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Top End Performance Lynx single carb side draft interference issues


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Hi there, I'm installing this setup from Top End Performance. The build of the manifold and carb look really good and I finally got a chance to try installing it this afternoon.



After getting the old manifold off and cleaning up the engine bay, I went to dry fit the manifold and carb and was surprised to find that the right velocity stack interferes with the brake booster. 
This shouldn't happen per the description of the part from Top End.

I realized that the manifold was not seating against the head completely because the mechanical fuel pump was contacting it preventing it from going all the way onto the studs.






Being new to 2002's this doesn't look like a stock pump.




I'm guessing that if I remove the pump the manifold will seat correctly and maybe allow the velocity stack to clear the brake booster. I'll try this later and find out.

If I have to install an electric fuel pump, what's recommended?


Also, the car has an automatic transmission. A downshift linkage was connected to the throttle and the new carb doesn't have a direct connection or a place to allow for a connection to it.

I'll have to science the fish out of this to make it work. But I'm open to suggestions for how to hook them up.



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Okay, removing the fuel pump didn't resolve the clearance issues.


I did resolve my problem with the velocity stack and the brake booster. I gave the nuts mounting the carb to the manifold a few more turns and that pulled it up enough to clear it.

The fuel pump on the other hand is still an issue. I think I'll just go with an electric pump.


As for the linkage to the transmission, I'm still searching for a solution.



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I bought the TEP suggested Carter pump, and it has worked fine for 6 years or so, I added a relay and fuse with separate power, using the coil wire to operate the relay. I avoided the clearance problem by using the ram flo air filter. Also used a tii distributor, not familiar with the automatic linkage.

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Yes, a carter pump will fit.  I also went with the ram flo air filter.  With the velocity stacks, you just don't have enough clearance considering some engine shake.  OK, it's not the fanciest looking setup, but it works.   You might also try finding some velocity stacks that are angled as I've seen that work too.


BTW... get the TEP suggestions for jetting -- I think they're on the board here.  Don't just try it with what comes on the Weber... it's way off.




1972 BMW 2002 Colorado "Traumcycle"

2000 BMW 323Ci

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I went with shorter stacks to address the brake booster clearance issue.  It was tight, but they cleared.  The mechanical fuel pump pictured had no clearance issues if you don't go the Carter pump route.


They will need to be re-jetted to run right.









1970 BMW 1600 (Nevada)



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Thanks for the replies.

I'll look into the electric fuel pump. Hopefully there's a good DIY thread on getting it installed.


Also there were a lot of smog related connections that I've had or will remove/block off. There are no connections for them with this manifold/carb.


Last question. Are there any other pictures of engines with setup installed? Have questions that would be easily answered with a couple pictures. 


Thanks again!!



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The aftermarket Italian fuel pump is a bit larger in diameter than either of the OEM Pierburg pumps (the early style that's held together with screws and the later one that's crimped together).  Look at Mark's pictures directly above and you'll see the later style Pierburg pump. It protrudes further from the head than the pump you have, and the diameter appears to be smaller.


Those OEM mechanical pumps are very reliable and are bolt on--much easier than installing, wiring and plumbing an electric pump, IMHO...



'69 Nevada sunroof-Wolfgang-bought new
'73 Sahara sunroof-Ludwig-since '78
'91 Brillantrot 318is sunroof-Georg Friederich 
Fiat Topolini (Benito & Luigi), Renault 4CVs (Anatole, Lucky Pierre, Brigette) & Kermit, the Bugeye Sprite

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13 hours ago, Mark92131 said:

Here's some pictures of the same setup on my 1975 Pastel Blue car.  I have had good luck with this setup and learned some things that I applied to the Lynx conversion on my 1971 BMW 1600 Voll Cab, (cold start/enrichment cabling and throttle return spring)







Have you ever checked the fuel pressure with that pump?  I had the same pump, but was seeing 4-5psi, more than the recommended 2.5-3psi for my Weber 38.  


I'm in process of going to an electric pump so I could install a regulator - 


On an non-related topic, I bought an ebay catch can very similar to yours.  How well does it function?  I haven't installed mine yet.

John Baas

1976 BMW 2002

2001 BMW M5

My Blog!

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I found a good solution for the downshift cable to the automatic. I hope it'll work out.

A new smaller mechanical fuel pump will be arriving by the weekend. 

I also have most of the smog equipment removed and the harness fixed. Turns out to not have been a California car. So none of those extra bits to remove.


My Wife can't wait to have her car back and I feel horrible for having taken it apart before I knew about this stuff! LOL.



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  • 3 weeks later...
6 hours ago, dirving said:

Hello Jerry. Same situation with auto trans. What was your solution to kickdown cable? Thanks


Hey dirving! Super simple actually. I read through all of the posts on what others had done and I started going down the path of sourcing the parts needed to using a rod style actuator. In the end, I took the throttle linkage off the carb and welded on a bit of steel I had bent and drilled holes into and whola!

Reconnect the cable to the transmission and adjust. Works like a champ.





in the car.



Hope this helps out.

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  • 4 months later...

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