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Jimmy

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Everything posted by Jimmy

  1. Jimmy
    Lucian, this brought a tear to my eye. So glad to see the car back on the road and so glad you weren't injured more seriously. I love a happy ending.
  2. Jimmy
    There's a few more pretty common ones. The "credibility" guy who makes it into a pointless story all about himself: "If I didn't already have a one-owner AAR 'Cuda and a Gullwing SL I would be forced to bid on this. The color reminds me of the 930 I had when first read about those cars coming out. I didn't buy it because my wife wanted a family car so we did European delivery on a Merc Wagon..." The arrogant incorrect alleged former owner spewing untruths: "They ALL had that feature, I should know, I OWNED one." The alleged bystanders who totally aren't shills who get all butthurt on behalf of a seller when a polished turd gets picked apart for being so. "I don't care how original a car is I would enjoy driving it no matter what anyone thinks." As if it's merely a matter of taste and not one of value. The leghumpers who spew superlatives and glws on every auction.
  3. Jimmy
    Wind a spiral around it to perturb the air, something like so: My antenna doesn't whistle. I wonder if it's broken.
  4. Jimmy
    Lolo pass?
  5. Jimmy
    If you want to be efficient you could just send the prize to Barney now. ?
  6. Jimmy
    Coker, too. Are they owned by Tire Rack (or ECS? ?) https://www.cokertire.com/tires/vredestein-sprint-classic-narrow-tread.html No such mention on Vredestein's website, at least not anywhere conspicuous on the tire info page. Maybe it's just Tire Rack being weasels.
  7. Jimmy
    Awesome. I bet he was fun to ride with. That era of VW used a cable actuated clutch so it would be less difficult to retrofit the Autostick solenoid for clutch operation. Didn't 1600s use some kind of non-hydraulic clutch linkage? Maybe someone who knows more about the differences can chime in on suitability for such a retrofit. Cheers, Jim
  8. Jimmy
    He doesn't know what parts were used. He bought it from another paraplegic who stopped driving it. It's not perfect. The release is regulated so it has a relatively slow engagement of the clutch to facilitate starting from a stop and starting on hills. It takes probably 1.5-2 seconds. It's not variable, it engages that slowly every time. It's not a drag racer. I presume someone with motivation could work out a control method for slow and fast release. I'm pretty sure my friend's car was converted in the 80s or even 70s. The VW version used a torque converter or something functionally similar like maybe a viscous coupling. It didn't have to be shifted into neutral at stops. Implementing something like that from scratch would likely be more work than fitting an automatic, but it's possible there's an automatic out there that shares enough design with a manual that an accomplished machinist could make it happen. I recall GM studying or perhaps producing both manual and automatic transmissions based on the same design. It may just have been giving the customer an automatic that didn't shift itself and calling it a manual.
  9. Jimmy
    (Checks the calendar. Nope, not April anymore) FFS.
  10. Jimmy
    Even assuming an adapter plate could be made and there were no issues with starter location etc I struggle to come up with a RWD/longi 5-speed auto that I would characterize as "good." BMW used a GM 5-speed in the late 90s/early 00s that is complete garbage. Toyota turned one of their best 4-speeds into a 5-speed and made it quirky and troublesome. Why is a crappy 5-speed slushbox better than a crappy 4-speed slushbox? If you could even get one to fit and perform basic functions, the final product wouldn't be worth the trouble IMO. Why not just have an electrically actuated clutch linkage installed on the manual transmission so you can operate the clutch from a button on the shift lever? A friend of mine is paralyzed from the waist down and he drives a manual. VW sold bugs with electric triggering of pneumatically operated clutch, so the clutch was disengaged when you pressed down the shift knob and re-engaged when you let go. It's not a new idea. Cheers.
  11. Jimmy
    That site doesn't make obvious the cold temperature warnings for the Sprint Classic. I'm also confused by the M+S rating. I know it won't matter for those where tires are removed from the car and the cars get put away for several months each year. But for others who would be well served by an all-season tire, they're not an option. From the Sprint Classic listing over at Tire Rack: "The Sprint Classic is Vredestein's Grand Touring Summer tire developed for drivers of classic automobiles who want a tire with vintage style combined with modern technology. Like all summer tires, the Sprint Classic is not intended to be serviced, stored nor driven in near- and below-freezing temperatures, through snow or on ice." and "Note: Tires exposed to temperatures of 20 degrees F (-7 degrees C) or lower must be permitted to gradually return to temperatures of at least 40 degrees F (5 degrees C) for at least 24 hours before they are flexed in any manner, such as by adjusting inflation pressures, mounting them on wheels, or using them to support, roll or drive a vehicle." Cheers
  12. Jimmy
    Kuni never was in Portland proper, their BMW dealership opened in Beaverton in '72. It moved 10-15 years ago within Beaverton. It got absorbed by a big multi dealer group several years ago. I haven't done business with them so I can't comment on any heritage or reputation. As far as the frame goes, there was a very similar one but with a Cadillac logo on the left instead of having a roundel on each side. There's also one with Kuni at the top and Portland - Beaverton at the bottom. I don't know the era of any of them.
  13. Jimmy
    What's the timeframe look like? I'm afraid I won't be able to get away from work long enough.
  14. Jimmy
    (bids €10 on a roundie)
  15. Jimmy
    Oh God. Seriously, do not buy a car listed in the states without having someone you trust personally verify that you are actually getting what is being represented. An alarming number of what I'll call "off-brand" collector car websites are scams in their entirety, often featuring pictures and descriptions of completely different cars, or listings of cars that are not actually for sale by the real owner, with photos and descriptions stolen from previous ads. Opportunists here have identified the BMW 2002 and air-cooled Porsche market as currencies of their own to be speculated upon and traded in. Even when the deal is "legit," high prices on BAT leave a lot of room for scammers to misrepresent and flip turds at what would be plausible prices if the cars were really what they said they were. Don't be someone's sucker.
  16. Jimmy
    I agree. This looks like it could be a so-called "rebody" which in various forms is essentially passing off a car that isn't actually the car represented by the title. In other words, a VIN swap. Chop shops do this. Why would a 2002 be "restored" with 1600-2/1602 parts?
  17. Jimmy
    When I got new ball joints from him, he sent me enough to do three. It was fortunate as I #%^*ed up the first one and had to re-do it.
  18. Jimmy
    That's just uncalled for. Some people like E21s.
  19. Jimmy
    It's getting more common to find ads like this on craigslist and the ones that aren't outright scams typically turn out that the seller has no intention of letting the car go for the advertised price but is rather interested in starting a bidding war in lieu of letting the car go too cheaply. I'm not surprised at all at a lack of response. I predict any responses will be either some sort of attempt at getting you to wire money (scam) or it will be a "I already have an offer of (this amount) on the car but if you're willing to make a better offer I'll consider it" (hustle). Good luck.
  20. Jimmy
    Some people thrive on controversy ?
  21. Jimmy
    I was thinking of the folks who apply the violently-American "If two's good, five's better" philosophy and go full retard with additives. At least they don't try to make their own tires or brake pads.
  22. Jimmy
    Let's not forget that phosphorus is critical to cam wear as well. It's the P in the ZDDP. .08%/800ppm is good for preventing wear on flat tappets up to 600 lbs of valve spring pressure. More (up to 1400ppm) buys you more use between oil changes presuming you're not washing the oil down with fuel. More than that and you cause other problems.
  23. Jimmy
    The thing about ZDDP is that it can only form a protective layer so thick on the metal regardless of the percentage of it in a given oil. It's also a consumable in the oil that gets used up over time. All else being equal, a motor oil with lower ZDDP won't protect any worse on day one than a motor oil with an excessive percentage of it unless it has little to no ZDDP to begin with. It's the rate at which it's depleted (and thus the safe oil change interval) that is impacted by the initial amount in the oil. For example, an oil with 800ppm isn't going to protect a cam 30% less than an oil with 1200ppm, it's going to protect it for a 30% shorter amount of time before the ZDDP is depleted. I have no idea what Valvoline did 20 years ago and it sucks that it wiped your cam. Cheers.
  24. Jimmy
    Sounds like I guessed wrong. How long ago was this? Which Valvoline product?VR-1 or something else? Cheers.
  25. Jimmy
    Street driven car? My first guess would be idling with high lift and stiff springs killed the cam. I don't know if any oil would have saved it. Too much ZDDP will accelerate wear too, as will changing oil too frequently with high detergent oil, as will dilution...
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