'76Mintgrun'02

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About '76Mintgrun'02

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  • Gender Male
  • Location Kingston, WA (The Evergrun State)

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  1. In my car the rust ran under that bulkhead, so I took it out completely to treat the rusty pan. You can assess whether there might be rust under yours, once the last of the tar mat is removed. If so, I would carefully cut the pan underneath the flange and drill out the spot welds. Then your new patch could run underneath it.
  2. I run a "regular distributor", so I do not know much about the 123... but, I do believe the following information applies to both. Since the crankshaft rotates TWICE for every camshaft rotation (eg a 2 stroke cycle), then the distributor also rotates ONCE for every TWO times that the crank turns. Distributor Speed = Cam Speed = 1/2 Crank Speed. Since the flywheel is mounted to the end of the crankshaft, they turn together. Therefore, since the crank turns twice for each distributor turn, if you turn the distributor by 5 degrees, then this will alter the crank timing by 10 degrees. Tom <<Edit>> I swiped the last two paragraphs from this site http://1931chevrolet.com/specs7d.htm
  3. You came to the right place, Noel. Welcome. The search box in the upper right corner of the screen works pretty well. The default mode is set to search for the terms you enter in the TITLES of previous posts. You can click on the little arrow there and select ALL CONTENT and it will typically bring up more 'hits'. Another searching option is to click on the magnifying glass (to the left of the search box) and use the GOOGLE search feature. This usually gets the most hits. What I like to do is to scroll down the list of matches and click on the ones that look promising, using the mouse's roller as the clicker. This will bring each one up in a new tab, while keeping the list tab open as well. Adding or subtracting one word in your search query can make a huge difference in what comes up, so it pays to experiment a little. Adding photos to a post has gotten easier. I don't have any experience doing it from a phone, but I use a little camera that takes an SD card. I put the photos in my computer (by inserting the card) and then simply click on choose files... below; then click PICTURES, followed by the appropriate folder, to find the ones I want to share. A double click on the particular photo will load it onto the site. (it's fun) Tom
  4. I am by no means an expert, but do have several 320i parts on my car. The steering wheel looks a lot like the 2002 wheel that was used in the late cars, but is one inch smaller in diameter and is made of a 'foamy' material, which is softer to grip. You do have to add a horn contact and a small spacer to make them work, but that is not difficult. Some people like the wider mirror from the 320i, but you'll need to notch the arm for the windshield seal, or try and pop the mirror off of the ball and move it to the arm from the 2002 mirror. The sun visors in the 320i have notches and wings to fit around the mirror and they will fit your 2002. The water divider is useful to people installing dual carbs. I used the push button defroster switch as a driving light switch. The little white plastic thumb nuts that hold the covers on the back of the tail lights are the same. that's all I've got... You could also search the archives a bit. This question comes up so often that it should probably be covered in the articles section. (not that I am volunteering, mind you)
  5. My calipers were dragging due to rust in the bores. The problem was only in the outer quarter inch or so (outside of the seals). It was not very hard to scrape that rust off and they have worked well ever since. I am happy to share more information, if this turns out to be your problem.
  6. Any opinions about switching back and forth?
  7. A year or two ago someone was selling some on eBay, which were all clear; but they were ALL plastic, as in, no metal. There was talk on the FAQ about painting the backside silver, to resemble the chrome frame on an original lens. The lenses in your photos look like they may be that type. Okay, curiosity got the better of me, so I took John's advice and found this thread these are from the second post in that thread. http://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-2002-tii-turbo-Clear-turn-signal-lenses-Assemblies-02-e10-ti-Alpina-/131500421236?hash=item1e9e093074 (the seller no longer has any for sale) hth. Tom
  8. (Quote taken from the duplicate thread...) I agree with ray_ 20W-50 VR-1 for me : )
  9. other

    ... perhaps you could add a siccative, to speed it up?
  10. I have never been inside a Solex, but this looks right to me.
  11. Sometimes a little soapy water will show you where the leak is.
  12. if it dropped below the clutch line, the problem is in your brakes... not the clutch. if it stopped at the clutch line, look at the clutch components again.
  13. The nut that attaches the throttle linkage may be a little loose as well. The one right between the two arrows in your photo. See how the little keeper tab is not aligned with a flat side, nor up tight? You might see if you can tighten that nut up and then tap that tab back up against it... (mine wiggled loose last fall).
  14. I was referring to the little slotted screws that secure the top of the carb itself, underneath the air cleaner. Those screws are amazingly soft, so try and use a screwdriver that fits them well, or they are easily deformed. The metal the carb is made from is also soft, so don't overtighten them. Just make sure they have not come loose. The amount of grunge implies that fuel has been seeping out for some time. That plugged nipple does imply that your engine has been de-emissioned. More photos of the engine bay would make it easier to identify which bits and pieces you still have. The reactor was part of the exhaust manifold, so a photo of that might be helpful. I see a vacuum dashpot/switch deal on your firewall, with no vacuum lines coming off of it. (upper left corner of the second to last photo) My car came that way, with things disconnected, but still under the hood. Cleaning up the engine bay by removing that stuff can be satisfying, but not nearly as satisfying as cleaning that carburettor will be!
  15. In your first photo, showing the carb's model number, the nut above that number looks quite loose. I would suggest putting a wrench on all four of those nuts and snug'em up a little bit. I would also make sure the screws that hold the top on are not coming out. The blocked off port on the weber simply gives you the option of moving the inlet nipple to either side, then you put the plug in the other. The plugged nipple at the manifold under the carb was part of the emissions system, which has been disabled.