brakes Rear Drums and the 'W" spring

[arminyack]

Ok folks I;m at a loss here...I need some guidance on how to reinstall the rear drum W spring before I lose my mind. What i am trying right now is to locate one of the ends in a one of the holes, then using a big-ass flat blade screwdriver, I shove and hold the center over its holding tab....now while I am holding this big ass screwdriver in the middle to keep it from popping out, I trying and pry/pull the other end to get it into the hole....and I am not even close. by trying to keep the center behind its holding tab, it shoved the end that is still free back behind the brake shoe on that side. Getting out from there AND getting the end into the hole is proving to be.....not possible, at least with the tools I own, and the way I am doing it.  I've tried putting in both ends, and then trying to shove the center up and over the holding tab...and that seems to be beyond hope as well.

 

Does anyone have a tried and true procedure? 

 

TIA!

[esty]

http://www.bmw2002faq.com/topic/46313-rear-brake-lower-spring-install/

[borgpj]

From the pictures in the BMW manual, it looks like you would insert the spring ends in the two shoes first with the center of the spring outside of the retainer, and then pry the center of the spring over the retainer to it's final location. 

 

 

[bento]

^This.

Took me a while to figure out that if you connect e-brake cable, then attach the big spring to the shoes, get the assembly on the hub and then bar & small spring, it's way easier than prying the big spring out to the hole after everything else is in place.

Did it both ways; 5 minutes quick and easy vs an hour or more of swearing.

Edited January 12, 2016 by bento

[ray_]

From the pictures in the BMW manual, it looks like you would insert the spring ends in the two shoes first with the center of the spring outside of the retainer, and then pry the center of the spring over the retainer to it's final location.  snip_20160111211130.pngsnip_20160111211055.png

 

 

I did it that way.

 

But I used the floor jack to pry the screwdriver upward.

 

heheheh

Edited January 12, 2016 by ray_

[KFunk]

The key trick I use for prying it up over the tab is wedging a long screwdriver between the center of the spring and the concrete floor below you.  The plastic handle of the screwdriver will grip tightly to the floor, and as you push the screwdriver outward it gradually straightens out and push the spring upward.  To get the final lateral boost over the tab, you use a second screwdriver and hammer to tap it over.  

Edited January 12, 2016 by KFunk

[KFunk]

I did it that way.

 

But I used the floor jack to pry the screwdriver upward.

 

heheheh

 

I've done it that way too, but it is sketchy as hell. 

You gotta get that jack to hold steady with a lot of tension behind it.

 

Once I figured out how to get the more stable floor to help me, it was a lot more 'predictable.'

Edited January 12, 2016 by KFunk

[ray_]

I've done it that way too, but it is sketchy as hell. 

You gotta get that jack to hold steady with a lot of tension behind it.

 

 

 

I used the stable floor, to hold the jack steady.

 

[sirius815]

I've had no trouble putting the two ends in the hole first, then used a big screwdriver as mentioned by hand - no hammer, jack, floor required. No real issues, just tight.

[arminyack]

I did it that way.

 

But I used the floor jack to pry the screwdriver upward.

 

heheheh

Genius! Ill try this

[Guy Cocquyt]

I insert one end in one hole, use a screw driver to lever the centre of the W spring behind the tab, then using vice grips on the other end to guide it into the other securing hole. Repeat 50 times until it works. :-)

Sent from my SM-T110 using Tapatalk

[TobyB]

Easy-

 

Unbolt rear hubs.

Unbolt rear drums.

Toss drums in recycling.

Install 320i drums.

Never look back.

 

Dream of discs, simply for the reduced maintenance.

How often do the disc brake adjusters freeze up, I ask you?

 

hee

 

t

(mortally terrified of those springs, btw.)

[JohnH]

You thread the W spring into place, insert one end and hold it with a g-clamp, then grab the other end with a pair of pliers and pop it in. Simples.

 

 

 

[arminyack]

I should mention that I have the 1600-2 200mm rear drums...so i have a little bit less room to dig around in there with a pair of pliers. It may not be much difference....but trust me, space is tight back there! I will try using 2X C-clamps to hold the ends in, then a floor jack on a big-ass screwdriver to force the middle over. 

 

 

I have thought about upgrading the brakes (I'm not thrilled with the braking ability of the 1600) The brakes arent bad...but I do like uber braking ability when I need it! I actually have aquired a rear set of 320i brakes, but what is entailed to get them in, I do not fully grasp, as I do not have an 02 rear end, but a 1600, so I dont know if its a simple bolt on or not. AND if I do put them on, then I must look at the front brakes, so I'd go with 320i up there as well.

 

As far as whats in there now....I am assuming 1600 standard faire....but is it?

 

Edited January 12, 2016 by arminyack

[bento]

1600-2 is two piston/single line for front calipers. 2002 is four piston/dual line. Not sure whether there are dimensional differences as well (rotor size, caliper bolt pattern, etc). The Volvo calipers are dual line like the 2002.

However, the Wilwood kits offered by Massive and IE are single line. Not sure how those would match up with your master cylinder but I'm sure either one of these suppliers will know.