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    Cars, motorcycles, HiFi

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  1. So, I'm an idiot and cross-threaded one of the inner mounting points for the rear seat belts and bugged up the thread repair... :( Are there replacement mounts available? I haven't been under the car for a minute, but last I remember they looked to be replaceable from below. It's either that or just use a longer bolt + nut for the time being :/.
  2. At night it will increase visibility which means you could drive faster. Ultimately it is safety that's at stake.
  3. I'm actually considering these, though still not quite sold: https://www.theretrofitsource.com/morimoto-super7-jeep-wrangler-led-headlights.html or going straight LED replacement bulb: http://bulbfacts.com/led-kits/chart/
  4. I rewired the entire front end of the car because of this very reason. I personally would NOT push headlights of any kind (well, maybe LED) through the headlight switch. Put in a small relay in an inconspicuous location. Your wiring will thank you and if you stay with halogens, you may actually see an increase in light output if your existing path is dropping the voltage to the headlight (old wiring and switches do cause voltage drops) which in turn creates a dimmer output. A HID ballast will compensate for the lower voltage and just draw more current to keep output up, further stressing wiring.
  5. 2002isGuy - 35W or 55W ballast for the HID? If that is each, you're looking at a consumption of 56.7W PER. Also, a 55W Halogen lamp will not draw a constant 10 Amps... neither 10 Amps nor constant. I'm not 100% sure at what exact voltage a 55W halogen gets it's rating, however because it is a filament type bulb, an increase in voltage will cause an increase in current draw. That being said, I would say that the most current a 55W bulb will draw is ~4.6A at 12V or 5.27A at 13.8V yielding a staggering 72.7W. So this means that on startup, your ballast draws ~5-20% more Amps for a short amount of time than the halogen bulb and ~10-20% less thereafter. Please don't spread the rumor that you have 50% less current draw than a halogen. I will state for the given power draw, you'll be ~30-50% more efficient though and as such produce less heat in the headlight as more power is being converted to visible light and not "wasted" as heat.
  6. Well, pretty much any map that's applicable for a M10 motor would work as a starting point.
  7. Does anybody have an advance curve that is anywhere close to a 292 Cam'd, Dual DCOE M10, preferably a 3D one using TPS? Maybe some of you 123tune guys?
  8. I'll take them. Shipping to Fort Belvoir should be less than $20, doesn't have to be priority either - zip code is 22060.
  9. By fully functional I take it that they are not bent? Do they have both ball bearings in each channel along with the two rollers? What's the condition of the O-ring on the roller s?
  10. I haven't heard anything back. My number is ...... if you want to call/text instead of going through the forum.
  11. Head gasket blew. Found a good deal on another engine with dcoe's and IE 292 cam. Switched engines out with plans of cleaning this one up and putting it back together. As it currently sits, the block and head are clean, intake manifold needs some media blasting, valve and timing covers need media blasting and potentially some paint.
  12. Does anybody in the NOVA area want/need a mostly disassembled M10?
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