engine and drivetrain Stuck Exhaust Valve

[TobyB]

Sure- and if you have the same class tap as was used originally, it works great.  I don't mind doing it to the low- stress holes on the block,

it's just that the head bolts are a pretty tight fit in the casting, and the standard (class 3?) fit really cuts them bigger.  If you got the right tap,

it's a no- brainer, I agree.  I have an old head bolt that I cut 2 slots into at an angle- it acts as a thread cleaner without taking away much iron...

 

See, this is the problem with learning other trades (machining, in this case..;)

 

Any decent machinist will be able to fix the head, no worries.

 

t

 

[Son of Marty]

Yeah I have a old bolt like Toby's but I only put 1 vertical slot in it, after cleaning the hole with solvent the first time I run the bolt in and viola clean threads. Make sure the holes are completely dry all the way to the bottom or you will hydro lock the bolt.

Edited September 29, 2016 by Son of Marty

[Boultman]

So, my greatest fear has come true.  The head has a small crack in it, under the Exhaust valve seat that came loose.  Thus, allowing it to come out slightly, and stick the valve. 

 

So... i need a new head.  This one isn't worth trying to weld, grind, machine.  

 

Are there companies out there that people recommend that sell complete, turn-key 2002 heads with the valvetrain already installed?  

 

I think BMW sells the bare heads for about $900.  Surely there is a company that sells rebuild heads with all new valves, rockers, etc installed....

 

 

[TobyB]

Bummer.  I know that $inking feeling as well...

 

There aren't really places selling complete "reman" heads like you can get for your Ford 300.

You might get someone like Metric Mechanic to build you one, maybe, but they'll build

it after you call them.

 

I don't think you can get a new casting anymore.  Most of us find a good core,

a local machinist, and go that route.

 

I'm curious, too, to see if anyone out there knows of a way to get a 'reconditioned' head that isn't... marginal...

 

t

 

 

[OriginalOwner]

does this help ??

   https://www.2002ad.com/storeworks/view_item.cfm?id=1824

   https://www.2002ad.com/storeworks/view_item.cfm?id=2226

 

Cheers,

 

Carl

 

[Simeon]

Top End Performance built me a head without a core to exchange (my head was warped and already cut too much plus shipping wouldn't have been cheaper). 

 

Had it it built with new valve train / 292 ground cam, came with front cover to bolt straight on. Not quite on the shelf but it certainly didn't take them weeks. 

[tedwardcairns]

I am incredibly late to this thread but the exhaust valve was bent from contact with the piston, you can see it in the photos, but can you post a picture of the crack in the head? do you know if it goes into water?

[jgerock]

You are in Texas- look up Terry Sayther.

[Boultman]

These links helped.  i am going to call them this morning and try to figure out my best route.  It seems a turn-key head is the way to go. 

I do not have a photo of the crack in the head, as it was under the valve seat area, and wasn't discovered until the local machinist (across town) pulled the loose seat.  

He also mentioned the rocker shaft(s) being warped some.  

[Boultman]

Update.  I was able to find a used (virgin) head from a local source, and sent it to my machinist.  It is all done and complete and in my garage. It needed to be decked, so i bought a 0.3mm over-sized head gasket. 

 It is time start getting everything together. I don't think timing/clocking will be an issue, as i kept everything in place while the head was out.  i just need to clock the cam back to where mine was when i took it out. 

 

I'm concerned about Getting all the coolant back into the system and purging all of the air out.  I read where i need to "burp" the block, but i'm not really sure what that entails.  

 

also. do i use any sort of RTV on the seams where the timing covers mate up at the three-way seam?  or anywhere else? it was obviously decked at the same time as the head....

 

Also, do i need to lubricate anything by hand before i button it all back up?  or just put in fresh oil?   I plan to change it again after a couple of hundred miles, and check head bolt torques at the same time. 

 

fingers crossed...

[TobyB]

Glad you've found a head:

 

Yup, make sure the crank is at tdc,the line on the cam flange is straight up, you're good.

 

M10's aren't hard to bleed- fill it up, open the heater valve, and leave the cap off.  It will burp itself, most likely,

so then add coolant.  But unlike an M20 or 5x, it will take enough at the initial fill to keep it from overheating at idle.

 

RTV at the 3- way joint, yes.  Usually nowhere else.  I use a gasket sealant on the water neck, just for reassurance.

 

Grease the cam lobes.  It takes a while to get oil up there, so a moly grease helps the cam for those first few hundred revolutions.

 

hth

 

t

[Son of Marty]

As Toby said just put a dot of RTV in the small holes at that joint just before putting the head on that's what they are there for. With a new head just before start up with the valve cover off I put the new oil in 2 qts at a time and flood the head intill it's about 1/2" from overflowing on the exhaust side and pour oil in at a rate that keeps it there.

[Lorin]

How old was the fuel in the car when this happened?

[Boultman]

Fuel was Fresh. I drive the car regularly. 

[Boultman]

quick update.  I finally got around to putting the head and everything back in the car.  

fluids back in this morning.  It turns over nice and smooth with no funny noises, which is a relief. 

 

Now it's a matter of getting the fuel backed primed, the timing where it needs to be and the carb adjusted (i rebuilt and re-jetted when it was out).   

It back-fired a few times when i turned it over, so that's a decent sign.  

 

FYI, i did the newer torque directions using a Torque wrench to 60 n-m, then 33 degrees on angle gauge.  Once i get it running and warmed a couple of times i'll go back in for the final 25 degrees.  Seems like a lot!