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Timing chain noise, replace tensioner as precaution?

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Recently noticed some noise coming from the timing chain cover area of the engine that wasn't there before. Searched the forum and mostly what I got was people who had the noise after replacing the entire chain. My chain has not been replaced. Noise started on its own.

The car has had the same tensioner since i bought it 2 years ago and have no idea if the PO ever replaced it (no records came with the car).

Would be a good idea to just replace it just as a precaution?

Thanks ahead to everyone.

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If you replace the chain, be shure to replace the guide rail and chain tensioner rail as well. If it is bad enough to make noise you realy should replace the sprockets as they wear also. G

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Guest Anonymous

Agree - you will have to pull the front cover to replace the tensioner, so you can examine all the parts, including the chain, for wear and replace what's worn. Probably worth replacing it all if there is noise, so you don't have to do it again.

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pulling the valve cover:

1. pull up on the chain where it passes over the cam sprocket--if there's a lot of slack, there's wear somewhere.

2. check the ends of the camshaft sprocket teeth; if they're worn to points, you really should replace upper and lower sprockets along with the chain, tensioner and guide rails.

3. You might be asble to get a glimpse of the tensioner--if the rubber's worn off, that's probably the noise you're hearing, and it's replacement time, even if the sprocket and chain aren't worn.

FYI, you can buy a replacement timing chain that has a master link, making it much easier to install than a one piece one.

cheers

mike

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tii timing chain replacement = more labor due to the KF pump mount

Build in lots of time due to possible cover bolts breaking off. The last (3) engines I have taken apart had at least (1) major bolt break off that caused issues removing the lower cover. Watch our for the lower alternator mount bolt. It will snap off at the block.

Does your car have A/C? If so, check the idler pulley first for noise. They are pretty cheap.

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A little bit off top and don't mean to hijack the thread but now that we are talking about timing chains...

How often do M10's jump a tooth on the sprocket? I get a feeling my car did that.

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A little bit off top and don't mean to hijack the thread but now that we are talking about timing chains...

How often do M10's jump a tooth on the sprocket? I get a feeling my car did that.

Easy enough to check. Just pull valve cover, and line up crank pulley mark and notch behind cam sprocket (might take 2 rotations to find cam mark). You should also see the TDC mark on the flywheel in the little window.

If you can't get the crank pulley notch to line up with the pin, the cam pulley notch to be in the center of the head, and the TDC line on the flywheel to all line up at the same time, then you might be in trouble.

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At one time, it was to possible get chains with removable link. Does the OEM one have the link? If so, you can feed new one around without pulling front cover. I did it once years ago.

I'd have a look down the timing chest with a flashlight - I've heard of broken chain guides. look for grooves on drivers side where upper meets lower covers.

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A little bit off top and don't mean to hijack the thread but now that we are talking about timing chains...

How often do M10's jump a tooth on the sprocket? I get a feeling my car did that.

Easy enough to check. Just pull valve cover, and line up crank pulley mark and notch behind cam sprocket (might take 2 rotations to find cam mark). You should also see the TDC mark on the flywheel in the little window.

If you can't get the crank pulley notch to line up with the pin, the cam pulley notch to be in the center of the head, and the TDC line on the flywheel to all line up at the same time, then you might be in trouble.

Thanks man was trying to do that but couldn't clearly see the marks with all honesty I will get a good lamp and check.

Is the M10 known for smashing valves when the chain goes loose?

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02timingchaincutaway.jpg

cam cover off

feel both sides of the timing chain for slackness -

should be tight on the exhaust side and slight

movement on intake side of the cam sprocket

BRIGHT LIGHT - look down at the chain guide rails

NO - this engine timing chaini does not skip teeth

unless it's a junk motor with major issues - normal

wear and use no jumping

the plastic chain guide rails do break sometimes

and that would be cause for a slack chain - or a molested

tensioner could cause the chain to go slack

in any event- DO NOT DRIVE THEIS CAR UNTILL

YOU HAVE DETERMINE THE REASON FOR THE LOOSE CHAIN

because it could lead to bent valves and worse!!!

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At one time, it was to possible get chains with removable link. Does the OEM one have the link? If so, you can feed new one around without pulling front cover. I did it once years ago.

I'd have a look down the timing chest with a flashlight - I've heard of broken chain guides. look for grooves on drivers side where upper meets lower covers.

72tii engine with master link oil pump chain (timing chain also had one)

pics1242010011.jpg

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Thanks everyone. I was planning on opening up the valve cover this morning and front timing cover, but then my transmission started emitting very loud noises and vibrations on the way to work on Tuesday.

So now the car is inop for a bit until I can figure out what the problem is.

God I wish I had a real garage with a lift.

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God I wish I had a real garage with a lift.

I hear you! I'm sick of being under a car on jack stands with my nose pressed against the oily sludge of the engine.

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I have some questions.

1. My 1974 2002 has about 80,000 miles on it per odometer.  I am doing the timing cover gaskets due to oil leak. Would it be a good idea to replace chain and guides and tensioner at this time, just so I know it is done ?  (Car was recently bought and I can only assume the miles are correct). A new camshaft (slightly more aggressive) had been installed before I bought it, but to my knowledge the chain and guide were not done

2. Chain is pretty tight and will not easily come off the cogs, any suggestions?  Can I remove the posts holding the guide in place without the chain being removed? Do I have to remove the camshaft cog to get the chain off?

3. The oil pump chain has looseness, is this normal?  Do I have to replace this also?

Thanks

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