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    • steve k.

      Introducing FAQ Memberships   04/17/2017

      I would like to introduce everyone to the FAQ memberships. A fun way to fund the site and to contribute for those who are interested.    Everyone starts as a Solex Member.  This membership is free and not much visible is changing (I limited the personal message storage to 150).   Kugelfischer membership.  As a reward for your donation of $20.02 per year, you will not see any external advertisements, the site will look cleaner and run a bit faster. You will also get a couple of BMW 2002 FAQ Stickers.   Turbo Membership.  As a reward for your donation of $50.02, you will not see any external advertisements, the site will look cleaner and run a bit faster.  You will also get unlimited Personal Message storage, ability to create Private and Restricted Photo Albums. You will also get a couple of BMW 2002 FAQ Stickers and a Bottle Opener.   Alpina Membership.  As a reward for your donation of $100.02 per year, you will not see any external advertisements, the site will look cleaner and run a bit faster.  You will also get unlimited Personal Message storage, ability to create Private and Restricted Photo Albums, and an ability to upload Movies to the gallery. You will also get a couple of BMW 2002 FAQ Stickers, a Bottle Opener, and discounts on our accessories at the store.   There is also a fancy title that comes with each membership.  


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About '76mintgrun'02

  • Rank
    Master Tinker

Profile Information

  • Gender Male
  • Location Kingston, WA (The Evergrun State)

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  1. track rods? I replaced tie rods... I think you may be referring to the radius rods. (?) Those fat rubber bushings had been replaced recently in my car, from the looks of 'em; so I did not do those either. It would be fun to run a tight piece of fishing line under the center of my car and perhaps one perpendicular to it, to measure off of. I would need someone on the other end of a tape though. I wonder how straight those strings would say my car isn't.
  2. nope. no. not a good idea. imho. just fix the six simple problems with the O2 and do as Ray_ suggested. A quick search on an M3 forum found this advice: "The biggest concern should be that the M3 was never designed to tow loads. Consider renting a truck to haul your jet ski. Don't potentially ruin your M3 trying to use it as a truck. '
  3. Mine pulls a little to the right as well. I replaced all the rubber bits up front, as well as tie rods, center link, control arms, ball joints... basically everything except the drag link bushings. I have them and will install them when I have the manifold off. I am curious whether you changed those bushings. It would be funny if they wore in a way that made it pull right. I am not taking mine too seriously, until I freshen up the rear subframe. Bushings in hand... just slow getting around to it. Are you certain that you do not have a dragging caliper? I had that problem as well. Both of them, actually. I did my own toe in settings on my old VWs and one time I ran a tight little string down the center line under the car, so I could measure to each side off of that. It seemed like a good idea at the time. Pretty cool tool you have there! Around here, it is a couple of sticks of wood and a tape measure : )
  4. I foolishly paid $80 to have an alignment done, when I put the front end back together. I have since learned to set my own toe-in. These are the numbers that were printed on my receipt. I am not sure whether they jive with the factory recommendations. (SR= Specified Range) Rear Camber= SR -2.50 to -1.50 Rear Toe= SR .03 to .22 Front Caster= SR 3.5 to 4.5 Front Camber= SR .00 to 1.00 Front Toe= SR .05 to .08 Total Toe= SR .09 to .16
  5. Thank you for sharing so many beautiful photos! I have scrolled through them all a couple of times, yet, not one Mintgrun car to be seen : ( Perhaps they were more common on the west coast... There is a small gathering happening next Sunday in Issaquah and I think your photos have inspired me to attend... again. Will you be coming up for that event? ; ) Tom
  6. Vacuum Retard, actually. Nice photos Carl! It is good to see someone still running points Tom
  7. other

    Ed, I had not noticed the spelling errer. I was merely showing that IGNITOR is a trademark of PERTRONIX. IE uses something ELSE... as I know you know. I suppose it could (legally) be called an IGNITER. : )
  8. other

    I decided to try electrolysis instead. Today I bent a hoop out of half inch steel and hung it around the lip of a rusty rim. Proximity matters with this process, so placing the anode around the entire lip, right up close, will make for a speedy cleanup. This photo was taken after less than five minutes in the bucket. I am using the liquid from my existing bucket and stirred up the rusty sediment in the process. Hence the dirty looking liquid/foam. (For those not familiar with this process, the liquid is merely water and soda ash (baking soda cooked for an hour at 200*) and the negative lead goes to the part to be cleaned, positive to the anode). It will be interesting to see how deep the pitting goes.
  9. other

    Word mark: IGNITOR Status/Status Date: REGISTERED AND RENEWED 3/27/2011 Serial Number: 73177064 Filing Date: 7/3/1978 Registration Number: 1160631 Registration Date: 7/14/1981 Goods and Services: Magnetically Triggered Electronic Ignition Units for Use in Distribution Systems of Internal Combustion Engines for Vehicles Mark Description: NOT AVAILABLE Type Of Mark: TradeMark Published For Opposition Date: 5/27/1980 Last Applicant/Owner: PERTRONIX, LLC SAN DIMAS, CA 91773 http://www.trademarkia.com/ignitor-73177064.html
  10. body and interior

    The PO ruined those strips on my car. The vent knobs are a bit chewed up as well, since they apparently did not know the hole was back there. I noticed that BMW actually put a little punch mark on the rim of the knob, to show us where the hole is located. I also noticed that your door panel has real stitching! A while ago, I made this crude little tool, for popping the covers off. Now that I have installed it in the door for a photo shoot, I may as well take it all apart, to replace the window mechanism. Funny, how one thing leads to another sometimes. Tom
  11. I would be happy to weld a fitting on your down pipe. ( if you'd like to come visit again ) We can plot that rebuilt distributor's curve, as well.
  12. other

    Andy bought a reamer and realigned/rerounded/rebushed the bores for the shafts on his original Solex carbs, for his ti. If you find some play, you might check with him about the details. I have seen carburetor spelled with one T or ttwo, but never two Es and two Ts. Ttom
  13. +1 for Kingsborne you can get them in 8mm, for that beefier look. pretty colors too, if bling's your thing. -1 for Pertronix
  14. eleven percent
  15. other

    I bled my brakes... again. The other day I used the Motive pressure bleeder to push new fluid into the system and on the last caliper, I was not paying attention and blew air into the master. I was trying to watch the fluid level, to stop and refill the reservoir, but apparently got distracted. Well, today, I rigged up a Mayonnaise jar as an inline reservoir, to keep the Motive clean, but not have to stop and refill so often. I also drilled the lid on another Poulsbo Pickled Herring jar, so I can bleed both sides at once. My floor jack was too tall to go under the car, unless I drove it up onto something. That was getting old, so I made a new plywood 'puck' to replace the original part. It is nothing fancy, but does the trick, with half an inch to spare.