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  1. Tesoro is also in the process of getting heart transplant... First you see it... now you don't! I actually "test drove" 3 other 02s before deciding which "heart" would be the best fit. There was the 32/36, the 38/38, and the fuel injected tii engine. Tesoro originally had a 32/36 Weber when I bought him... but everything about his original set up was "tiresome"... The performance wasn't there. But it wasn't just the performance either... as mentioned in the earlier blogs, the whole engine and drivetrain needed some major TLC. And it's gonna get it! The plan is to upgrade to a 38/38 Weber wit
  2. Price includes slow shipping. In great physical condition. Have never run it on my car so can't be sure of how well tuned it is. IE hose and linkages pictured are included.
  3. NEED HELP! I'm nineteen and have been rebuilding my '74 for a year now and I started rebuilding my Weber 32/36 carburetor to replace the floats and some gaskets and have NO IDEA how to put it back together. The blueprint has been no help so far and I'm looking for any tips on putting it back together. Right now I have it broken down into the three main components and am stuck. ANY ADVICE HELPS. Thanks, Kevin
  4. I took photos of everything but I was not experienced enough to take more detailed photos of the engine. I had to (cringe ) take apart the carburetor to take out a loose screw on the bottom. I was dismayed to see that I didn't have the photo of the right side of the carburetor where there is a spring attached to an arm that is attached to the air flow flap (?). I searched online to see if I could find exactly how they are attached but I couldn't see any. Do you have a photo of your carburetor on the right side so that I can attach the arm the right way?
  5. Hey guys, I recently put in IE stage 2 headers to replace a stock sized exhaust with Stahl Headers. The engine has had a fair amount done and has dual weber dcoe 45's. I was hoping to (foolishly) make one drive to the exhaust shop with open headers. I had to move the car last night though, and the thing is stupidly loud and constantly backfiring what sounds like gunshots. Power is a joke and torque is basically non-existant. I realize that this is due to poor jetting/tune. I only have to limp 3 miles to the exhaust shop, but the 3 miles is through Chicago, filled with stoplights, stopsigns, and traffic. If I HAD to get in the car and drive it away, how should I tune my carbs? I don't exactly have a ton of time to sit there adjusting, as I'm in the city. My thought process says to richen the mixture, as the flow is higher. Thoughts?
  6. With all the swaps and builds going on, I don't think I have ever seen a thread dedicated to engine specs and dyno sheets.. Show us in pictures, the cold hard proof of what your mill is putting down. share with us the type of dyno, any specifics on engine type, engine specs, diff gearing, etc. Post baseline pulls before a build. Base line pulls during tuning, or just any pull! I think a thread of this sort would be invaluable for folks planning a motor build, motor swap, or motor build and swap. If you have never put your car on a dyno, it's thrilling.. go visit your friendly dynamometer operator today!
  7. Would anyone be able to recommend a site to purchase specific components for DCOEs? I am looking for a internal throttle return spring and retaining plate but can not find a site that offer BOTH the spring and the retaining plate, help would be appreciated. Backstory: I took off my carburetors last weekend to clean and do a mild rebuild. After opening the units it was clear that one of the carburetors is missing its internal throttle return spring for the pump jet, this is causing the carb not to close on its own. Beatrice had been running extremely rich and this is very likely the main culprit. The carbs had been linked together in a very rudimentary way, the issue unit was being compensated for by the fully functioning unit and a very strong return spring to that carburetor. This was causing issues down the line with a very short throttle pedal travel and extremely high effort that made anything less than WOT a stumbling, bumbling mess. I have attached a picture for clarity (this is AFTER a day of soaking in cleaner and an hour wire brushing by hand).
  8. Quick question about the Weber 32/36 fuel inlet (or inlets). Looking at the attached photo I found on Google, you'll notice one of the fuel inlets is plugged. My car doesn't have this plug - it's just open to the atmosphere. Would this negatively affect the performance of the carb, or should I leave it as is?
  9. I changed my idle jets from 60s to 55s to lean out the mixture at low rpm, small throttle opening, and need to reset idle mixture. Might try 50s still but that's not the reason I'm posting. The Pierce Manifolds website had a sheet posted that they claim is for the 38/38 but it only mentions one idle mixture screw. Looked at a number of posts found here and elsewhere on the internets using various combinations of "weber", "38", "idle" and "mixture". I didn't see this question answered specifically but feel free to point me at the answer if I just didn't find it; When adjusting idle mixture on the 38/38, should I adjust both together by the same amount in small increments, adjust individually for best idle for a couple rounds, making smaller tweaks each time, or other? I'm guessing that on an open plenum manifold, one barrel is doing more breathing at idle than the other and to expect slightly different settings from side to side, so I'm leaning toward adjusting each side individually. Thanks!
  10. Price:: 20 Location: : Rocklin, CA Two used cams appear to be in good condition. Likely identical stock profiles, but haven't measured or inspected closely for markings. $10 each Solex Carb from my 1974 Automatic. Was running but not great. Still has original BMW aluminum tag attached. $20. Text me if you are ready to come get these. Eric (916) 849-4780
  11. Price:: 215.00 Location: : Los Angeles Authentic WEBER DGAV 32/36 - SOLD Made in Spain, vintage 1998 For the last 9 months this has been on my car, no issues, starts right up, runs fine. You can bolt the carb on and drive it. selling price including shipping to the 48 states: $215.00 _SOLD Includes: Carburetor Linkage Bar Used K&N Filter as pictured
  12. My 1969 '02 with a Weber 32/36 was running fine, then suddenly started idling poorly and then would not idle at all. I first suspected a vacuum leak, but didn't find it despite 3 attempts to spray carb cleaner to raise idle at the leak. Because it had never been done, we did a complete tune up; same problems. Finally, our last attempt showed a massive leak at the carb base gasket - a new set of one fiber and one cork gasket that replaced my much thicker fiber gasket we had to remove when we restored the OEM filter/intake setup. Our home-made cork gasket failed and although looked fine, was leaking badly. QUESTION: We've been using cork gaskets for years with no problems on many vehicles. Is this yet another Ethanol problem?? What gasket materials do you use, and have you had similar experiences? Thanks!
  13. I bought these to potentially carb an M20, or to maybe test them against my Dellortos of the same era. But why mess with either? The e30 runs like a top, I can't afford an m20 build for the '02, and the DHLA-Hs on the M10 are great. So off the Webers go. If you aren't familiar with these guys, they are the last of the Italians. Weber's last dance within the DCO product line. And pretty much a direct copy of the Dellorto 'emissions' carbs. And, if you aren't' familiar with those, well, they are brilliant for a hot street motor where you want smooth city driving like a down draft, but the sex of the side draft. Snorting throttle, intake growl that says 'here I come', and a sexy engine compartment. Anyway, the late DCOM/DHLA have single hole in the bottom of the bowl because the idle and mains are conjoined and share the flow. You don't have to tune the progression phase, idle to main. Also, these have the externally tunable, diaphragm type accelerator pump. You can control the stroke/volume to 'easily' tune out any stumble that may occur when you trounce it. That's why I have grown to love my Dell's. I thought I may try these on the 02, for a comparison of the brands, but my car needs sheet metal tended to. So I am liquidating the distractions, and to support the cause.. Message me for more info.
  14. Hello all! About a two years ago I acquired a 1973 BMW 2002 that had been modded but then left to sit for a few years. As remembered by the previous owner, the specific engine mods were: E12 head with: All casting removed from rockers Rocker lockers 292 regrind Valve seats recut and hand lapped Port and polish Engine: 9.5:1 pistons Windage tray FLame Thrower coil Pertronix electronic ignition Intake: Lynx manifold with (1) Weber 45 DCOE with a 36 choke Exhaust: shorty headers straight pipe with resonator magnaflow/SuperTrapp interchangeable exhaust The car does run and drive decently enough but is running rich at idle and possibly elsewhere in the rev range. Also if the throttle is opened suddenly it seems to momentarily stumble or hesitate, making me think the injector pump isn't working or the wrong size. Once I get that pulled out, I'll know the size. It may also be happening during the transition from the idle to main circuit as, if I recall correctly, higher rpm rapid adjustments do not show this issue. Doing some research I have replaced the 55F6 idle jet and 155 air corrector with 50F8 and 195 respectively as prescribed by this site: http://cnx.org/contents/[email protected]/Selection-and-Tuning-of-Weber-. I also have a 200 air corrector jet. So currently it has: Idle: 50F8 Air corrector: 195 Emulsion Tube: F16 Main: 145 Starter Jets: 150 Accelerator Pump inlet valve: 40 Accelerator Pump Jets: 45 Pump Bleed Backs (not sure what these are?): TBA Pump Rods: TBA I have found that adjusting the idle mixture screws makes no noticeable difference to the idle. If the car is left to idle for a few minutes it will start to stumble and eventually quit. This can be postponed by engine reving to, I am guessing, clean the spark plugs (haven't had a chance to pull one yet). It also the exhaust smells very rich. I am guessing I need to further decrease the size of my idle jet to correct this? As for the main jet settings. Does anything stand out as being incorrect? I have the timing set at about stock but I don't believe the distributor is a Tii which from research means I don't have as good of an advance curve as I'd like? Any advice there? I have currently pulled the carb off the car to give it a quick cleaning, look over, and basic rebuild. I plan on buying one of those choke delete kits and removing that assembly from the equation since I have yet to ever need it or find it helpful. Any advice for or against that would be welcome. I am also planning on looking into an air/fuel mixture setup to assist in tuning and any recommendations or tips would be helpful. Thanks in advance for the help! Corey
  15. Price:: 400$ Location: : Thousand Oaks, California 91320 I sold my o2 a while back with the standard Weber Carb. Now looking to sell the Solex PHH 40 mm Sidedraft Carbs including manifold and sock style filters. I will also include the temporary throttle linkage and water bypass line I used when testing them on my 2002. The carbs are clean and came off my m10 build not too long ago. Ran without problems, I only took them off to sell the car. Sound like thunder Could use a few new gaskets here or there but those can be bought or cut by hand. Jetted for 2.0l with a street cam (292ish) Selling everything you see in the picture. I have close ups of internals for those who are interested Contact me at [email protected] -Robin
  16. Price:: 40 Location: : Marin County, CA Removed years ago and stored in a box on a shelf in garage. Someone has removed the idle jet/solenoid. Has SMOG legal Water Choke housing. Dirty on the outside, but throttles are clean. Comes with air cleaner adapter for stock air cleaner. I also have a new base gasket I will throw in.
  17. Weber 42 DCOE side draft carb with intake for sale. $1,200.00 I have run dual 40's on my BMW and this carb perform much better.
  18. So, I've only had my car on the road for about 2 or 3 weeks now and love the heck out of it! (1976 Base). Here's the problem I've been having lately and need some advice: Occasionally when driving, I'll get about 10 miles down the road and it starts to sputter, like it's the fuel filter. I'll pull over and change out the fuel filter then she picks right up and runs fine for another 10 miles (sometimes 20 or more) then it'll do it again. What's odd is that the fuel filter is clean!!!! Now when I first got her running this seemed normal, as I expected some garbage in the filter (and there was), but now the filter is clean each time. Could it just be remnants of bad gas I need to burn up still, or a fuel pressure issue?
  19. Newbie here, with a 1976 2002 (M10) and a carb question: In investigating a cold start issue, I discovered that the carb was modified by the PO. One intake has been blocked with screws, and the flap on the other one has been removed. Can you think of any reason I wouldn't want to try to restore the choke? The ignition system isn't stock, either (MSD system). RIght now I'm more concerned about reliability and fuel economy, which is non-existent at the moment, than with horsepower. Thanks in advance, Michael
  20. Price:: 1 Location: : Lawrenceville,GA I have the above for sale or trade. Prices are obo and I can do package deals Link to pics http://s1081.photobucket.com/user/lmmedina1993/library/Parts 150 for carb(38/38,electric choke) +shipping (year old) SOLD Clutch ,pp, FW 150 (less than 1k miles )+shipping E21 alt (year old) 70+ shipping. SOLD E21 starter 70+ shipping Slave cylinder(less than year old) 70 shipped All clutch/driveline parts have less than 1k on them
  21. Hey fairly new to the forum (first post) and new to my '02 as of April. So go easy on me. It has a weber 32/36 and I've been having the problem with there being a puddle of fuel in the intake manifold when I go to start it. I took it apart and cleaned it all, the needle and everything was in good shape. But I noticed last time I got it going and drove it that after a shut it off, there was fuel boiling in the float chamber and fuel was just pouring into the intake manifold. I adjusted the choke and got an adapter to put the stock air cleaner on and it seems like it's been worse lately so I think I need to adjust the choke to let more air in (it's also a lot worse now that it's summer). It runs like a dream when it's started and warm, just a pain to get it started with all of that fuel in the intake manifold. Please excuse any newb questions/comments lol Thanks
  22. Hello there. I'm looking for help replacing my carburetor/tuning it up. I've had this one rebuilt and then installed it myself in the past, but now it's totally gone dead. I have very little experience and am looking for someone who'd be willing to help me out with this project. The car has been sitting for a couple years at a friend's house, and now it's time to get it back in the shape it's meant to be. I've tried contacting Midnight Motorsports in West Seattle, but each time I tried to set something up, communication was cut off. I live in Wallingford, in Seattle. Thanks, Benjamin
  23. Hi everyone. I'm new to the site and forum. I've had a 1970 deuce for about 6 years now. I have a quick question that i'm hoping someone can help me out with. I recently got her back from my parent's house where i was storing her while living up in SF where i didn't need a car. She's not running as well as she used to. I got her a tune up and replaced the air filter, oil, etc. I've been told that i'm in need of a new carburetor, which makes sense to me since she flutters a little bit when given gas. I have the original single barrel carb and would like to stick with a single barrel. Does anyone have any experience with the below carb for sale? Or perhaps can you refer me to another single barrel carb for sale that works well? http://www.partsgeek.com/gbproducts/WC/13607-01009696.html?utm_content=YN&utm_term=1968-1971+BMW+2002+Carburetor+Kit+Redline+W0133-1604121+68-71+BMW+Carburetor+Kit+1969&fp=pp&gbm=a&utm_source=google&utm_medium=ff&utm_campaign=PartsGeek+Google+Base&gclid=Cj0KEQiAneujBRDcvL6f5uybhdABEiQA_ojMgnqs3t5AkNXn19ztFDXgpbLnxe7mbMWePjqc1yIAMegaArds8P8HAQ Thanks so much for your time, it's much appreciated. -dre
  24. Still a newby here but after reading several topics on carbs in here I wanted to see if there was any interest in a group buy on Weber 45 DCOE's. I have a good supplier, the manufacturer, however need to purchase a minimum of 12 units. Having just gone thru bilateral hip replacements for the second time I am a couple dollars short of buying and reselling these carbs by myself. I am just using this as a feeler to see if anyone is interested. The price will be right around $350 per carb, need two for a 4 cylinder or 3 for a six, shipped to your door. This will be on the Weber 45 DCOE although I can also get the 40's. They have air horns and do not come with the linkage or manifold. If there is enough interest I can get a quote on linkages and manifolds. Some of those buys are a little larger. Let me know if you are interested at $700 or under per set of carbs shipped to your door and I will go from there. John
  25. Consolidating items from two posts. Buyer is responsible for shipping costs. Brand new Cannon intake manifold. $180. SOLD Bosch vacuum retard dizzy. Part number 0 231 180 008 JFUD 4. Still in very usable condition, minimal play. Make me an offer. Brand new Bosch blue ignition coil. $30. Thanks, Garrett
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