2002ti wannabe project begins

[Kidasters]

wow.  pretty.

[ray_]

I'm interested to see how well-oriented the cam is at TDC (see Arminyack's thread). If you get to it this year.

 

:D

[jgerock]

I'm interested to see how well-oriented the cam is at TDC (see Arminyack's thread). If you get to it this year.

 

:D

I did not have to rotate the cam when installing the chain. The links were somehow lined up perfectly.

[ray_]

So, at TDC the notch on your pulley lines up properly, and the cam timing is correct?

 

Is this with a milled head and stock cam gear?

 

Cheers,

[jgerock]

So, at TDC the notch on your pulley lines up properly, and the cam timing is correct?

 

Is this with a milled head and stock cam gear?

 

Cheers,

Yes - pointer lining up with pulley marks, bottom of cam gear has hole for Schrick button. Both lobes of # 1 cylinder down.  

Picture of head with valve positions just before placing on the block

 

I have a timing wheel that I will use to check cam timing before going any further (if I can make it work)...

 

Head was cleaned up while at Korman's place.  New stock cam gear and crank gear.

 

Head and block "came" together.  

 

Early single groove pulley sourced from local 2002 owner Dave R.

[jgerock]

Turned the engine over clockwise to see the cam and rocker operation, adjusted the valve clearance (again), checked the torque on the head bolts, installed the tii exhaust manifold, the two ti intake manifolds and the new e21 coolant branch.  I purchased the reducer hose fitting for the water pump to return pipe but I need a straight one.  Need to order a new timing chain tensioner spring and piston (I have 3 old sets).   Am soaking the tii dipstick parts in Evaporust along with the distributor mount.

 

 

Test fit a set of Solex carbs - think these are my best set so they will get cleaned up and new parts added where required

 

Emailed Blunt regarding E30 318 adjustable alternator mounting bracket hoping to use it with my stock alternator but from the pictures, the 2002 bracket is located behind the alternator tab and the E30 bracket is on the front so if I want to upgrade - I may have to get a different alternator.  The one from the 69 was an older remanufactured Bosch unit but squeaks when I spin it by hand.

[M3M3]

Almost ready to drop in!

[Chamonix72]

Jim, I am not an expert on such matters, but I do have an E30 318i alternator bracket. I believe I had to order an alternator that was also made for the E30 M10-powered models. I am almost positive I ordered a high power, 95 amp unit from Blunt. I can confirm if needed.

[jgerock]

Jim, I am not an expert on such matters, but I do have an E30 318i alternator bracket. I believe I had to order an alternator that was also made for the E30 M10-powered models. I am almost positive I ordered a high power, 95 amp unit from Blunt. I can confirm if needed.

Thanks David. I will see what I can come up with.

[jgerock]

I wrestled with the front seats this weekend.   Started out cleaning the old dried up grease and gunk from the seat rails then reinstalling them back onto the seat bases.  I must have really messed up the pass. seat back when I worked on it since it was really twisted (inner side tilted back more than the outer side).   Out came the seat and I took the hinge off the outer side and reindexed the "torsion" bar what seemed like 5 times before I think it worked out.  What a PITA.   Bought some of these new rubber buffer pieces for the seat base tabs.

When installing the seats, the new carpet made the inner buffer come right off the tab.  I may have to just glue a piece to the flat tab.

Color in picture is a little off- seats are brown, not yellow.

Now I think I know why BMW changed from the early seat rails to the later version.  The front tab hangs down and you must align the bolt hole before inserting the bolt.  Again, new carpet makes the seat rails sit a little higher and I had a hell of a time getting those front bolts installed.  The rear bolt holes are the same as the later cars.

 

Also glued up the rest of the door seals and installed the early type thresholds using a new rubber weatherstrip.  The thicker carpet made installing these simple pieces a chore.

 

I still need to find another black seat slider knob.

 

Reasons for not installing the door panels:

Need to redo the foil on the strips

Change the vertical fuzzy window channel to something that works (better than the stock BMW stuff)

Add the aluminum door topper trim 

 

[jgerock]

There are some things that really bug me when working on an old car.  One is that brand new parts from the original equipment manufacturer (OEM) do not work as well as they should.  For instance, the doors on the 69 have as many new parts as I could find to make them work "better than new".  I purchased new seals, trim pieces, weatherstripping, vent window trim, glass. window regulators, etc.  After installing new glass and the vertical weatherstrip channel the window would not roll up properly.  I had to pull upward with one hand while rotating the hand crank.   The new "fuzzy" vertical C-channel weatherstrip was very tight (I experienced this with my 71 VW but that was using aftermarket pieces). 

 

Thanks to the earlier posting by Mike Wooldridge of Arkansas, I called the same glass shop but they referred me to another place down near the Tidewater, VA area...which referred me to another place, which referred me to a place in Lanham, MD.   After speaking with multiple folks, I ended up ordering some weatherstrip from a place in Canada who would actually ship it to me (rather than having me drive a while to pick it up after they ordered it).  

 

Link to Mike's thread: http://www.bmw2002faq.com/topic/135132-mike-wooldridge-1973-chamonix-2002tii-clone/page-5

 

 

Purchased from Hi-Tech Glazing Supplies in Surrey B.C.

Standard Products # AS1198-96     (the last two digits indicate it comes in 96" lengths).   Searching by ebay does NOT indicate the length.

 

After I pulled the BMW strips out of the car and installed the new aftermarket pieces, the windows now roll up and down like they should.   

BMW part on the right

BMW part (after I removed it) on the left

The 2nd thing I learned was that if you cut and installed the channel too long, it wouldn't let the window roll all the way up.  In my case, about 20" was the correct length.

 

Many thanks to Mike!

[ray_]

See ya at Mid Am!

 

[jgerock]

Did a little bit today.  Got the fuel tank sending unit installed after snapping a good mesh filter on the bottom.

Cleaned and painted the 72tii valve cover.  The one from the 69 engine was nicked up from where someone had pried it off a few times.

Installed the two stock BMW engine mounts using new hardware.  Right one fastened to the subframe - left one on the engine.

 

Waiting on my small parts order from BLUNT containing timing chain tensioner and dipstick parts.  Hope to install the engine in the next few weeks.

 

I really like the way the original brown interior looks with the Riviera paint.

[jgerock]

Installed new tii dipstick tube, connector hose and clamps (parts from BLUNT)

Installed new timing chain tensioner piston, spring and plug, then bled the piston

New piston on the right

New one closer to my palm.  Note the slight difference

Noticed a possible error in the Blue Book regarding the piston length

Soaked the new piston in some fresh 20W-50 Castrol, installed then performed the bleeding procedure

Attached the upper timing cover, new 5-blade fan and the old alternator

Attached the E30 318 M10 alternator mounting bracket and had to do some minor bending to make it work with the 2002 alternator

New lower bolt (pan head with square shank) is too long.  I tried a bumper bolt which will fit but is too short so I'll look for a longer one (about 50mm).

 

My old Bosch remanufactured alternator that came on the 69 engine squeaks and the shaft is sort of stripped so I will need another one.

[ray_]

No a/c pulley?