "under 11 seconds" ? That side mirror alignment is curious. I don't think I've ever seen an NK sedan mirror adjusted like that in real life. I wonder if they can touch the A pillar if they're oriented horizontally.
  7. Regen is tricky. To really work well it needs to be customized to the particular vehicle's characteristics. Because it's most beneficial applied as dynamically as possible, regen on production vehicles is integrated into the ABS/traction control so it can be reduced or disabled in low/no traction conditions. It needs to be regulated based on the battery's ability to accept a charge at any given time which varies with the type of battery, battery temperature, and battery charge level. Then there's proper brake blending so the regen works in concert with the service brakes regardless how much the regen is modulated. Some hybrids do this poorly even with big money invested in development. EVs seem a bit better. It's a lot of stuff to get right when piecing a system together.
  8. The problem with so-called clean hydrogen is that it uses renewable energy to derive the hydrogen from water. If you just use the renewable energy to charge an EV instead of using it to make hydrogen for combustion, you skip the thermally inefficient internal combustion process, the NOx emissions, the hydrogen tank that when charged to 10,000 psi needs to be seven times the size of a gas tank to store the equivalent energy of gasoline and the 25% efficiency at the wheels. You also can't simply convert an engine to hydrogen the way you can with propane. Spark fired direct injection is the "best" option which eliminates most engines older than 20 years without consideration to the substantial changes that would need to be engineered. Hydrogen is a ruse Toyota has been working on for a long time to stave off the demise of highly-profitable internal combustion engine vehicles.
  9. Yes, of course, my correct use of the term is going to be the tipping point and not the fact that it has been vomited all over the internet by every merchant desperate for another keyword and every hipster with nothing substantive to say. ?
  10. Technically the M10 is derived from the earlier motors. ? Let me put it this way; If someone asks a 1600-2 owner if they have an M10, if the engine is original they generally reply "yes" not "no, it's a 1.6." Likewise, if someone uses the term "E10" to refer to a roundie, it's wrong and annoys those of us who skew a bit pedantic, but we all know what they mean. For me "E10" is much more convenient to type than "square tail" or "Modell 73."
  11. It's understandable that they would prefer to standardize on a term that applies to the entire range of models rather than one that is applicable only to a subset. It's funny how some folks feathers get ruffled over "E10" but in contrast "M10" wasn't used to refer to the four cylinder engine before 1975 yet everyone happily uses that term instead of M05 or M15.
  12. Can we have the option to choose the old mobile theme if we acknowledge that the new theme is the way forward and promise not to bitch about the old theme displaying new theme stuff improperly or whatever the reason for taking it away was? I don't think I'm cool enough for the new version, at least not yet.
  13. Have you seen them? You don't really want these seats, do you? Just get some seat covers from AutoZone.
  14. I was a principal owner in middle school.
  15. The green LED game was bull**** on mine, after a couple attempts at trying to replicate what they described I finally disregarded the setup instructions and used logic instead, which I should have done in the first place.
  16. Right. If you mark the alignment of the rotor/shaft with the body of the distributor before you loosen anything up you should be able to completely remove it, reclock it, reinstall it, verify alignment, and start it and fine tune the timing. It's really no big deal.
  17. The distributor doesn't care which direction it's installed in the car. Remove it, rotate the entire distributor, and replace it. This is common practice to correctly orient the vacuum canister on distributors once the car is running and tuned.
  18. Me too. I can't remember if I used an extension with a deep socket or if the deep socket was enough. I just meant that he didn't need a breaker bar or impact wrench or anything silly.
  19. My father in law put the Saturn electric power steering in his enduro car to reduce fatigue. He's happy with it. I've not driven it enough to comment on the impact it has had on the feel, feedback, character, etc that everyone always whines about with electric steering. I do wonder about the amp draw of the motor paired with the tiny race car battery, but no issues so far.
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