Dicks

Ah....I bought the car in Austin about 7 years ago. So it was there for a number of years. It's going to the DFW area now.

I want to express my hearty thanks to the FAQ and all that participate on here. For the last 7 years I've found the board extremely helpful, friendly, and accommodating. I couldn't have asked for a better resource for my 1972 2002, "Traumcycle". As all things must change, today "Traumcycle" headed off to a new home. The new owner is on the FAQ so he might choose to introduce himself. Really guys....you're the BEST. Thanks for all of the help and support. Who knows...maybe the "bug" will bite once again.

I want to express my hearty thanks to the FAQ and all that participate on here. For the last 7 years I've found the board extremely helpful, friendly, and accommodating. I couldn't have asked for a better resource for my 1972 2002, "Traumcycle". As all things must change, today "Traumcycle" headed off to a new home. The new owner is on the FAQ so he might choose to introduce himself. Really guys....you're the BEST. Thanks for all of the help and support. Who knows...maybe the "bug" will bite once again.

Yes, a carter pump will fit. I also went with the ram flo air filter. With the velocity stacks, you just don't have enough clearance considering some engine shake. OK, it's not the fanciest looking setup, but it works. You might also try finding some velocity stacks that are angled as I've seen that work too. BTW... get the TEP suggestions for jetting -- I think they're on the board here. Don't just try it with what comes on the Weber... it's way off.

Someone please help........ I know you can't accurately give a value, but how about a range?

It's time that I part with my 2002 and let someone else enjoy it. Frankly, age and too many other demands are not allowing me to pay attention to the Bummer than I should. Plus, I can use the space in my Houston area garage.... This 1972 Roundie is a DAILY DRIVER and not a show car -- please remember that.... But I find that I've only been putting maybe 1000 miles a year of this garage queen. The car has had at least two other prior owners...probably more. It was resurrected some years ago by a mechanic from whom the PO brought the car. I've owned it for about 5+ years now. The car is NOT a matching numbers vehicle. It's a '72, but has a 74 motor and transmission (4speed). During time I've owned it, I've done the following: Rebuilt engine (less than 4000 miles ago) Replaced clutch & guibo (less than 3000 miles ago) Replaced tie rod ends and other bushings & suspension goodies Removed, but kept the Dealer A/C system and counsel Replaced the dash with a crack free example Installed beautiful Recaro seats Installed a new original style carpet Replaced the door cards with later model good examples Installed a ceramic coated Tii exhaust header Installed an IE stainless exhaust system Engine-wise.... it was rebuilt with 9.5 Mahle pistons. It has the stock cam, but the single Weber 45 Intake. Runs very well. Paint...is the original Colorado color, but the PO's repaint was only a driver quality job. RUST -- I have some poor quality pics from the mechanic who tackled the rust. They show several of the typical areas being replaced with metal -- not Bondo. However, the passenger rocker rear is a Bondo filler repair. I have no doubt that someone would be able to find some rust spots as is normal with these cars, but overall ...it's a great 10 foot car. What it needs.... 1) Replace speedo as the odometer has quit again with an on hand replacement item. 2) While your in there, add a ground strap to the instrument cluster. 3) Track down a suspect fuel line leak that causes slow fire up after sitting for a couple of weeks. Other than those things.... it's a normal old 2002 that takes a certain amount of continuing care that should be known to most all of you. I have a LOT of spares and other pieces that would go with the car including a rebuilt pedal box and the A/C system -- Probably 4-5 boxes of items. As I said, I've been toying with selling it for a while. Now is probably as good as time as ever. I'd appreciate it if some of you could give me some advice on likely pricing as well as the best way to go... FAQ, Craigslist, eBay? Thanks guys and gals....

WTB -- Internal parts for brake reservoir on a 1972 2002. My brake light came on today, and after digging into it, I found 1) the internal float was half full of brake fluid, 2) the elastomeric condom between the rod and the float had deteriorated, and on top of it all the spring came off on my work bench and rolled somewhere that even the Gods can't seem to find..... brakes work fine BTW <grin> I am looking for the INTERNAL parts to the brake reservoir...the little spring, the rubber grommet, and a good float. So far, I've held onto the basket <grin> Reply direct is fine. .... KK500@comcast.net Thanks Dick S

Maybe this has been posted before....but certainly interesting. http://www.automobilemag.com/features/news/petrolicious-explores-a-car-designers-1971-bmw-2002-in-new-video/

You can pay $$$$$ for some super un-obtainium German fitting, or go to Lowes/Home Depot and buy a couple of these plastic doo-hickeys. They're standard couplings.

I don't know if the factory started using this fix or if it was just a home-made one. I DO know that the early 2002's (and 1600's I think) had a lot of issues with the washer pumps getting water inside. I know that the one on my 1970 stopped and wouldn't pump. When I took it apart to try and fix it, I discovered that the armature was wrapped with some paper insulator. The paper had swollen up through water absorption and was blocking the armature from spinning. I removed the water logged paper that was binding, and the pump functioned perfectly for over the next10 years. I vaguely remember something in a very early issue of the roundel about the situation...but can't remember if it said to block off the holes or ???? If these holes were standard for the time, then water would definitely get into the motor either from overfilling the tank or through road water.

There are some other concerns when it comes to dipping or e-coating bodies. Today's bodies are specifically designed for the e-coat process and include holes for the liquid to drain after the electro coating process. This is why dipping of bodies was a poor operation to begin with. The entrapped solvent laden paint trapped in recesses such as doors would gas off the solvent and it would "wash" the paint off of the part leaving it unprotected. E-coating avoided these problems because it deposited the paint onto the steel electrically and not through evaporation. However, it does leave liquid behind in hidden spots if they are not designed to drain properly after the dip process. While this won't wash off the primer, it might leave a real mess behind. Going back and e-coating an old body might not really give you what you seek.

There are some other concerns when it comes to dipping or e-coating bodies. Today's bodies are specifically designed for the e-coat process and include holes for the liquid to drain after the electro coating process. This is why dipping of bodies was a poor operation to begin with. The entrapped solvent laden paint trapped in recesses such as doors would gas off the solvent and it would "wash" the paint off of the part leaving it unprotected. E-coating avoided these problems because it deposited the paint onto the steel electrically and not through evaporation. However, it does leave liquid behind in hidden spots if they are not designed to drain properly after the dip process. While this won't wash off the primer, it might leave a real mess behind. Going back and e-coating an old body might not really give you what you seek.

At 1/10th the price it would make a good start on a Lemons car..... 'bout all though.

Generally speaking....any elastomer that is resistant to the aromatics in gasoline (which your original should be -- I know I use to run 100 octane Amoco Super Premium (50% aromatics)) is also resistant to the alcohol (EtOH).

PM thanks.... It's good to treat the FAQ as special

Definately post the VIN. *IF* it is a real Ti then you have some choices to make. If it's not "real", despite the carbs and air cleaner, then run, run, run away. The experts on the board will tell you what to look for in addition to the Ti badge.

I was a member when the Rondel was photocopied 5 page or so newsletter in 1970. I rejoined after a long absence when I purchased my '72 2002 driver a number of years ago. Frankly, the FAQ comes a LOT closer to duplicating the experience from the '70's that I loved. I get tons of help here...good opinions....experience and a lot of fun just reading everything. Where the BMWCCA and Rondel has gone has virtually no appeal I for me I discovered when I rejoined. I'll stick around here as long as I have my '02........

I've had one installed for over 2 years now with excellent results. Absolutely no complaints.

Please understand.... a project is wonderful...expecially one that's yours. However, judging from the pictures, I'd certainly consider finding a rust free shell and transfering over the mechanicals IMO. That's extensive rust you're tackling on that one.

And very good used ones are even cheaper. IMO, this is one of those jobs that just don't justify one screwing around with. Use the modern mechanic technique of just replacing parts vs. repair.

My speedo went South today..... I'm looking for a good, working (speedo and odometer) black face model. This will get me off of my duff and the burned out bulbs replaced and a good ground added as well. Let me know if anyone has one that they could part with. Thanks

Looks like Colorado for the color and most likely a '73 unless someone was playing with the front bumper horns.

Why not just 1) make sure it's unlocked and then 2) put the key up in some super safe location that you CAN find again? The locking gas caps were a product of the early 70's gas crisis. The BMW's never came with one that I am aware of. My bet is that less than 1% of us today even feel the need for one.

Not to worry...you'll probably find over 100 people here on the FAQ that will be willing to swap with you. The close ratio box is a lot more valuable than the overdrive box from a rareity standpoint. However, as you say, the overdrive is probably better for driving around town and on the highway.