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About bento

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  1. I just signed. Had to change first letter of requested username to be a capital and it went through. Got the same error with all lower case.
  2. 10psi on a tired stock engine got close to your 200hp goal at the wheels. I’ll let you know what 8.5-8.75CR, turbo cam, and around the same boost delivers with a fresh engine in a couple months. For now, here’s what the current setup produced. Green line is 7psi. Red is 10psi. It ran fine like this for a few thousand miles (still does, technically) but boost exacerbated blow by due to worn rings, pushing oil past seals that didn’t previously leak. So I parked it until I can get a rebuilt engine installed Patrick @midnightmotorsport Is working on it and I hope to be up and running by spring with a few other improvements. BTW, a quality exhaust manifold will probably be the most difficult part to source or fabricate. Patrick builds a nice one. Not sure if he would be able to build one for standalone sale, but wouldn’t hurt to ask. It’s a labor intensive part and he’s typically buried in projects.
  3. They’re making great progress! Looking forward to seeing the finished product soon.
  4. It’s sad to me how many cars are locked away and never used for their intended purpose due to their value.
  5. I installed the KMAC’s briefly with IE stage II sport springs. There was a fraction of an inch of adjustment range before the spring contacted the strut tower. I didn’t bother with an alignment and switched to IE coilover conversion with GC camber plates before long. Might be enough to square up the front end of that’s all Pat is after. Ride and noise didn’t seem impacted much, so might be acceptable on a street car. I will say I wasn’t very impressed with build quality based on part of the assembly being metal glued to metal, and not very well. Came apart during install. The parts were sandwiched together once installed, so not a big thing but how about a couple spot welds or screws?
  6. (Edit: assuming whole arm and not just the blade came off) I had this happen on track during a downpour. Fortunately it was the passenger side. When I got home, I determined it was due to the bushings where the wiper mechanism passes through the cowl dry ridding to where they provided no support and the arm was pried off by the free play. Parts were still available from BMW 2 years ago.
  7. Your cup holder is brilliant. I’ve seen those for bicycle handlebars but never would’ve thought to use it on the parking brake. Good luck with sale.
  8. I have run both. IE stage 2 was significantly stiffer than the BAV Auto springs. It was most noticeable in the rear. BAV rear springs would squat quite a bit, while the IE rear springs provided much better support. Not sure if this matters to you, but ride height with the IE springs will be quite a bit higher than the BAV springs. An inch or so, maybe?
  9. Thanks. I’ll be running 200tw something- Hankook RS4, probably. So maybe I’ll start at 350/400 and see how that goes.
  10. Thanks Marshall. I miss the 2002 on the track after a couple years of driving cars that are nearly 2x the weight of the 02. Hoping to get it prepped to be my primary track car later this year. I’m behind schedule for most of this season, but should be safely ready for next year. Still hoping I can get a few fall days in though. I’m running 300lb at all corners currently and it was good for the street, if a little soft in the rear, but too soft on track. This is a helpful starting point.
  11. Very creative solution for reducing the roll bar stiffness. Are you still running 350/450 f/r as your track rates? A quick search of your thread seems to indicate that was what you were on a couple years ago, but maybe I missed an update.
  12. Oops, mis-stated boost levels in my previous post. Fixed for posterity.
  13. It’s probably the most expensive option for 200+hp, short of an S14, if you’re paying a professional. If you’re able to do the fabrication work yourself, you can do a good job with wiring, you understand enough about how an engine runs to tune it yourself, and your engine is still in good condition, you could probably do it for ~$5k. I promised myself at the beginning of my 2002 project that I’d never total up what I spent on the car, so I can’t give you a precise number, but I went the route of paying a professional, and it was probably closer to $20k. I had him convert to fuel injection first and add the turbo later, and I bought a lot of the parts myself, so the total was spread over two years. A stronger clutch is probably something to budget in, but I did that with the 5 speed during an uncommon bout of foresight. The main challenge for either approach is finding a good exhaust manifold. There’s a guy on another forum that makes one, an eBay China special, or custom. I chose to go with the latter as my mechanic was in the process of building a jig to aid fabrication for some other customer turbo cars anyhow. Not sure that would’ve been a viable option for me otherwise. Then you need to be willing to do some cutting of the nose. My radiator was moved a few inches to the driver’s side, and a hole was punched through the core support for the air filter. The valence was cut so an intercooler could be installed behind a turbo style air dam as well. My car is far from pristine, so this didn’t bother me, but I’d struggle with doing the same thing to a nice car. A stock engine will make 180hp/200tq at the rear wheels with just 10psi, or 160/160 at 7psi.That’s almost enough for such a light car. Note how broad the torque curve is. I’m confident this would be reliable power for many years on a low mileage stock M10, but my motor was tired, and the turbo made that more obvious (blow by pressure in the block is pushing oil out all the seals), so now I’m waiting on parts for an engine rebuild. I’m going for a stout build that’ll allow for more boost if I want it, but will be specced pretty close to a mild street build. I-beam rods, 8.75 or 9:1 compression forged pistons, some port work, a turbo cam grind (higher lift, but lower duration than a 272), and an o-ring head gasket. I’m hoping the cam, and port work will gain a bit more 5k-7khp with the same boost levels, but I’m content with current torque, and from what I’ve read, 200lbft is about the limit for what the 245 trans, guibo, and e21 lsd can reliably handle. I don’t really want to test this, and take on the added expense and weight of moving up to the 26x trans and medium case differential. As is, boost is immediate above 3.5k, and comes on just above 2k. Very streetable, usable power and the car will easily keep up with traffic on the freeway. On a track, it still feels underpowered vs most of the modern cars that run at local DE events, but still a massive improvement from N/A and pretty fun.
  14. @Teelinger - I have mixed feelings about it. It is supposed to be an exotic car show. If it was a European, American, or Japanese show, no one would bat an eye. They also fill up on nice days and can afford to be picky in order to curate the assortment they want to present. On the other hand, I didn’t care for a good portion of the crowd in attendance, nor do I find newer cars all that interesting to look at sitting static in a parking lot. So for me, there are other things I’d rather do than go to Exotics @ RTC.
  15. I like the idea. A lot of my summer weekends are spent at the track these days, but I’m sure I’d be able to make it from time to time. Redmond town center is just a few minutes from my house, so super convenient, but I’m put off by this; https://www.exoticsat.com/criteria The events at The Shop have been far more inclusive/open. Another option might be Lake Washington Cars & Coffee. https://m.facebook.com/pages/category/Automotive-Service/LakeWashingtonCarsAndCoffee/about/
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