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About im3crazy

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  1. Nice looking car. Yes, it's a mistake to list a vehicle on CL and leave an '02 in the background! Ask me how I know. My 1982 R100RS for sale on CL in Baltimore. Responses on the RS= 2; calls on the '02=23. (no the 69 is not for sale, but I'll make you a great deal on the '82
  2. There are many approaches to this. Here's a BMW parts diagram that shows the original stock options. This varied by year. Hope it's helpful. When I installed mine, I used a set of hole matching brackets that came with the seats (still in the plastic bags).
  3. Thanks for the suggestions. Here's an update with an overlay and hot zone for the filiment "sweet spot." The right and left bulbs are possible LED replacements. The red lines show the optimum filiment location. The center image is a "standard" H3 halogen bulb. All three bulbs are centered on the same plane as their base plates to show above and below mounting plate dimensions, and their probable focus points. The Calais brand bulb on the left at least shows the light output area in the zone. I am concerned that the length below the plate (14mm cmpared to 10 for the standard) The bulb on the right is WAY out; notice the overall height. I wonder if this would even fit inside my Hellas? I might try just to make this a realistic test. Next step is ordering these and a fitment and output test. Guess I'll be looking for a candela/ lumens output app for the Android!
  4. Trying out converting from xenons in the headlights (H1) and in the Hella 500 driving lights (H3). There seems to be adequate H1 substitutions out there with near-exact output. But I have NOT found any H3 bulbs worth trying in my older Hella 500's as DDLs I've done a lot of site & Google searches, but no one (except a guy with a Jeep in 2010 on a sales site) mentions: (1) If the H3 LED bulbs fit dimensionally as well as focus in the reflector, front and rear in the mount ( 18mm from baseplate to filament center incandescent/halogen) and (2) output enough to be a reasonablly good Daytime Driving Light. [I'm not thinking that any LED at this point would be even close to the xenon/halogens output] Suggestions on a good H3 LED?? Thanks, Dave in Baltimore
  5. Adjusting cluster rheostat changes gauge readings. Searching for similar problems I found this older thread. 1. On my 1960 02 when I turn the cluster rheostate the fuel and temp gauges increase or decrease about 1/4 readings up/down and stay there. 2. My gauges are erratic with tapping and with bumps- especially bangin the top of dashboard (probably this one is the gauge studs on circuit board) 3. Things I have done/ NOT done: a. added OEM ground strap between engine, block, battery b. Cleaned, bared star washered and dielectric siliconed the 1. dash/firewall ground point 2. trunk ground point c. NOT added separate ground strap to cluster yet - d. NOT yet prayed or sacraficed to various teutonic gods for a spontaneous resolution of this fault -not of my own doing, of course. Any ideas appreciated. I willl update this thread when i fix this problem...
  6. im3crazy


  7. BMW 2002, 1976, Automatic, Fjord Metallic Blue, 65,000 miles. Elegant and Super Clean; unmolested rare original sunroof, original California car. Many mechanical upgrades; new brakes, bottle cap rims and tires, 320mm Nardy custom wood steering wheel; professional recent transmission rebuild still under two years warranty, original engine and solid Solex carb; runs smoothly, handles well, and has good pickup. Spotless blue matching interior. Late model radio/CD/MP3 & speakers. Excellent 5 speed upgrade candidate (larger transmission tunnel for easy swap). Overall very solid condition with the exception of a few paint dings that need some attention. Close friend is downsizing and car has to go. Asking $11,500 obo Craigslist ad Baltimore: http://baltimore.craigslist.org/cto/5783153580.html CHECK OUT AN AWESOME TOUR OF THIS CAR DRIVER CHAZ REIGN
  8. A few hints from my similar experiences - hope these help. BTW- answer to your question "do these ever work this way..." Yes. interlocks on some models work this way (see below) Beware of model year/wiring harness mismatches: I've worked on at least 5 '02's in the last year that had wire harness upgrades from original year to later models (74>) These come with the wonderful interlock circuits and relays. So the interlock relay and other components may be present on these. Wiring type mismatches: Additionally, on one of the cars, an automatic harness was retrofitted to a manual. IIRC there are two wires to the interlock relay (BLK/BLK from ign switch) that I have seen jumped, or are connected to a relay. Weird shit done by POs: I'm currently T/S a problem in a 1970 02- brake pedal (or other heavy amp load) must be depressed (active) to start car! In this case there is a PO alarm with starter interrupt installed that could be part of prob. Tracing out the circuits is usually the only reliable way to locate the problem. MANY times I find faulty/wonky multi pin connectors that work most of the time, but not ALL of the time.
  9. FUEL LINE SPECIFICATIONS & Unknown recalls: Beware. MB & 2 BMWs. I have lost a newly restored 1972 MB 450 and had leaks on a BMW R100rs due to dealer-provided rubber hose lines. The "original replacement" spec did not include the substitution of a newer product that was resistant to our newer methanol and other chemical additives. The R100 was actually leaching the alcohol component through the pot-metal carbs, and the hose lines were melting. I changed those lines. I DID NOT change the high pressure fuel lines on the MB. These melted as well and resulted in a catastrophic fire (I discharged two 2ABC fire extinguishers and it still burned) fire dept arrived in 4 minutes, but still too late. Totalled 1998 M3: Factory recalled fuse box burned - contained to the fuse box and that portion of the wiring harness- no open flames under hood- $1,500 insurance repair. Now, I make sure the rubber is Euro-spec and/or is certified for modern fuels and their additives. I frequently check for recalls on the newer vehicles. PS: I carry two 2lb or single 5lb extinguishers in every vehicle and a 5ABC Halon in cab and a10A 8BC unit on running boards of my Dodge Power Wagon. Oxidation is not our friend - fast (fire) or slow (rust)
  10. The O is a preset for a "news, talk radio station" the grace note is for your favorite "music" preset and the others select (1) the favorite station on the tuning band location and (2) sets the radio to appropriate respective frequency as follows in german: L = Langwelle (long wave) M = Mittelwelle (medium wave) K = Kurzwelle (short wave) AND if FM tuning section is present in the radio- U = Ultrakurzwelle (ultra short wave) FM with frequently another U and a second preset FM station.
  11. Interested in the Panasports if they come up for sale. Thanks!

    Dave in Baltimore, MD

    1. Koblenz


      Absolutely!  I will let you know.  They are pretty cool! Just sitting there in the corner.  They look to be in very good order.

    2. im3crazy


      Shipping from FL should not be too costly.



    3. Koblenz


      UPS from a business. Longwood FL. I just got home.  Had to UBER.  My E46 had a rear strut failure. I will get a hold of the Pana owner tomorrow.  I do apologize.

  12. Im interested if the price is reasonable. In baltimore maryland USA. Thanks!
  13. Thanks guys. I have tried every adjustment of which I am aware, and no difference! We are currently working on 4 other 02's at the shop, and I have inspected them all. The only variable I have not yet worked is the tension pre-load on the torsion bar. Maybe the bar is not "holding up" the latch enough at the point of pre-closure (is that a word?) and it's hitting. This might make sense because the hood is REALLY heavy to lift, and requires full effort to raise. I've never had to pre-load a torsion bar before, but maybe this will be the first time. As I recall assembly, there was little force exerted by the bar...hmmm. perhaps a clue. I will definitely followup on this so others don't have to suffer as well. Dave
  14. Still can't get this one right. I have read all searchable articles and read all posts on this, but have not found any info pointing to which component is the problem. Just finished two other 02's in the shop, and working on another- none except my own car has this problem - luckily! When closing the hood, the side support arms hit when the hood is about 3" above closing. No article, or know adjustment I have tried has solved this. It hit before and after recent paint job. There seems to be at least two varieties of hood supports and torsion bar assemblies. Perhaps a mismatch? Open to suggestions that don't include " do a search" thanks!

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