engine and drivetrain Oil Light Quandry

[TobyB]

I'm still in a quandary over your oil pressure readings, though.

 

Even with a fully stuck valve, I didn't see 100 psi at idle on a cold engine.

 

And you said mechanical gauge, which would tend to be somewhat accurate...

 

t

[nukefrog]

Crappy autozone 12$ gauge so I can't be sure, I'll try again with a better gauge.

Update, the harness attachment to the back of the alternator was loose hence the sputtering oil....error alt light on the dash. Oil light still isn't functioning.

And it was around 30psi cold at idle, rev up to 2500+ and it went past 100psi.

And it was around 30psi cold at idle, rev up to 2500+ and it went past 100psi.

And it was around 30psi cold at idle, rev up to 2500+ and it went past 100psi.

Not sure why it did that.

[Preyupy]

check it with everything hot.  It will probably drop to 12-15psi at idle and should be >50 @ 3000.  100 psi at 2500 cold is not abnormal.

[felix_666]

Here's a picture of the pigtail I soldered up for an extra ground to back of my instrument panel.  This was then routed to a ground on the firewall under the dash.

Instrument panel ground pigtail.jpg

 

I did this last year (along with cleaning up the other grounds under the hood) and my interior lights and gauges have been rock-solid ever since. No more jumpy temperature gauge and fuel gauge!

 

It's super easy, shouldn't take more than about 45 minutes, start-to-finish, and doesn't necessarily need soldered connections; crimping will suffice.

 

Ed

 

+1 This is a great mod, worked a treat.

Edited October 2, 2014 by felix_666

[nukefrog]

I'll get a decent gauge and check it again but its way over 100 psi (cold) above 2500rpm.

[felix_666]

100 psi when the engine is cold and idling is fine, that alone when you rev it to 2500rpm.

 

Viscosity will vary as a function of temperature. Cold and hot are like chalk and cheese.

 

I wouldn't dream of revving my car to 2500rpm when its cold. When it is cold, at idle, it pegs 150 psi, and doesn't drop until the sticky relief piston does what its supposed to.

 

Your engine sounds fine.

Edited October 2, 2014 by felix_666

[nukefrog]

Thanks. It's odd everyone warms up the car when the owners manual says not too?

 

I've always warmed up my vehicles before driving them (old habits from air cooled VW and Harleys). I was a bit surprised to see that in the manual.

 

"Sounds fine" is relative, I still need to deal with some very poor compression (90psi, 100psi, 95psi, 100psi), oil leaks from the head gasket, the "James Bond" smoke screen I leave with at stop lights, etc....

 

It's all good, I love this little car.

[KFunk]

The ~90 to 100psi compression and smoke screen on acceleration sounds like my engine had been prior to rebuild.  Don't worry, it'll probably still haul ass and be reliable for years to come.  I drove mine like that through several years of autocross, cross-country, etc.  It still ran fine when I tore it down, and the machine shop thought it had 'low mileage.'

[felix_666]

 

 

"Sounds fine" is relative, I still need to deal with some very poor compression (90psi, 100psi, 95psi, 100psi), oil leaks from the head gasket, the "James Bond" smoke screen I leave with at stop lights, etc....

 

 

I was only referring to your oil pressure, I should have written, your engine pressure reads fine.

 

The oil gauge is a good bit of insurance. My engine is new, aside from the actual block and head, and the high pressure oil was an ongoing issue, which I negotiate with a gauge.

 

Good luck.

[ndog]

peeps should mention the ambient air temps when they cold start..

[nukefrog]

Well, new problem. Alt charge

light does not come on when the ignition is on, (pre-starter) and now it won't charge the battery. I checked the blue wires from the alternator and voltage regulator and both have current going to the dash. From the manual it says the charge light acts as an exciter to generate the field for the alternator. I'm guessing its a bad ground behind the dash (I'm in a parking lot so I haven't pulled it apart yet) but I'm open to suggestions.

Edited October 27, 2014 by nukefrog

[Arizona02]

The bulb might be burnt out, if you dont have a new bulb swap it with another one in the instrument panel that you see light up. The bulb grounding path is needed for the regulator to work.

[nukefrog]

The oil light worked so I switched it out, alt light still didn't work but the oil light did so it wasnt the bulb, however now neither light works, it has to be the ground.

[nukefrog]

Okay, made a ground set up like the one in the picture on the  prievous page, still no light. The battery power is really low so I'm recharging the booster and I'll try it again.

 

I may try and pull the blue wire and set up a light to a ground outside of the panel and see if that works.

[Beaner7102]

Have you checked the ground wire on the back of the alt to the block? Also remove the voltage reg, it's grounded by its mounting points. Clean the reg and body where it goes and refit.

That may help with the charging too. Beaner7102