'76mintgrun'02

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About '76mintgrun'02

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  • Gender Male
  • Location Kingston, WA (The Evergrun State)

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  1. My BMW stamped (probably original) resonator has developed some rattles inside. JohnS, you just made me enviouS. He don't need no stinkin stainless steel. I would love to hear a sound clip, once you get that installed. Turn up the WoOfer.
  2. Here is a photo of one of mine, showing where they tend to rust-up and stick. Here the reason you should probably just purchase new ones
  3. Yes, the horn button is on the wheel in the 2002, but on the column in an E21. It is not hard to bridge that gap. There are write ups on the FAQ about it, with multiple options. I used a piece of brass shim stock on mine and attached it using one of the existing screws (and a little piece of plastic I made). Be sure to grease that little guy, or he will squeak. All good now. You will probably also need to add a little spacer under the wheel. I think research recommended a quarter of an inch, but I got away with less. -Tom
  4. I don't think Jeff does much at all with the vacuum pots, does he? People have said he recommends eliminating that feature on their vacuum advance distributors (carbureted engines). I can see why he might do that. The vacuum 'map' is going to vary between engines and without that information, he cannot predict how it will act. I mapped my vac signal and put that on the advance curve I made. Then plotted the curve using both sources of advance, manifold and ported. The vac map would allow me to know what is happening to the curve, while driving, as opposed to the mechanical only equation. Revving the engine in the carport, to make that map may well be different than what happens under load. I don't know. I just think there may be too many unknowns for him to be able to include that aspect. Just a guess... or two. I believe vac advance is g00d for carbed cars. thus, eliminating it may be a short cut. I do not see the reason for vac retard, other than emissions, but I am new to this. The thing is, the spark is a response to the fueling situation, as in, more advance is needed when the mix is slower to burn. Carbs do a crappy job of prepping the mix to explode, compared to injected cars, so more advance is needed. the reason I bring this up is because they changed the Kfish characteristics year to year (right?) and so the corresponding advance is different. Hence, the specific pump/year/distributor relationship... as I understand it. Jeff has a good reputation and probably for good reason. If you had him make the 008 you have work for your engine, that would be a good selling point and the buyer would know where to go if they needed something changed. I really think he can take almost any distributor and make it do what you need it to, if he has a few new parts to choose from. I also think the only way to really dial in the BEST (ish) curve is with a WB02 sensor and a dyno. Oh, might as well add a knock sensor to the equation (like the legendary jimK). This is where the 123 would be an awesome tool, even for the originality freaks (no offense, I'm with ya). You could have the car on a dyno, with a sensor and tweak that curve (with your freaking phone), to get it just right. Then have someone like Jeff replicate THAT curve using cool little weights and springs. Someone in that last thread-link I posted referred to a distributor guy who would only do the 'complete package', pump, valve and distributor (iirc). That makes total sense, but would not be cheap. I'll bet if you took the weights, springs and center post out of a 180 013 and put them in your 180 008, you would have the 180 013 curve. I'll also bet Jeff has a lot of nice new bits and pieces to choose from. Time for me to Google "Distributors Anonymous". -Tom
  5. "turf the pedal" good one, Bryan. on carbureted engines, you have two choices for vacuum source, manifold and ported. There is an ongoing debate about which to use and I am in the ported camp. With ported vacuum, what you say is true. No advance is being added at idle (although none should be coming from the weights at that rpm either). However, using manifold vacuum pulls in advance at idle as well. The difference in those 'sources' is above or below the throttle plates. I have no clue about the tii and what the vacuum source options are. as for finding one, I wish I could help... I just missed this sale on the FAQ a couple of weeks ago, which included the OTHER 013 unit. (darn! darn! darn! -- addicted, you see)
  6. I'll add my 1% and agree about vacuum retard, vs advance for the x xxx 180 013. Pilot, that helps me understand its function. I forgot that the vacuum source makes a huge difference; meaning ported, vs. manifold vacuum. I sort of understand how this works with a carburetted engine, but not the tii. You may have already found this thread, Paul, but I will drop it here just in case. They explain that there are TWO distributors which end in 013, just like the 008! The model that JAS mentions is the one you are after 0231 180 013, not the 0231 168 013. They also mention the relationship between the distributor and the specific Kfish for your engine, as well as that decel valve. All those parts have to play well together. Complicated-er and complicated-er-er. This is one of those 'the more you learn, the more you realize how little you know' topics for me. -Tom
  7. are you sure you can take it ray_? you sure can dish it out! In a good way ray_ ... in a GOOD way! (I appreciate the humor you bring to this site) Tom
  8. I went back and forth about whether to sell some stuff here, or on eBay. In the end, I left it there, but had also made this post here, so... Everything is in the auction format, with a buy-it-now option. PayPal fees and Shipping to the lower 48 is included in the prices. I will place a list of the items here, with prices; to save you the hassle of clicking the link. So, here it goes: $ starting bid / $ Buy-It-Now NLA -- OEM -- RARE -- Hard To Find -- Sought After -- Brand SpAnkin' New -- Pedal Box Outer Insulation Cover ! ( AKA - Clutch - Fluid - SpOnge ) $45 / BIN (went away with the first bid). Bosch Red Coil $44 / $60 E21 Coolant Divider $40 / $60 (minimal pitting) Passenger Door Latch Mechanism $28 / $48 (nice plating) Passenger Door Handle Mechanism $16 / $32 (lookin good) MSD Tach Adaptor $20 / $32 (I run points) http://www.ebay.com/sch/bomtrock/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_ipg=&_from= bomtrock | eBay www.ebay.com Shop eBay for great deals from bomtrock! (sorry for the cuTco clutter) Thanks for looking.
  9. Kingsborne (mentioned above) will make wire a set in a plastic loom for you, if you ask. It won't have a Bosch mark on it though.
  10.  thx  for your help  will try to figure it out!!

  11. That is pretty hardcore Ted! Reminds me of this photo of Tim Burton Here are a few of photos of the wire retainers I mentioned above. My car has the coil mounted forward, so I pass that wire through the clips as well... hence, larger clips. I used size 12 up front and 16 in the back (denoting 1/16ths of an inch). One solution might be to rob the rubber off of these clips and trim it to fit the stock ones. (not OE tho) In the last photo you can see a kink in one of the wires, from when they were installed in the original clip. It did not cut into the sheath, but it did not do it any favors. It probably has something to do with cramming 8mm wires into that clip. That is the number two wire, which they should make a little longer, imho. (I have two sets of their wires and used two of number one, the second time around).
  12. OBD zero... While you are searching, look up Pat Allen's diagnostic box. Super cool tool. Tom
  13. Well, since you are not likely to use it, I will understand if you don't want to come all the way down to spin it. The invitation stands though. There are two pins on the bottom of the center post. One is long and the other short, so they only go back in one way. The weights are 'interchangeable' as are the springs, but I like to put things back where they were, because they have worn to 'fit' there. That model has nice little E-clips holding the weights on, instead of the 'hairpins' that some have. The hairpins wear through and dig grooves... and stuff. I found a source for new ones, but they want $5 each for those silly little things. Anyway, it is really easy to pry up on the center post and overcome the little circlip that keeps it on. Leave the felt plug in the top, if you do this, or it can pop up and hit you in the face. It actually stings a little! If it has too much axial play in the shaft, you can drill into the pin from the little end and push it out. I just use a 5/32" x 3/4" roll pin as a replacement, which makes it really easy to get back in there. I usually drill into the pin just as deep as the gear is thick there, then push it out. Some come out easier than others, they may be ones that someone has been into already. Here is a link to the post where I pulled that one apart. Be careful though. I find distributors to be a little addictive. Tom
  14. WHAT?!? No photos?? Was the 'slippery pad' intact, under the weights? (I just had that model apart and put some photos/info in my distributor thread).
  15. I repaired this steering pad with thickened epoxy, underneath the ignition switch, where a little chunk was missing. Much nicer on the knuckles now. There are some cracks on the other side and a little ding on the bottom. $22 shipped. The boot was purchased new a few years ago. No tears, or anything like that. $22 shipped. (SOLD) PayPal preferred. PM for my info. (free shipping is to lower 48 states only) Thanks, Tom