What did you do to your 2002 today !

[its55]

On 8/12/2023 at 12:45 PM, Buckeye said:

@its55, Tech Tip - You could have taken other 4 nuts (Guibo to trans) off so you only had to replace only 4 new nuts. That way Guibo stays with driveshaft. Clean drive shaft bearing with brake cleaner, dry air it and pack it with new/fresh long life grease.

Does “clean the drive shaft bearing” include taking that section apart, I assume by removing the cap and parts 2 thru 7 and 9 in the pic below?  And by the way, there was no bump stop (part # 2) found in mine, it seems I should install one?

 

 

[D.martijn]

Some more progress,

 

After checking the height of the subframe point by measuring from the other subframe point we previously replaced to a square tube that's also level with the car. we compared it to the one we need to weld in. We were only off by a couple of mm so pretty good. By using the jack we were able to lift it so it's level with the other one. The jig squares the point with the rest of the car. However we did measure to the front of the car as well, everything looks good.

 

Also making sure it's rotated correct so it's inline with the inner sill and floor!

 

First couple of spotwelds we were able to reach with some of the clamps in the way.

 

And the inside/underside

 

Fully spotwelded to the floor, we still need to add the stitch welds underneath but we'll to that once the inner sill and rear wheel well is in. Adding a couple extra spotwelds on the side at the floor flange and in the middle of the panel.

 

Inside spotwelds got cleaned up a little and everything sprayed with Corroless

 

Also prepped the inner sill for welding and cut it to lenght. as well as the remaining section of original sill got trimmed a little bit more. We did notice the floor flange sitting a little high at the front of the seat post, making it hard to add plugwelds / spotwelds. Might need to make a small relief cut and push it down a bit more.

 

We ran out of time for today but next time we should be able to weld in the inner sill for good. Then it's on to the wheel well!!

[Buckeye]

On 8/17/2023 at 8:28 AM, its55 said:

Does “clean the drive shaft bearing” include taking that section apart, I assume by removing the cap and parts 2 thru 7 and 9 in the pic below?  And by the way, there was no bump stop (part # 2) found in mine, it seems I should install one?

 

 

 

Do not take it apart or at least I did not. Just clean inside (hole) with brake cleaner and dry it with compressed air then fill it with long life grease. Bump stop is a closed cell foam. Over the years deteriorated. A lot of folks claim is never been there but it was at one time. This NLA part now, but back in 2015 I was able to purchase and install one.

Edited August 19, 2023 by Buckeye
.

[M3This]

Finally got my car off the frame roller and on jack stands so I can put the subframes back in. Feels like a big step. Plan to do the front suspension tomorrow during the rain storm we are supposed to have. 
 

[2002FjordBaur]

IMG_7343.HEIC

export_1690641518489.mov

 

export_1690643352267.mov

 

IMG_7357.MOV

 

Fitted a nice two-tone Hella horn set and tried a 3-way bleeding technique on my from calipers... not textbookIMG_7343.HEIC, but it has firmed up the pedal after messing around for ages to get a decent feel...
fitting a 123 ignition next..

Edited August 20, 2023 by 2002FjordBaur

[M3This]

Got the front suspension in! 
 

 

 

Edited August 21, 2023 by M3This

[its55]

6 hours ago, M3This said:

Got the front suspension in! 
 

 

 

I assume you know that the suspension nuts must be torqued with the car on the ground and loaded…

 

[M3This]

6 minutes ago, its55 said:

I assume you know that the suspension nuts must be torqued with the car on the ground and loaded…

 

yep sure do. 

['76mintgrün'02]

4 minutes ago, its55 said:

I assume you know that the suspension nuts must be torqued with the car on the ground and loaded…

 

Assuming you are using rubber bushings. 

 

Polyurethane bushings can be torqued down with the suspension dangling, because they act like free swinging hinges, (as opposed to rubber that gets locked into position when tightened).

[M3This]

3 minutes ago, '76mintgrün'02 said:

 

Assuming you are using rubber bushings. 

 

Polyurethane bushings can be torqued down with the suspension dangling, because they act like free swinging hinges, (as opposed to rubber that gets locked into position when tightened).

Never knew that. Good info. My car is all urethane, only rubber will be on drivetrain mounts. 

[its55]

2 hours ago, '76mintgrün'02 said:

 

Assuming you are using rubber bushings. 

 

Polyurethane bushings can be torqued down with the suspension dangling, because they act like free swinging hinges, (as opposed to rubber that gets locked into position when tightened).

 

Maybe thats correct, although I don’t understand how, since the urethane bushings are torqued down just as tightly. In any evey, when I install mine I torqued them all with a load in the car just to be safe since I had never learn to read anything to the contrary. Polyurethane can split, crack and fail. 

['76mintgrün'02]

10 minutes ago, its55 said:

Maybe thats correct, although I don’t understand how, since the urethane bushings are torqued down just as tightly. In any evey, when I install mine I torqued them all with a load in the car just to be safe since I had never learn to read anything to the contrary. Polyurethane can split, crack and fail. 

 

The sleeve inside poly bushings is loose.  In rubber bushings, it's fused to the rubber.  Poly pivots freely, so the position it's in when tightened does not matter.  However, rubber wants to be "at rest" with the vehicle in a "typically loaded" position.  (Weight on the wheels and weight in the car to simulate a typical load).  Otherwise, the rubber will be stressed when at rest.

 

 

[Fortlauderdalian]

Started on the second trailing arm. 

[johnnyb]

18 hours ago, '76mintgrün'02 said:

 

The sleeve inside poly bushings is loose.  In rubber bushings, it's fused to the rubber.  Poly pivots freely, so the position it's in when tightened does not matter.  However, rubber wants to be "at rest" with the vehicle in a "typically loaded" position.  (Weight on the wheels and weight in the car to simulate a typical load).  Otherwise, the rubber will be stressed when at rest.

 

 

Hey Tom, how do you access the bolts under the car while it is under load?  I envision this being an ideal use case for a 2-post lift that lifts the car by its wheels instead of the body.  But for a poor guy like me who has to work on jack stands, I imagine having to "load" the suspension by compressing the brake rotor/drum/hub with a floor jack (potentially unloading the body from the jack stands).  

['76mintgrün'02]

9 minutes ago, johnnyb said:

Hey Tom, how do you access the bolts under the car while it is under load?  I envision this being an ideal use case for a 2-post lift that lifts the car by its wheels instead of the body.

 

Typically, a two post lift doesn't put the weight on the wheels, but reaches out and lifts between them; but a four post lift would keep the weight on the wheels.  I don't have either and I really don't remember how I did this twelve years ago.  If I had to do it again today, I'd run the front end up on ramps and then jack the back end up and set those wheels on ramps as well.  I'd have to borrow the ramps I gave to my neighbor though.  I only have two now.  Wood blocking would work too.

 

33 minutes ago, Fortlauderdalian said:

Started on the second trailing arm. 

 

Did you measure the width at the open end, to make sure there isn't distortion due to welding?  It seems like they might want to close up.

 

I just went up and measured a pair of trailing arms (that are out of the subframe) and one side measured 14 7/8" and the other is 14 3/4".  Now, I am wondering which one is correct.

 

Tom