sirius815
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Everything posted by sirius815
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So, I'm an idiot and cross-threaded one of the inner mounting points for the rear seat belts and bugged up the thread repair... :( Are there replacement mounts available? I haven't been under the car for a minute, but last I remember they looked to be replaceable from below. It's either that or just use a longer bolt + nut for the time being :/.
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Well, pretty much any map that's applicable for a M10 motor would work as a starting point.
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Does anybody have an advance curve that is anywhere close to a 292 Cam'd, Dual DCOE M10, preferably a 3D one using TPS? Maybe some of you 123tune guys?
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Free moving, non-bent left and right seat sliders? -
I'll take them. Shipping to Fort Belvoir should be less than $20, doesn't have to be priority either - zip code is 22060. -
By fully functional I take it that they are not bent? Do they have both ball bearings in each channel along with the two rollers? What's the condition of the O-ring on the roller s? -
Bump.
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I haven't heard anything back. My number is ...... if you want to call/text instead of going through the forum.
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Lsd?
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Head gasket blew. Found a good deal on another engine with dcoe's and IE 292 cam. Switched engines out with plans of cleaning this one up and putting it back together. As it currently sits, the block and head are clean, intake manifold needs some media blasting, valve and timing covers need media blasting and potentially some paint.
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Does anybody in the NOVA area want/need a mostly disassembled M10?
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Yes, still here. I'll have to get you new pictures if needed. The block is cleaned up really well and painted a satin black color. The head is cleaned (non painted). Oil pan is not dented and looks really nice (painted). Intake manifold could use some cleaning up. Everything is there to make a running engine, just needs new gaskets. I have an oil pan gasket that is going to be on it. Weber 32/36 has water choke and sync link kit (not adjusted for the link yet), but should still have all the pieces to convert back. Engine ran great before taken out of the car. Give me call if you'd like 8one2 - six04-six12six. Ben K.
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Just an FYI - Tom has the 36-1 crank-trigger pullies back in stock (http://www.02again.com/?page_id=358) for those wishing to move to an EDIS setup or other standalone timing/management system. Personally, I plan on running a Microsquirt module to control timing with TPS signal and use an MSD box for better spark - currently running 292 cam + DCOE 40s. Ben K. -
So I placed new door jam switches in during some resto work, however, does anybody know where to get the grommet/nipple piece that pushes on the switch or other hack solutions?
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I do. It is a stock flywheel. I also have the clutch and pressure plate.
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https://1drv.ms/f/s!AmaBcmuBCJO7geFp7OjjgUGDg5tPnw The link has pictures of pretty much everything. The box of baggies has all the nuts/bolts that came off of it. The blue tub (hard to see) has the intake manifold, clutch, flywheel, pressure plate, starter, and alternator. Carb is a 32/36 water choke. I forgot to take a picture of the oil pan, but it is freshly painted (graphite color) with no dents.
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The head is a '74 E12.
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middle of Missouri. I'm sure we can work something out.
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engine and drivetrain Possible bad wheel bearing - no end play...
sirius815 replied to sirius815's topic in BMW 2002 and other '02
Caliper is definitely not touching the rotor. I'll get a new set of bearings on order and inspect the spindle and inside the hub during the R&R. Any particular grease that you guys prefer? I used Valvoline disc brake wheel bearing grease last time I repacked the bearings. -
Alright, so I've gone through and replaced a ton of stuff on the '73 over the past four years and haven't put many miles on her. When I finally got her running again, I had an oops when I lost a wheel nut due to not tightening them down all the way and broke a stud. Not a proud moment...Replaced the stud, new lug nut good to go right... Drove the car again a few weeks ago (after doing the entire front brake system) and kept hearing a grinding noise as if the calipers were dragging a bit. Jacked the front end up and found end play on the drivers side and some noise from the caliper when spinning the wheel. Tightened the nut (right where end play stopped) and the grinding/scraping noise is gone, just a slight touch of the pad on the rotor all the way around - within spec I presume. The passenger side is a different story - there was no end play, but the grinding/scraping was much worse when spinning the wheel. Just because, I tightened the nut some more and noise never went away and I also gained some noise from the wheel bearing. (remember this is the side where I sheared a wheel stud). So I'm thinking about replacing the wheel bearing on that side - the rotor is brand new (after stud had sheared), pads are brand new, calipers are rebuilt units that look good...could it be the hub itself that's slightly out of spec? Sorry for the long post. Thoughts?
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Not to mention talking to Jim is always awesome! Or talk to Teddy.
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So I have my old M10 still sitting in the garage mostly taken apart block is put together and painted, oil pan is clean and painted, head is cleaned (stock cam). Everything looks in good condition and ran great when in the car (bought a replacement M10 that came with 292 cams). The valve cover, and front covers have been previously painted and look okay. The intake manifold needs a good cleaning, but I'll likely take care of that. The Weber 32/36 (water choke) is also in good condition and comes with the sync link kit installed.I have the alternator, timing chain, water divider, and possibly a starter to with it. It's essentially turn-key after gaskets and a dizzy. No gaskets have been replaced yet and no I do not have them to go on either. This would be a perfect candidate that wants to put their own touch on it with minimal work. I'm open to offers, but looking for around $600. I can part with individual pieces as long as there are multiple buyers so I can appease the missus and clear space in the garage.
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Just went out to look, sorry for the delay. I thought I had some left over, but I don't. I did find a 8mm spark plug wire to go between the dizzy and the coil. Brand new, red in color.
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Anybody have a good (must be working) brake booster? Tii or non, doesn't matter. Tii'd be sweet though.
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All parts are OBO. Offers welcome
