engine and drivetrain New Gal in a 2002

[fuzzynormal]

Hey All,

Female photog from SoCal on the board for the first time...

So, I'm driving a 76 2002 acquired earlier this year. I've always been enamored with these things, and even though I've never had the nerve to purchase an "old" car (this is my first) I'm pretty happy I did.

I feel like I'm DRIVING an actual car for the first time, and it's ridiculously fun. I'm not piloting some SUV boat with wheels.

The car is clean, and runs solid, the only problem I've noticed is that recently it's smoking way too much. When decelerating and then reaccelerating it's getting pretty bad...and I like accelerating and decelerating a lot.

What's up? Bad fuel mix? Something inside the engine with the pistons?

I'm definitely a newb to working on cars, but I'm willing to try. One of the reasons I bought this older car is because I wanted to start messing around with taking care of the mechanics myself.

I've done some simple mechanical work on my motorcycle and found that I enjoyed it, so I want to go deeper into auto repair as well; probably against my better judgement. I know how engines work. At least the basic concepts, but have not gotten my nails dirty on any engine. Yet.

I know that engine smoke is a serious symptom for an old engine and it's getting worn out somehow, but I'm not sure where to start looking. I imagine it's like a Kentucky coal miner's black lung. The dude can still get up and go to work in the morning, but he's not long for this world...

I have a chilton manual that came with the car and it looks very comprehensive, but I know I'll need help just figuring out the basics. I'm able to sink some cash into this little guy, and while I could probably just take it to the local BMW shop and have them fix it up, where's the fun in that?

Not looking to make a hot rod, just to get it running clean.

Anyone experts on here have the time to help!?

[FunkyLaneO]

Engine is probably just tired, decelerating smoke usually means valve seals are worn, smoke on acceleration usually means rings are worn and leaking a little. If the smoke doesn't bother you then don't worry about it for now and check your oil regularly. Evenually having the engine rebuilt will take care of all that. My valve seals leak a little and I just push in the clutch whenever I decelerate (no vacuum = no smoke)

If the smoke on acceleration is only after a deceleration then it may not be leaking around the rings, I would do a compression check or leakdown test and see what the numbers are there, you may be able to cure the smoking by just refreshing the head.

[fuzzynormal]

Thanks for the reply.

Referencing my Chilton manual I think I understand some of what you're talking about, and it makes sense.

The smoke bothers me insomuch that it's bothering anyone that has to drive behind me in the city!

What's a "leak-down" test and how do I do it?

[fuzzynormal]

I would do a compression check

The last compression check (from previous owner) shows 130 psi on all cylinders.

I can't find in the manual if this is normal, abnormal, or whatever.

[AceAndrew]

Hi, welcome to the world of 2002's. Owning a 76 can be a little difficult here in California due to emissions. About a month from now is the SoCalVintageBMW show in Van Nuys, if you're a new owner it's a "don't miss". In addition to your chilton get yourself a copy of the '02 Restoration Guide ( http://www.amazon.com/BMW-02-Restoration-Guide-Brooklyns/dp/1855204517 ). Realoem.com is a good source for blow-up diagrams (it's an older version of the dealer parts system).

As for your problem, what color is the smoke? White, black/blue, as mentioned it sounds like a tired motor.

Couple of ways to proceed if you're in need of a rebuild...

- Let someone handle the whole thing (you're in San Diego, try La Jolla Independent). More expensive, but less down time, less risk

- Learn about the internals and manage the rebuild yourself (handle parts gathering yourself and find a local machine shop familiar with older European cars). Can be more rewarding, but takes much longer, higher risk.

[Anschauer]

It's like the fellow in SD said, more or less normal and watch the oil.

When you get a "new" 2002 be comprehensive and replace all the fluids, meaning the engine and diff lubes, the transmission oil, brake fluid, coolant.

If you want to get into it, have a magnet handy and swish it through the used fluids to see if you have any metal particles. I buy a cheap magnet from Northern tool and it sits on the bottom of my oil pan because the magnetized drain plug isn't that powerful.

Unless the belt(s) and filters (fuel/oil/air) are new - change them.

If you are serious pick up the factory workshop manual, they are available all the time in parts for sale and well worth the money (make sure it's an original in the blue binder) which is what we have at home and yes most of us dont leave home without the Chilton in the trunk (along with some spares like fuses and a spare alternator belt, bulbs and whatnot) and some tools.

Good luck and post a picture of your car.

[JLENHAM]

Welcome!

These will run for a long time while showing smoke (assuming you are burning oil.) My first 2002 needed seals badly enough to foul plugs pretty regularly and required premium fuel to not knock. I ran it for 10 years in that condition, if it started missing, I put in new plugs. My current one burns oil as well, but no plug fouling and runs fine on regular.

I have a line prepared in case I ever get a complaint from other drivers, "would you care to contribute to my engine rebuild fund? You would be doing your part for the environment..."

[Cynical_1]

pics or it didn't happen - especially on this male dominated board... lol

[FunkyLaneO]

130 is a tad low but if it is even across all four cylinders that is good (indicates that your head gasket is sealing like it should and valves are seating well), If this compression test was done properly (warm engine, quality tester, etc..) it indicates that your rings are a little worn so eventually they should probably be replaced. This engine probably has never been rebuilt or else it would likely have the newer style valve seals and those very rarely leak.

You can drive the engine like this for a long time if you want, just monitor the oil an be prepared to replace your spark plugs a little more frequently.

Try pushing the clutch in every time you let off the gas pedal and see if after awhile it stops smoking.

The compression range for a "normal" 2002 M10 is 135-150 so you aren't really all that far off, anything lower and I would start cobbling together parts to do a refresh of the motor.

A leakdown test is where you use a compressor to pressurize the cylinder and then watch how long/well it holds the pressure. Since you have the compression numbers you don't really need to do this test.

[TobyB]

Several things-

are you losing brake fluid? that can leak into the booster, then

gets sucked into the engine. Only takes a tiny bit to make

a big white cloud.

has the car been sitting? I've found that a few months of regular excercise

tends to help things seal up a bit better- valve stem seals, in particular.

This would be a blue cloud...

also, if it's been sitting, or even just from age, the carb can develop a

few faults that will make it run rich, and smoke excessively. This would be

a grey/black cloud.

As to 'sage advice', dig back through this board- lots of things have been

hashed out ad nauseum.

Welcome.

t

[winstonindy]

YESSS! Another girl! Welcome, and agree that this board is a wealth of knowledge. I too am a new 2002 gal owner (1973 model) and am currently picking away at the items that so dearly need attention & repair on my little roundie.

[fuzzynormal]

the carb can develop a

few faults that will make it run rich, and smoke excessively.

This is what I'm experiencing. The smoke is darker, usually. Medium gray on occasion, as when accelerating after engine breaking.

The carbon monoxide and fuel smell is strong. So, rich gas? Maybe a combo of too much fuel and some burning oil?

Thanks!

[ndog]

nice car.. gluck with getting it clean for smog^that is in San Diego,kinda looks like fullerton or parts of burbank ca

[fuzzynormal]

gluck with getting it clean for smog

What do CA owners (of which I'm now one) of these cars typically do to their vehicles in order to get it past the smog check?

[LarryS]

What do CA owners (of which I'm now one) of these cars typically do to their vehicles in order to get it past the smog check?

15 years ago when I lived in Cali, we took it to a shady mechanic, gave him $10 and he would hook the smog machine to his own car. I don't know if you could still do that...