2002ti wannabe project begins

[jgerock]

Some good progress last weekend...

With assistance from Marshall, we cut off one tab from an old ti linkage and welded it onto my NK linkage

I did have to grind the tab for the choke idle to clear the newly grafted arm but it works quite well.

Installed (again) using my old tii linkage arm

Firewall pivot components

Here is the inertia fuel pump cutoff switch purchased from Pegasus. Still have more wiring to do.

As mentioned above, I was having some electrical gremlins with just battery power.  I swapped the wires at the sending unit so that fixed the signal to the dash gauge.  Marshall assisted me last Saturday and we checked continuity on lots of wires - especially the ones I added for relocating the battery to the cabin.  Turns out the brand new ignition switch was bad (YES - RAY KOKE CALLED IT).  I knew something was wrong last week when I was turning the key from the first to 2nd position - the fuel gauge and oil pressure light were wonky.

Here is the old 69 switch (Bosch brand) next to the brand new one (SWF brand) 

So - now the fuel gauge works, and the lights are good.

The rear lights that were on all the time (with battery power) were the brake lights.  Marshall and I adjusted the switch and now they work as they are supposed to.

Filling the radiator with coolant revealed a minor leak at the water pump x bypass pipe.  I used a 1" diameter heater hose and some wide clamps but there was a drip so I changed the front clamp to a BMW one.  

New AGM battery arrived today from Battery Mart in Winchester, VA.

More after this weekend.

 

 

 

 

[ray_]

Heh. I'm 3 for 92 now ;-) I've never had to replace an ignition switch. Yet.

 

Seems like you could find a plastic grommet for that firewall spring hole.

 

After the update I'm now getting notifications for new posts in your blog. That hasn't happened for quite some time. Guess you better set me back to "ignore" again

 

Cheers,

[M3M3]

IT LIVES!!!!!

 

Jim has been hammering away at all the details to connect all the wires.  i stopped by this afternoon to see how it was going. just in time to see it turn over under starter and get oil pressure. then we put some spark plugs in it, added plug wires, snugged the alternator belt, pressured up the fuel system, and.....

 

turned the key............it started almost immediately!!!!!  WHOOO HOOOO!!!!

 

(pardon the bad cell phone video...started seconds after it caught.)

 

 

Edited April 3, 2016 by mlytle

[ray_]

Well it's about time.

 

Woohoo!

[adawil2002]

Congratulations, that's a huge milestone! Looks like you'll make The Vintage with plenty of time to spare.

[jgerock]

I'm almost speechless.  Think Marshall summed it up with WHOO -HOO.   

 

Backing up a little.  Had to buy some 4 GA flexible cable (from West Marine in Woodbridge) to make the positive starter and engine ground cables.

After buying some 1/8" x 1.125" steel angle from Lowe's yesterday, Marshall let me (try) and operate his mitre saw to cut the battery box pieces, then he welded them.

Painted this morning

Installed under back seat

Covered the center console gauge panel (made by Marshall) with the same grained vinyl I used on the A pillar.

 

AEM analog A/F gauge installed in the left hole - right has predrilled hole for an oil pressure gauge

Distributor is still on TDC for # 1 and the idle mixture screws on the Solex carbs are 1.5 turns out.

Car is running very rich (10 on the WB sensor) and I had a leaking valve cover gasket so I have some tuning to do..

 

Edited April 3, 2016 by jgerock

[Kidasters]

Simply awesome.  Congrats Jim.  Huge milestone.  

[ray_]

Cool. I wonder if advancing the timing will affect the AFR's...

 

Cheers,

[kris]

Very very happy for you!  Sounds great in the vid. Can't wait to see it in person. I'm confident it will be very impressive. 

[zinz]

Jim.. I let you down as far as the linkage parts; I was supposed to send you some and life got in the way...  I'm happy to see that Marshall was able to provide the welding skills and get your linkage sorted out.

 

As for your rich-running... give it more ignition advance. My Solex DDHs gave me rich-running symptoms until I advanced the timing to the Haynes Ti specs... page 67 in the manual shows 28-32 degrees at 2000 rpm. ...depending on your compression ratio, of course.  I have flat tops and ran 32 degrees at 2000 rpm with an IE dizzy, until I installed a 123Ignition.  I programmed about 32 degrees at 2000 rpm in my 123 curve.  It's easy for me to double check with a timing light that I'm where I need to be.  

 

The car looks amazing, by the way.  Beautiful work, indeed.

 

Ed

 

Here's the BMW Ti glovebox manual spec on ignition FWIW.

 

 

Ti ignition specs.pdf

[dasfrogger]

Congrats, This is awesome!

[john02md]

Yee-Haa!  Very exciting.  Next, we need video of the first drive!  Can't wait to see it driving around the DMV.

 

John

[jgerock]

Did a few things today while it snowed and the wind blowed outside.

Roundel installed

ti emblem installed

Put the Ronal wheels on the car and was going to settle the suspension by rolling the car back and forth but the LR wheel was locked.

Called Marshall after remembering I had installed the spacer in the wrong position in the trailing arm.  I must have only corrected the right side.

Pulled  the axle/CV out along with the bearings and found the spacer next to the inner bearing (should be next to the outer bearing).

Will put back together correctly in the morning.

Had a nice visit this morning from Daron.  Good 2002 discussions as always.

[jgerock]

Corrected the LR wheel bearing this morning then decided to roll the car outside (under it's own power).  Fumes from the exhaust coating were pretty strong plus I still had a valve cover leak. Turns out the stupid acorn nuts that were originally on the 72tii engine were bottoming out even with a wave washer so I replaced them with standard hex nuts.  As the car warmed up, I noticed the heater hoses weren't (helps if you turn on the heat) and I had a leak on the brass plug at the manifold junction.   Replaced the brass plug with another old temp. switch for now.  Car still was running way too rich and idling no less than 2,000 rpm so I pulled it back into the garage.  Well at least I know reverse and 1st gear work.

 

Put the front back up on stands, added some coolant (it was low) then tried burping the lower hose with my hand.  Pulled out the Blue book and read my baseline mixture was wrong.  Should have started with 1/2 turn out from bottom on the (4) mixture idle screws.  I started with 1.5 turns.  Also, the linkage was binding at the firewall so I drilled out the delrin bushing for more play.  When I reassembled the firewall bracket, the vertical linkage rod from the pedal box was too high  even though I had tightened the bolt at the pedal box.  I readjusted the pedal linkage and thought that was my issue.

Started the car back up and idle mixture is between 14-15 on the AF gauge but the car will not idle below 2000 rpm.   Checked the timing with my adjustable Craftsman light and was just a little off.  It is currently set at 23 degrees BTDC at 2,100 RPM.  When I tried setting the idle rpm on the carbs based on the Blue book instructions (car not running) there is something not right between the main (front) carb and rear carb linkage.  More investigation required. 

 

Had ordered a VDO oil pressure gauge from eGauges earlier this week but something is not in stock so I'm not sure when I'll get it.

 

The way I wired the A/F gauge, the last reading stays on it when power is removed. Easy way to remember how it was last running.  When power turns back on, the gauge re-sets.

 

 

[adawil2002]

The car looks spectacular in the sun. It will be a real pleasure to see it at The Vintage.