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About MatthewCervi

  • Birthday 03/03/1970

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  1. I discovered I don't have working wipers, so I'm not going to be able to join the caravan. I think I'll meet you all in Asheville with my daily driver.
  2. Fill plug, not the drain plug. I know it was a typo, but just a public service announcement to never remove the drain plug before the fill plug. Otherwise you'll be removing the transmission when you discover the fill plug is seized after you drained all the oil out.
  3. Do you mean the striker on the body? If you loosen all the screws it should move freely in all directions without force (don't remove the screws or you'll be pulling out the rear seat and side panel to fish the backing plate out of the body). And yes, if you move it too far in the door won't latch. You can test the lock with the door open by twisting the latch on the door to the 2nd stop--you should be able to lock the door at that point. Release the latch by pulling up on the door handle before trying to close the door again. Edit: I have a feeling Harold understood what you meant better than I did--I guess the latch and the striker are both C shaped. Anyway, test the lock by moving the latch with the door open to verify operation and later adjust the striker so that the latch gets to the 2nd stop with the door mostly flush to the body.
  4. It seems odd to me that so many cars had their mirrors replaced. I almost never see the trapezoidal mirrors and those are often new replacements of the incorrect flag mirrors. Where did all the trap mirrors go and why did people in the 70's and 80's decide en masse to replace them? Incidentally, flag mirrors were introduced for the E3 in 1/76 (and my 6/71 Bavaria has a flag mirror). If that was done across the line then it would have been after the 76 2002 brochures were printed.
  5. Have you checked the screen on the fuel pickup in the tank?
  6. On the other hand, that says a lot about Hondas. I have a feeling that a modern BMW would have suffered $$$ engine or VANOS damage by this point.
  7. Thank you for filing the bug report on that--it annoys me, too. The vacuum display shouldn't convert to US measurements since the value is useless in the application. It would be nice if they made the whole page less busy while they're at it. And made it so that the application would remember the current settings so you didn't have to be connected to look at them. And made a way of exporting the settings other than screenshots. Etc...
  8. Clogged fuel filter(s) or ignition problems would be the first places I'd look. The tii injection system itself is pretty robust and doesn't tend to fall out of tune.
  9. I would not fill the tank up if you're planning on removing the sender--you'll spill a lot of gas when you pull it out. Like John76 said, just pull it out and rotate it to simulate the different levels of the tank (at a minimum you'll be able to simulate full and empty). Are you certain you have the correct wires hooked up to the sender? The "reverse polarity" results don't make sense because the resistor wire is just a path to ground. It shouldn't matter which way the current flows through the wire.
  10. The green light isn't very exact. I had to add a few degrees of advance to get my car to start (the "right" way would be to turn the distributor a few degrees instead). Regarding frankg's comment, the orientation of the distributor body to the engine is irrelevant as long as the engine is a TDC and the #1 lead is connected to the correct post on the cap (the one the rotor is pointing to).
  11. I'm going to ask a probably stupid question here, but don't parking brakes on rear discs operate as drum brakes inside the disc? Or are you just saying that the parking brake adjusters on modern discs are easier to adjust?
  12. I'm in! I'd be OK with either route, but my experience with I-81 is that it is hard to caravan on because of all the trucks. And like you said, it goes on forever...
  13. It wasn't a problem last year and I'm pretty sure I got there around opening time. I might have gotten lucky though.
  14. Do the threads even go that far down the rod? Also missing a cotter pin on the castle nut holding the outer tie rod to the center link.
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