2002ti wannabe project begins

[zinz]

Gotta have a sync tool.  Your PHHs have no vacuum ports to use a Carb-Tune manometer-type, so you gotta use a squirrel cage-type. Somebody near you has to have one you could borrow... When I installed my Solexes I had set the throttle butterflies to as exactly the same as I could make them on the bench.  They ran pretty well once installed, but since my DDHs have vacuum ports, I can use the Carb Tune. That maked syncing them sooooo easy. I've tried the garden hose method of listening in each velocity stack, but I could never sync them very well with that method...the Carb Tune is precise (as precise as a carb can be...)

 

You will find that only very small adjustments are typically necessary...when they are correct, the engine stops shuddering/shaking and the burble becomes much smoother and less ratty. It's a very satisfying noise...

 

If you don't have the squirrel cage tool and feel that you have turned the adjustment screws a bunch and everything is wayyyyy off, then try this trick to get them back to mechanically sync'd.  I take a small wooden dowel maybe 1/4" and about 8" long.  Open your choke butterflies and insert the dowel down the throat of the carb until it touches the top edge of the throttle butterfly and make a mark on the dowel to the leading edge of the velocity stack.  Do this for each butterfly and make adjustments until all of them are opened the same (they should be almost closed at idle.)

 

Hope this helps...

 

Ed

 

Also... spray carb cleaner around the carbs to make sure you don't have a vacuum leak.

 

 

[M3M3]

he has a couple of synch tools he is using....

[zinz]

Gotcha... I should have assumed y'all had it under control. 

 

Carry on...

[M3M3]

Lol....just said tools. ..no pretense of control!

[jgerock]

Updates:

Drove the car up to a local gas station and put 1/2 tank of premium in it.  Car seems to run well except for some minor lean conditions when accelerating (thought I could hear some slight detonation).  Will keep adjusting the timing and may have to increase the idle jet sizes (running 52.5 now).  Using 130 main jets and 155 air correction jets. Ordered more idle and main jets from the same Alfa person on eBay.

 

Pulled the gauge cluster and added a separate ground wire from one of the (2) left cluster securing screws (ones in the middle) over to the dash ground screw.  Now my "L" charge light works, the gas gauge and temperature gauges are acting better.  Still don't have a turn signal (blinker) lamp in the dash but the outside lights work fine.

 

Took my old washer pump apart, cleaned everything and painted the old bracket then installed it on my new round bottle.  Not sure if it works but at least it is on the car. 

 

Ordered a set of Trico classic wiper blades #33-150 from Amazon.  Will see if they arrive before the trip to NC in 3 weeks.  My wiper motor doesn't work so I need to find a replacement.

 

Sanded the inside of the Ronal wheel hubs and did some tweaking to the BMW center cap tabs.  They are on the wheels now but not sure if they will stay in place. 

 

Hoping for better weather so I can drive the car more than just a few miles to break in the engine.

 

 

[LarsAlpina]

Hi Jim,

 

I´ve got a question concerning the carpet: Is there a difference between US and EURO cars concerning the carpet? You´ve written your carpet comes from a 74 tii which means to me the donor car should be one with squared backlights and front plastic grills or do I misunderstand something? FWIK all EURO cars of that latest body type had a one-piece "carpet pan" (OK two-piece, the area right below the backseat was a separate one - but the whole rest was one-piece) and I can´t see it is like that in your car. Why is that?

 

Besides that question: For EURO cars the later the car was built the more and thicker sound-deadening insulation material was added. The tunnel had a special formed insulation piece made from plywood with some foam glued on from the underside. Same material was used on the floor pans and on the firewall. As far as I´ve seen on your photos you didn´t put anything like that in your car, didn´t you? As this insulation material is about 2-3cm thick it will lift up the carpet pieces a bit and that might be right what is missing at your footwell sections in order to reach up to the cardboard panels if your carpet is a multi-piece version for later type cars.

I wouldn´t recommend to use the original plywood/foam pieces except the one for the tunnel because they´re not water-repellent and once water has gotten in there they get soaked with it not being easy to get them dry again while mounted in the car below the carpet which is a f...ing rust trap. For the floor pans and firewall I do always use some more modern insulation foam that is water-repellent. But especially if you want to have the latest one-piece "carpet pan" sit straight and wrinkle-free it is inevitable to add the needed 2-3cm in between the carpet and the floor panels.

 

Best regards, Lars.

[jgerock]

Lars- the carpet set I am using is not an original set from a 74tii. It was custom made for a 74tii owner who removed it and put another custom set in (different color).  I'm wondering if some pieces were cut/damaged during removal and that may be my problem.  I did have to add a piece to the area in front of the shifter since the 74 used a long console.

[jgerock]

Rain kept me off the roads today but I managed to  do some piddling in the garage.  Installed a new relay for the fuel pump that ties into the existing inertia switch. 

On the 2nd removal of the plug from the relay, the entire guts of the relay came out - hence the zip tie holding everything together.  Spare tire courtesy of MLytle who can't use it on his big brake M2.

  

Not finding any 1/2" wide chrome tape at the local auto parts stores, I picked up some 1/4" wide chrome pinstriping from Advance Auto

I peeled the remnants of the old mylar from the upper trim on the driver's side and used sandpaper to try and clean it up before applying (2) strips.

 

Not the greatest but will see how long this stays in place.  

My horn doesn't work so I'm in the middle of trying to figure that issue out.  I have 12V at the # 30 terminal of the relay and also at the output of the relay to the (2) horns.

 

Each time I sit in the car I hate the stock seats, especially compared to the nice Recaros in the tii.  Thinking about different seats. Stay tuned...

[Conserv]

3 hours ago, jgerock said:

 

...Each time I sit in the car I hate the stock seats, especially compared to the nice Recaros in the tii.  Thinking about different seats. Stay tuned...

 

Oh, no, Jim!  I've arrived too late!  I just picked up yesterday the spare front seats for my '73, which allows me to confirm the correct OEM horsehair pad part numbers:

 

PN  52121824775 (backrests, x2)

 

PN  52111824774 (seat cushion, right)

 

PN  52111824773 (seat cushion, left)

 

Below, re-done seats and new pads.  But I will admit that I was never too crazy about '02 seats until the '75-'76 seats were introduced -- and they were probably designed for the e21, introduced in Europe in early '75.

 

Regards,

 

Steve

Edited May 2, 2016 by Conserv

[jgerock]

Steve- your seats look fantastic!  Thanks for adding the pad numbers.  Were they as expensive as a new mattress set?  I bought all the pads for VW seats (front and rear) for less than $250 but nothing fit my 69 seats. Need to sell what I bought.

[Conserv]

4 hours ago, jgerock said:

....Were they as expensive as a new mattress set?...

 

Yes.  The seat overhaul was a new Tempur-Pedic mattress set -- and certainly NOT the "starter" model.  But...frames are powder-coated, fasteners re-plated, and parts still available from BMW, e.g., seat-back release cables, have been replaced.  I have to find the receipt for the horsehair pads; I bought them nearly 2 years ago.  But two of the pads were quite reasonable at the time I bought them.  Two were expensive.  I believe I've since seen that the reasonable ones have gone up dramatically since I purchased them!

 

Best regards,

 

Steve

 

Edited May 2, 2016 by Conserv

[jgerock]

Time for an update (the sun is finally out!).

Since the old wiper motor doesn't work, I decided to pull it and swap the one from the Agave 71.  I tested it using a battery before cleaning it up.  The plastic cover and wiring sheath had lots of green overspray.  I tested it again before putting it into the car.  My wiper bracket was already pre-drilled for both motor patterns (early and late versions) so I bolted it in place after modifying the wiring.

I went by this old Roundel article, but the high and low speeds were backwards.  Note I had switched the two top wires on the car during assembly.

Here is how I wired up the motor to the firewall.  For some reason, the park mechanism doesn't work, so when I turn off the wipers, they stay in the as-swept position.  

At least they now work.

Purchased these wiper arms from Amazon.com.  They fit perfectly.

I purchased a set of shiny arms from another FAQ'r and noticed the passenger side of this set has a bend (just like my tii wiper arms), but the pass. side arm of the old 69 set (brushed aluminum) is straight).

Took the car out for a few miles and noticed the temp. gauge going into the red zone. Back at the house, I jacked up the front, removed the radiator cap and burped the hoses (coolant level was a little low too).  Seems to be better now (thanks for the suggestion Marshal).

I'm still waiting for my extra set of Solex jets to arrive so I can do more tuning.  

 

Edited May 7, 2016 by jgerock

[adawil2002]

Trico 33-150s are also available on amazon, that's where I bought mine.

 

Looking forward to seeing you and the car in person.

[Kidasters]

 

Quote

 

 

This is a great picture of your car Jim.

Edited May 7, 2016 by Kidasters

[jgerock]

Spent a nice Mother's day with my parents.  We had take out BBQ from a place in Gordonsville, VA (yummy).  Back at home this evening, I quickly checked the alignment of the 69 and it has 1/4" toe in.  No wonder why the car seemed to track well on my initial drives.  When I replaced the entire front end, I measured the old tie rods and adjusted the new ones as a starting point.  Will change to 1/8" then correct the steering wheel center.