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Guy Cocquyt

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  • Location
    Cochrane, Alberta
  • Interests
    Restoring a lovely 1970 BMW 2002a,
    Previous BMW's include a 1977 320i, 1995 320i, 1986 528e, 1972 2002 4 speed, 1987 325e 4 dr, and a 1990 325is. Earlier on I had a 1957 Triumph TR3 and that is where my love of old cars comes from.

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  1. Definitely worth replacing the rear cylinders which should come with new bleeders. Also the old rubber lines often times collapse inside and act like one-way valves. Good work on replacing the rear adjuster nuts. Would be interested in pictures if you can post them.
  2. Funny, the car seems unmolested save for the dash and steering wheel swap.
  3. If you don't find one through the forum, try 2002ad.com. They are based in SoCal and have a large selection of used parts. Le the part you want la not in their online catelog, call them.
  4. The holes to the right ( arrow) are for the reflectors, there is a matching set on the left too. The circled ones could be for a badge, my badge was to the right in the same location.
  5. I had a 1978 320i and experienced ghis problem. There were cracks in the rubber bellows between the air filter and the intake manifold. Couldn't see them unless you took the bellows off and flexed it. Temporary fix is duct tape followed by ordering new parts.
  6. How "stock" do you want to be? if you salvaged the vinyl from your original door cards, it can be stretched on glued and stapled to you new plywood door cards. The problem with plywood is getting it thin enough for the green plastic press fasteners to fit through properly. If you have fitment issues and aren't fussy about a stock look, you can fasten your new door cards with black headed screws with grommets which are available through most automotive parts stores. Just need to predrill holes for the screws, and ignore the original holes and fasteners.
  7. Hey Raj nice work on the lights. The issue may be those small white rectangular nylon caged nuts. The might be stripped, mine were so I bought a nylon cutting board at a kitchen shop and fabricated new ones using a fine tooth saw, a drill bit and some sand paper for final fit. They worked like a charm. I also saw a post in the last week where another member found new metal replacements for these nylon nuts.
  8. That's how I learned about it too. I could barely get the gas cap off due to the negative pressure in my gas tank. The PO had also put a screw in the end of the line.
  9. It's a line that goes to the evaporator canister in the trunk. The evaporator canister's job is to capture and regulate air pressure in the gas tank. Excess fumes connect back to the charcoal canister probably missing from your car. I connected mine to a fitting in the air filter cannisters so these gas fumes would be sucked into the carb and burned.
  10. The crank pulley will have a series of indented stapings for TDC, and at least 2 others. I think I remember seeing these as German abbreviations. Once you find them highlight them with white paint to see them in your timing light. This is a 2 person job, one on the light and one turning the distributor housing to get it lined up properly. Also need to have the car idling at about 2,000 rpm. The Haynes manual has a good step by step process laid out for you. Sent from my STH100-1 using Tapatalk
  11. The green fasteners should twist in but if they are tight, try a little sandpaper rolled in a tube to enlarge just enough to trust them I. For punching through vinyl I used a fine exacto knife made a small cross. Sent from my STH100-1 using Tapatalk
  12. So from the heater box side to the right side panel including the bent tab that attaches to the left hand side, the length is 13.25"? And the depth, from the midpoint of the curve, varies from 3" on the right hand side to 2.25" on the left? Thanks, Guy Sent from my STH100-1 using Tapatalk
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