Weber 32/36 Carburetor & Stock Air Filter Integration

[Buckeye]

I start by saying always liked "stock look” under the hood and never cared for appearance of Weber 32/36 air filter on my 76 ’02. On the technical side, Weber set up is such that air drawn into intake manifold is always warm/hot (from engine compartment surroundings). So it is opposite of air induction system was originally designed for base model. On original setup for most parts selection of warm and/ or cold air determined by air regulator housing. The original system always let outside ambient temperature air to intake, which it is believed to make engine run smoother and better fuel efficient.

Stock air cleaner and weber carburetor Integration has been discussed on this forum previously and there are lots of good information how to do this, but did not find much information on purpose of air regulator box, heat shield over exhaust manifold. So I had to learn about each component as I was acquiring them and at the end found system design quit simple and efficient. So it was learning experience and then I thought why not write article about it.

Procedure is written for a 1976 model year car, which I think will be very similar for earlier model years as well, but don’t know that for sure. As I mentioned before I did not have any of original components so I had to place add on this forum under “Part Wanted” section and thanks to members that helped for me to acquire needed parts.

After several search and reading up on this topic it appeared that there are at least two methods to accomplish this job if not more; one is to use an adaptor between air filter housing and carburetor; Second option is to not use an adaptor. I don’t know pros and cons of one system to another, but as I recall If none adapter version is decided then a fabricated closed-cell foam gasket should be installed between air cleaner and carburetor. Below pictures (not mine) for none adaptor version for reference.

In my case I opted to go with an adaptor version.

Here are photos of components that were needed;

JAM air cleaner adapter Picture (13/36)

Picture (13/39)

Fabrication and Installation:

• Turn-over air filter housing, remove rubber seal and slide the adapter over the air cleaner flange
• Trace JAM adapter inside and three mounting holes onto air cleaner
• Remove adapter then remove excess material by various tools (i.e. tinsnip pliers, dremel tool)
• Drill previously marked holes with ¼” drill bit
• May want to prime/ paint modified area to prevent future rust

 

• Disconnect cable from battery negative post as a precaution
• Remove Weber air filter assembly including filter base plate, four screws and breather hose
• Fasten two brackets to intake manifold (picture 13/39, item #1 & 8)

 

• Slide down new gasket ontop of carburator
• Set JAM adapter over carburetor and then place gasket on top the adapter

 

• With air cleaner over JAM adapter line up 3 mounting holes.
• Loosely fasten air cleaner and JAM adapter to carburetor by using M6x45 screws and flat washers supplied in JAM adapter kit. Do not tighten screw yet.
• Fasten air cleaner to the brackets that were previously fasten to intake manifold. Purpose of these struts are to partially support weight of air cleaner and not all air cleaner weight on carburetor alone
• Using piece of none braided hose connect cylinder head valve cover vent opening to air cleaner tube opening

 

• Remove air regulator box cover screw and withdraw the cover. Oil the valve pivot points and check adjustment.
• Replace cover and screw then install the box onto snorkel (right rear of the radiator)

 

• use rubber boot to connect air cleaner to air regulator box

 

• Set new filter in and put the cover on and close clamps

 

• Slide heat shield cover over exhaust manifold and fasten it with two M6x16 bolts along with flat and wave washers. May want to apply anti-seized compound to the bolts for ease of removal just in case later on

 

• Connect heat shield to air regulator box. Curved tube (picture 13/36, item#6)

 

• Slowly try to close hood and absorb to see if hood inside makes contact with top of air cleaner housing. I did not have any interference issue, but if it seems to be the case, you may want to consider followings for remedy;
  • Have machine shop to shorten JAM adapter height by not more than 2mm
  • Thickness of isolation gasket sandwiched between carburetor bottom and intake manifold opening
  • Foam pad inside bonnet
  • Raising bonnet slightly

   

  [*]Re-connect cable to battery negative post

  [*]Have someone to assist with starting the car and ensure hood and air cleaner top not making contact as revving up engine, which in this case engine wants to tilt to right hand side

  [*]Last but not least need to paint air cleaner so it “looks stock” but have to wait till weather warms up around here.

   

 

Air Regulator Housing Adjustment

• With the valve lever in “Summer Position” (vertical) air is drawn only from outside the car
• Release lever from “summer position” for other seasons.
• With the valve lever in the horizontal position, air drawn in from front of the car is mixed with air heated by exhaust manifold in specific proportions by the action of bi-metallic element which is dependent upon the current engine and ambient temperatures.

 

1/27/2014_Rev 1

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[M3M3]

nice write up!  thanks for doing it.

[jdeitch]

Nice write-up. Glad my pics, etc. were useful!

[im3crazy]

Good documentation. I'm doing this as well for the same reasons.  Well done.

[wtinker]

Thanks for the writeup! I was planning to do this on my '72.

[jplips]

Thank you for the write up. Am about to tackle this mod with the JAM adaptor and fibreglass hood from American Racing. Anxious to find out if there is enough clearance.

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[Stevenc22]

^ JP did you get rid of the side drafts?

[Mike Self]

I did the same thing but without the JAM adapter, which I couldn't get to fit as it made the air cleaner over a half inch too high.

 

I simply laid the factory air cleaner over the installed Weber carb, and sketched out the necessary opening to allow the rectangular Weber opening to be fully exposed.  Then I used a Dremel cutting wheel and tinsnips to cut the opening out.  Checked my work to make sure the opening was large enough, then made a thick (1" or so) gasket out of closed cell foam; that sealed the bottom of the air cleaner to the top of the carb.  Took about 30 minutes and has been working fine since about 1981.  Only had to replace the gasket once, and that's because it was dirty, not worn out.

 

cheers

mike

[Lisa.02P]

Interesting.... Could this be done for a 38/38 weber set up? 

[roadhog0]

17 minutes ago, 02princessLisa said:

Interesting.... Could this be done for a 38/38 weber set up? 

 

Yes

[Lisa.02P]

This is enticing! Any hinderance on the performance from anyone's experience?

['76mintgrün'02]

nope, increased performance.

if you connect the inlet to the snorkel, you will be sucking cool air into the carburettor, which is a good thing.  

I just did this with my 32-36 and love the difference it made in engine noise.

 

(nmna) this looks like a nice one for Tesoro:

 

['76mintgrün'02]

here is a link to the post I made today 

Apparently there are several different adaptors that have been made over the years, as can be seen in these threads.  I am very happy with the way mine came out, so I would recommend that style, if you can find one.  It did take a bit of fiddling to fit, but the smooth entrance into the carburettor seems like a good thing.  

[Lisa.02P]

@'76Mintgrun'02  @Buckeye Amazing! Well done guys! 

[jplips]

Steven,

 

Nope still have the PHH40's on the 02, will not take those off - runs great with 300 sport cam

 

The JAM adaptor is for another 02 (father-daughter) project which is currently in the garage.....and not running yet.

 

All the best

 

JP