Another NLA Part to Print: The Final Word (maybe)

[stephers]

I found this yesterday in my parts dept   I think that I also have a large one as well somewhere.  This one is almost perfect

[PaulTWinterton]

I'll be borrowing one of those from you to model. 

[PaulTWinterton]

Modeling done!  Now the fun part...get them made.  Too bad injection molding is so expensive.  3d printing material quality, resilience and appearance is very limited, IMO.

[mvliotta]

Cool, Paul!

 

Let me know if you get these made.

 

Vince

[irdave]

Paul, got an .stl file?

[camperman]

Somebody really needs to 3D print new heater boxes. Just the casing.  I'm pretty sure they have been NLA forever, all originals ones are so brittle that the plastic simply disintegrates when you try and take them apart or put them back together. They are near impossible to rebuild in my experience. Also because they are cracked and warped and brittle you cant screw them against the car body properly to seal them so they leak all the time. Im sure that there would be a lot of takers if someone were to make them.

Edited January 24, 2018 by camperman

[TobyB]

I wonder if it could be split to fit the typical (200mm square) home printer.

Black nylon would be durable enough, and appearance wouldn't matter that much.

 

My drawing skills aren't up to that level.

t

 

[PaulTWinterton]

The Final Word (maybe)

 

In the realoem diagrams they show 2 of the upper "protection caps" per car. They also show 2 lower left-facing caps per car and 2 lower right-facing caps per car.

 

This is what I've deduced from fiddling and producing copies.  Smaller pieces only fit on the outside upper rail attached to the seat. Larger pieces fit under the lower seat rails, hence the right and left versions x2.

(I'm expecting someone to comment on the disintegrating horsehair on the carpet.)

 

IRDAVE created some nice 3d prints of these pieces.  Ready for paint or re-printed in grey.  The material he used is quite flexible and probably adequate for this purpose.

 

[irdave]

Good, you got them.

 

If you think those are adequate, and if you're ok with me printing them for everyone, I can get some grey material (ABS, PLA, something) and print them.  That material I used for you is pretty flexy- most anything else would be a little less flexy- flexible enough to snap into place, but not the silliness of those first pieces...

[Zorac]

willing to share?  maybe put them up on thingiverse?  id like to give them a go for my car.  i printed a new dome light for my car, this looks like a good next project!

[PaulTWinterton]

3 hours ago, irdave said:

That material I used for you is pretty flexy- most anything else would be a little less flexy- flexible enough to snap into place, but not the silliness of those first pieces...

 

There is no snapping into place, just layered under rails, washers, and nuts.  The pieces you created are flexible enough not to break when hit or tightened under bolts.  There maybe a better material, but this material is ok too.

 

The STL file is not bad, but the inner radius of the lower piece is a little too big.  A smaller radius would thicken the whole part to match the original.

 

I still think the 3D printing process is a little rough.  It would be nice to have a smoother surface.

 

 

 

 

[irdave]

6 minutes ago, PaulTWinterton said:

 

There is no snapping into place, just layered under rails, washers, and nuts.  The pieces you created are flexible enough not to break when hit or tightened under bolts.  There maybe a better material, but this material is ok too.

 

The STL file is not bad, but the inner radius of the lower piece is a little too big.  A smaller radius would thicken the whole part to match the original.

 

I still think the 3D printing process is a little rough.  It would be nice to have a smoother surface.

Apparently if you use ABS, you can let it sit in acetone vapor for a little bit and it smooths everything out very nicely.

 

I think I printed some in ABS to test.  I'll try to get them in some acetone tomorrow...  Might be the answer.

 

How tight does the bolt get tightened?  M6 to 10Nm?  I can test the ABS to this...

 

But maybe if it was silver / grey already...  It is under the seat, no?  Maybe we are looking at it a little too close?  I suppose the question is is it for restoration or practical application...

[PaulTWinterton]

Dave, disregard what I said about the radius.  I looked at your parts again and the radius is as I had it in my 3D model.  Either you repaired the STL file (good work) or the interpretation of the file is different depending on the printer software.  Either way it looks good.

 

I think the acetone treatment is a good idea if you are offering these pieces to others.  Personally I like parts to be as close to the originals as possible, not obviously a facsimile. 

 

As far as the torque value for the plastic I can't say.  Remember that these bolts are holding down the seats.  Pretty important that they are tight.  I haven't tested your parts on the rails.

 

if you're ok with me printing them for everyone, I can get some grey material (ABS, PLA, something) and print them. 

 

I say go for it!  Find the best material.  Smooth them as best you can and offer them to the FAQ group, etc.  

 

Edited May 31, 2018 by PaulTWinterton

[irdave]

So I let one sit in acetone vapor for about an hour today (ABS).  It was soft when I removed it and the lines from printing had decreased as well.  Could probably try longer.  It came back to regular firmness after sitting in air for a while.

 

I'm good with finding some grey material, test printing again,  then selling them to those that want them for material and machine time cost- which should be really close to not much at all.  And if it ends up being ABS, I'll leave the acetone vapor bath to the buyer- you can do it if you want.

[Harvanj]

You may have to retest the functional performance after the acetone exposure.  The solvent may cause embrittlement, increasing fractures when stressed. Let the part sit for 7 days after exposure and retest.