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Transmission Advice needed


bianchini

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It looks like my Syncros is going bad on my 5-speed transmission (getrag 240 2 piece out of an e21). When trying to shift into 4th, it pops out of gear as I release the clutch. I am thinking about either getting it fixed/ rebuilt or to purchase one rebuilt or in good shape...

 

I am leaning towards fixing/ rebuilding it as I know exaclty the lifespan left on it once back in. Does anyone know of any good shops that rebuild these old transmissions in the bay area (CA)? The only one I have found so far is Allied Transmissions in Santa Clara.

 

The other option is to purchase a rebuilt/ good shape one. I have a line on one, but I do not know the life span left, so it is a gamble...

 

What are people's thoughts on my situtation? Experience? Advice?

 

Thank you as always!!!!!

Edited by bianchini
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What kind of shift boot does your car have?  It seems the reproduction accordian type rubber boots aren't pliable enough to keep the shifter in the gate -especially 4th.   Temporarily lift up the base so it is loose then try to drive/shift.

Jim Gerock

 

Riviera 69 2002 built 5/30/69 "Oscar"

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What kind of shift boot does your car have?  It seems the reproduction accordian type rubber boots aren't pliable enough to keep the shifter in the gate -especially 4th.   Temporarily lift up the base so it is loose then try to drive/shift.

 

 

I have a leather shift boot. The transmission has been great for years and this is a recent development, so I doubt it is that. I've tried to hold the shifter in 4th and get a horrible screech/ grinding sound. Sometimes it works, the other 90% of the time it doesn't.

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Your transmission might need synchros, but popping out of fourth gear isn't necessarily evidence of that. The problem could be internal to the transmission, or it could be external to the transmission, whether linkage issues or the boot issue Jim raises above. You do need to consult someone knowledgeable of these transmissions, but telling them your synchros are the problem might distract them from diagnosing the problem.

Regards,

Steve

1976 2002 Polaris, 2742541 (original owner)

1973 2002tii Inka, 2762757 (not-the-original owner)

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Your transmission might need synchros, but popping out of fourth gear isn't necessarily evidence of that. The problem could be internal to the transmission, or it could be external to the transmission, whether linkage issues or the boot issue Jim raises above. You do need to consult someone knowledgeable of these transmissions, but telling them your synchros are the problem might distract them from diagnosing the problem.

Regards,

Steve

 

Good point Steve. I took it into a BMW specialist and he said it is probably syncros based on the symptons (they however do not do full transmission work). When I do take it to a transmission specialist, I will just describe the symptons, not my opinion.

 

Following that, should I take just the transmission in or keep it in and show them the problem?

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Good point Steve. I took it into a BMW specialist and he said it is probably syncros based on the symptons (they however do not do full transmission work). When I do take it to a transmission specialist, I will just describe the symptons, not my opinion.

 

Following that, should I take just the transmission in or keep it in and show them the problem?

I think they need to see the transmission in the car in order to make certain they're addressing the problem.

Steve

1976 2002 Polaris, 2742541 (original owner)

1973 2002tii Inka, 2762757 (not-the-original owner)

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Shifter linkage, tranny and shifter supports etc. should be checked carefully before taking out the tranny. It sounds that the gear is not engaging all the way and pops out. To me that doesn't sound like synchro symptom at all. More likely bent or loose linkage, alignment problem or something else preventing the shifter move all the way. As said it may be internal problem too but that wouldn't be my first guess. Also synchro problems appear usually at low gears, 4th and 5th are normally ok.

 

  Tommy 

Racing is Life - everything before and after is just waiting!

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+1 on above diagnosis. Synchro problems usually are evidenced by a graunching when down-shifting - more often second gear goes first. So to speak.

The problem with trying to get it repaired is parts - depending on what is required.Buying new parts will get painful, an then you have a few new parts in an old transmission. I suspect the cost of repairing will quickly surpass the cost of a decent used unit.

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Shifter linkage, tranny and shifter supports etc. should be checked carefully before taking out the tranny. It sounds that the gear is not engaging all the way and pops out. To me that doesn't sound like synchro symptom at all. More likely bent or loose linkage, alignment problem or something else preventing the shifter move all the way. As said it may be internal problem too but that wouldn't be my first guess. Also synchro problems appear usually at low gears, 4th and 5th are normally ok.

 

  Tommy 

 

 

+1 on above diagnosis. Synchro problems usually are evidenced by a graunching when down-shifting - more often second gear goes first. So to speak.

The problem with trying to get it repaired is parts - depending on what is required.Buying new parts will get painful, an then you have a few new parts in an old transmission. I suspect the cost of repairing will quickly surpass the cost of a decent used unit.

 

 

Good information to know. I guess I will put it up on a lift and look at all the "external" factors before I start thinking "Internal"

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Find a transmission shop in your area with a long history. Ask if they are familiar with old BMWs. You may be surprised at the knowledge these guys have.

I agree that it's not likely synchros in the higher gears. Something has come loose, out of alignment, or restricted in movement.

Good luck or $800/$1000 for a complete rebuild which is not bad either.

73 Inka Tii #2762958

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I would definitely check the linkage from underneath first - maybe with someone in the car to move the lever. Also check that the lever stays firmly seated: there is a ball in the middle of the lever that sits between two plastic cups with washers and a spring. The lever should have minimal vertical travel.

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