2002ti wannabe project begins

[ray_]

I think there are many known cans, outside U.S.... :-p

 

I forgot to tighten only one MC fitting on the project car.

 

...But I did forget to tighten the 2 fittings at the a/c drier before charging.... :-/

 

Cheers,

[Chamonix72]

you must be using one of the last known cans of ATE super blue brake fluid....a perfect match for your cars color!!!!

I went to my local Subaru performance shop about the time ATE Blue was pulled from the market. I bought their last two quarts. I didn't need them, but I have them.

[ray_]

I went to my local Subaru performance shop about the time ATE Blue was pulled from the market. I bought their last two quarts. I didn't need them, but I have them.

 

I bet you didn't.

 

I bet you bought their last 2 liters.

 

[Kidasters]

I'll admit it - when they discontinued it, I ordered a case from BavAuto.

[M3M3]

blue is cool looking,  but type 200 is the identical stuff without the blue dye.

[Kidasters]

I know.  The only reason I like it - I alternate between blue and type 200.  It's easier to know when the new fluid has made it to the caliper.  That's it.

[Chamonix72]

I bet you didn't.

I bet you bought their last 2 liters.

I appreciate good pedantry!

[jgerock]

Did more cleaning of the rear carb today then installed new gaskets and some of the new jets.  The existing venturis and jets in this particular set of carbs was exactly what I had purchased new from the Alfa Romeo seller on ebay so I only replaced the gaskets, pump diaphragm and the main jets.

 

There are minor differences in the replacement parts

The rebuild kit does not include the proper sealing washers for the main jets so I reused the old ones. The new accelerator pump diaphragm spring is a little different also.

Here is the rear carb after putting everything back together.  I only wish I had access to a soda blaster to really get the housings looking like new.  After soaking in carb cleaner, I used some ABC corrosion buster with a rag and brass brush.

 

 

[jgerock]

Time for an update!

 

Switched out the brake fluid reservoir thinking the old (new) one was leaking under pressure at the seam.  Turns out my almost new pressure bleeder from BavAuto/Motive leaks at the quick connect cap fitting.  There was nothing wrong with the other reservoir. 

Tip for those of you who struggle fitting the brake hoses to the reservoir and M/C elbows:  Take a bit of new brake fluid and smear it on the plastic fitting - the hose should slip on much easier.  If you don't, then you could risk twisting the fitting right off the reservoir.

 

 

Got both the brakes and clutch bled - but will no doubt have to do them again one more time.

 

With the rear end back down on the ground, I torqued the rear axle nuts (36mm socket) to 150 ft-lbs. with my 1/2" torque wrench then switched to my breaker bar with the jack handle.  New cotter pins installed.

 

Installed a new foam shifter pad from BLUNT and installed the old rubber boot and shift knob (knob courtesy of Jim Hanks).  

Better picture of the console  - not done yet.

Installed a remanufactured SR-440X Bosch starter from BLUNT (weighs only 6 lbs.) but this one didn't include a spade terminal for the solenoid trigger so I modified an old ignition coil terminal to work with my factory wiring harness.

Installed the Bosch remanufactured distributor that I originally bought from Pelican Parts for the tii but the curve wasn't correct.

 Note the small coolant outlet fitting on the 72tii head.

 

Cleaned up the 2nd (front) Solex carburetor and installed it today along with most of the accelerator linkage, the choke parts and the air cleaner (temporarily).   I'm using the stock BMW "crossover bridge" along with the horizontal linkage piece from Lars Alpina in Germany.

The firewall support bracket is an NOS BMW part with delrin bushing.  The part purchased from Lars didn't have the correct hole alignment on my firewall so I decided to use the factory part.  I did have to increase the bore size in the bushing to accept the horizontal rod from Lars' piece.

My next issue is the stock pivot rod that snaps between the horizontal rod and the left carburetor cannot be twisted (it is seized) so I tried using an old one removed from my tii.  It is too long and the linkage rod hits the rear manifold way before WOT so I must do some tweaking.

Next I bolted on the NOS choke bracket and fit my stock 2002 carb'd choke cable but it is either in a bind or just plain stuck.

 

Test fitted the air cleaner and (4) rubber boots but the boots aren't lining up very well.  My Solex carbs do have angled air inlets.  I'm wondering if I must remove the aluminum inlet stubs, slide them onto the rubber boots/air cleaner housing prior to installing in the car.  Anyone remember how the proper sequence goes?

Here are the boots I purchased a few years ago

 

Still to do:

Fill engine with oil

Fill radiator and engine with coolant

Make final connections to electric fuel pump (using inertia activated cut off switch from Pegasus Racing)

Connect nylon fuel line to both carburetors

Paint and attach accelerator linkage to pedal box

Connect linkage to firewall pivot

Test electrics 

Connect brake booster to front intake manifold

Fit correct accelerator linkage rod

Fix choke cable

Install Wideband 02 sensor gauge in console

Start and tune engine

Swap stock 02 wheels for aluminum ones 

Register car with antique plates

Align front end

Tighten suspension pieces while on ground

Bleed brakes and clutch again.

 

By the way, all (4) of my steel wheels are date coded January 1976

 

 

[M3M3]

add

get battery and make battery bracket for under seat...:-)

[adawil2002]

Great update. The Vintage or bust!

[ray_]

You left out "prime the timing chain tensioner."

 

Jim what's the ID of the small hose at the head to heater core? Are both ends the same? 14mm? Project car I think needs 14mm at head and 18 at heater core. If that's what u got, what's the p/n?

 

Cheers,

[jgerock]

You left out "prime the timing chain tensioner."

 

Jim what's the ID of the small hose at the head to heater core? Are both ends the same? 14mm? Project car I think needs 14mm at head and 18 at heater core. If that's what u got, what's the p/n?

 

Cheers,

Ray- I primed the tensioner with oil before installing the upper cover. Hope I don't have to do it again. The small hoses are 15mm versus the later 18mm. I have a larger threaded fitting for the cylinder head if you need one.

[ray_]

Thanks Jim, the fitting really won't budge. I think I'll finagle or find a hose with 15mm dia at one end and 18 at the other. I need to pull the heater box anyway so we'll see what the easiest avenue will be then.

 

New motor is in. Runs well!

 

Cheers,

[MatthewCervi]

Wow, it's really coming along!  I'm looking forward to seeing it again.