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    • steve k.

      Introducing FAQ Memberships   04/17/2017

      I would like to introduce everyone to the FAQ memberships. A fun way to fund the site and to contribute for those who are interested.    Everyone starts as a Solex Member.  This membership is free and not much visible is changing (I limited the personal message storage to 150).   Kugelfischer membership.  As a reward for your donation of $20.02 per year, you will not see any external advertisements, the site will look cleaner and run a bit faster. You will also get a couple of BMW 2002 FAQ Stickers.   Turbo Membership.  As a reward for your donation of $50.02, you will not see any external advertisements, the site will look cleaner and run a bit faster.  You will also get unlimited Personal Message storage, ability to create Private and Restricted Photo Albums. You will also get a couple of BMW 2002 FAQ Stickers and a Bottle Opener.   Alpina Membership.  As a reward for your donation of $100.02 per year, you will not see any external advertisements, the site will look cleaner and run a bit faster.  You will also get unlimited Personal Message storage, ability to create Private and Restricted Photo Albums, and an ability to upload Movies to the gallery. You will also get a couple of BMW 2002 FAQ Stickers, a Bottle Opener, and discounts on our accessories at the store.   There is also a fancy title that comes with each membership.  

'76mintgrun'02

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About '76mintgrun'02

  • Rank
    Master Tinker

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  • Gender Male
  • Location Kingston, WA (The Evergrun State)

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  1. Junk Dizzy?

    Does the model number end in #164? Vacuum advance is a good thing. It'd be worth having rebuilt, for someone. Not worth running as is, imho.
  2. Junk Dizzy?

    That is just what happens when they wear. It is due to the fiber washers going away. There should be one between the gear and the body and one inside the body. Based on the amount of movement, you are probably missing both of them. Not that it matters really. It needs to be opened up and cleaned, lubed and shimmed back to spec, which is about .004" of axial play... based on what I have read. Shim kits are available for less than $20 and come with a variety of washers. As you probably know, places like Advanced Distributors will rebuild them for around $200. The amount of wear on the internal parts is what really matters. That play is to be expected and is easily corrected. If the cam on the center post is worn, from the points rubbing block, then it starts seeming like a parts distributor. Or, if the weights' pivot holes get elongated and the end lobes get flat spots, then the same is true. Basically that is what they'll all do, eventually. Advanced will most likely replace everything but the case. At least that is what I have seen in the few I looked at. I have had some fun trying to make a few old ones work well. I am very happy with the one I am using now, which I got used and simply 'freshened it up' a bit. The one I am using has a date stamp on the inside from '96 though, so it is a low mileage example. Long answer, I know. These things are a hobby in themselves. The short answer is that it is hard telling, not knowing. The only way to really know is to open it up and look at the innards. That means drilling out the pin in the gear (carefully). Or, you can access the advance weights from above and can easily inspect the cam on the center post. If you think this answer is long, check out this thread ; ) It will show you some of what I found out about how they tend to wear.
  3. site problems

    Perhaps you guys could post which browser you are using and whether you have Java enabled... I went to the "Site Problems" forum to see if anyone was talking about this there, but the issues there seem a little different. I am using Chrome and it seems to be working fine. There have been changes, such as needing to click on items in the menu bar, to have the options drop down (used to only have to pass the cursor over them), but I can still see the options. Someone in the problems forum lost the bar completely. That forum would probably be a good place for this thread, since Steve monitors it and seems good about responding. Having it here will definitely lead to more discussion though
  4. Bushing /mount help

    That looks like a rubber mount for a stock air cleaner housing. I have not installed a single barrel version, but the two barrel style uses three of those. I don't recall seeing such-a-thing used on the transmission. Do you still need them, if they do not go to the transmission? Buckeye posted a link to them where they cost about $2 each, as opposed to $20 through BMW. I can dig it up if you need it. EDIT: the e21 used a rubber mount between the back of the shifter platform and the tunnel, but it was a hollow thing which was much softer than the one in your photo.
  5. Help with intake manifold nuts

    If you can get a grinder under there, you might grind off the tip of the stud and a little of the top of the nut, since someone apparently hammered on them and may have buggered up the exposed threads. If you grab the manifold by the number four runner, can you wiggle it up and down at all. Is there enough play on the other studs/holes to get any movement at the remaining stud/nut?
  6. How to remove rear stub axle

    I used a strap wrench, when I undid those bolts on the bench. This one is a little less than $10 at Home Deepo
  7. Help with intake manifold nuts

    I skinnied up a cheapo box end wrench for that, using the bench grinder. (haven't tried it yet)
  8. That black 'plastic' piece is a slippery surface for the advance weights to slide on. They get brittle and fail. They are still available and I happen to have one, since I ordered two when I worked on the distributor in the following link (although the new one is sort of pink). If you continue reading the next few posts in that thread there is more info that may be helpful... In the photo I copied from above you can see the end of one of the advance springs off to the side, where it shouldn't ought to be. Or, it could be one of the little 'hair pin clips' that hold the weights on their pins. You can see what I am talking about in the link above. There are shim washers inside the distributor which take up vertical play in the shaft. Two of the washers are 'fiber washers', one inside and one between the gear and the body, at the base of the distributor. The one inside usually fails and crumbles, leaving too much vertical slop. This translates into a bouncing BB on the flywheel, under the timing light, which indicates erratic timing. I'm afraid your distributor is due for an overhaul.
  9. Aftermarket spring colors

    I don't know about the springs, but I am curious whether you are using Bilstein Sport shocks. A lot of people find them to be too stiff; although the struts are apparently okay.
  10. Hard to Troubleshoot Rough Idle

    Every so often I like to put a wrench on the four nuts that hold the carb on and a screw driver on all the screws that keep its top on. They can get a bit loose as the gaskets compress/age. I know you said your wires are new and that pulling each one had about the same effect, but Bosch wires do not have a very good reputation, in recent years. If you decide to replace them, I have been happy with the set I got from Kingsborne. They make them up right there in California. Nice write up. Sorry I don't have more to offer.
  11. Monterey Or Bust!

    I drove down to San Francisco back when I first moved to WA in '91. On my way back up 101, I picked up a hitch hiker with puppies and she gave me one. Lydia was a good dog. Keep your eyes peeled and maybe you will get lucky too! Tom
  12. 6 Areas of Rust - Seeking Opinions

    I'd say it is time to pull the seats/console/carpet/tar mats and really see what all you are dealing with. Removing the original sound deadener is a bit of a messy job, but dry ice can make it go a bit easier. I'd personally stay away from the heat gun approach, since I don't like sticky stinky stuff. When I did mine, I left the tar mats stuck to the tunnel and the panel behind the back seat and just stripped the floors, since there was no sign of corrosion up there. The area around the pedal box is not included in a floor pan section, so there will be some fabrication involved, or a panel cut from a donor car. My rust was fairly isolated, so I opted to hammer out the patch panels, rather than buying them. You will know much more about what you are dealing with, once you are looking at it from above.
  13. Signal flasher upgrade easy to do & what a difference

    Did you have a friend help you? https://www.wimp.com/man-pranks-his-friend-by-wiring-the-horn-to-the-brakes/
  14. Help : Brake Cylinder - Trans - Diff

    looks a little leaky. like mine. working, but leaking. that means the front seal is doing its job, but the back one isn't. probably a good idea to have one on hand. as you probably know, brake fluid lifts paint and leads to rust. it is a pretty easy job to swap the master cylinder. pushing the feed line into the rubber grommet is the biggest pain. cleaning up the wet rusty mess takes the most time. sort of a sore topic here lately.