irdave

http://www.speedhunters.com/2021/06/second-chance-an-m3-powered-bmw-2002/ I'm digging the wheels.

Murph, might want to spin the engine by hand and check the chain tension as you do just to make sure it's not tightening up too much anywhere.

Yeah, I'd go with @uai on this one, a little goes a long way with taking up tension. And as @kbmb02 has pointed out, you really need to rotate the assembly to make sure you're adjusting based on the tight spot, not the loose spot. The good part? It's pretty easy to try, and if it's too tight, pretty easy to take back out. You can cut them out of shim stock- it's just a shim, nothing special.

Follow up... It's an overgrown cart track, about a mile long with 11 turns, all in second and third. It's nice because it's about an hour away and you can take your car out Monday through Friday, just showing up. And for me it's nice because I've done hundreds of laps here on my supermoto bike, so I'm familiar with the track, although it did cause some funny lines- the 2002 doesn't necessarily use the same lines as a 60hp, 250lb bike. First track day in years, first in a 2002. It was a really nice day. And I left my dog in my buddy's truck while I went out- apparently he was barking every time I'd come down the straight in front of the parking area. But the car did just great. Only change I made was to add a bit of damping (single Koni's from GC, run them wide open (max soft) on the street, dialed them to half way, F+R, and it was totally good enough.) Never even looked at the tire pressures, set them at 28psi before I left the house- close enough. Such a nice change to just drive and not worry about trying to optimize anything except the smile on my face. Although it does seem to have a bit of rear brake bias- I'm on Lee's new Rallye kit for the e30m3, and trailing the brake in would cause some rotation- so I either figure out how to work around it (let off and get on the gas 'cause we're about there anyway), change the pads, aftermarket bias adjuster... or use it like a hydraulic brake for the drifters and send it in sideways? Yesterday I just let off and picked up the throttle 'cause it was almost that time anyway. The Firestone Firehawk Indy 500 whatever tire- if they're making it in your size, it's totally legit. Worked great. I'm no pro racer guy, but I was asking a little bit and they did great, usually on 20 minute sessions. They look great after 4 sessions yesterday. And what? You guys take your rack off before going to do a track day?

First track day in the new car! 70 and clear blue skies...

With white underneath it should be really nice.

What are you going to do? Motorsport stripes?!

@jimk and I helped this trans seller to get his tii up and running. I'd be comfortable giving him the money and expecting the transmission. Don't worry about that.

Dude. You have all the cool toys.

Nice! As long as it doesn't pry the lid off your battery?

What? You're saying you forced the car to run on 3 cylinders, rotated which cylinder you forced to not run, and it sounds the same as when all the cylinders have the potential to run, when you have all 4 wires connected? (It's 4a local, I didn't really sleep last night, so maybe someone can clarify this for me?)

Told you there was some stretch! I used Flaming River steering parts to adapt the column to the rack, but yeah, it's pretty cool. The stock e30m3 rack is about 1,000 turns lock to lock. The z4 rack is about 3, maybe 2.5. Way nicer. And it's really not too bad; parallel parking would be tough, but other than that? It's really good. And yeah, the 205/50-16 is big, but I've been on 205/55-15- so it's only a couple mm, but apparently that's enough to make the difference... Vantablack?

That does look pretty close. Forgot to mention, 16x8, ET20, 205/50-15- a little stretch, but not bad. About 2" of flare, but not quite enough- still a little rubbing. E30 subframe, z4 non-M steering rack. Yeah, I know. The z3 1.9 is a touch quicker, but more expensive- and I'd probably want to put the power steering back in. The z4 non-M rack was originally electric assist. When run in manual mode makes for a very tidy, light installation. And my subframe has 2 sets of mounting holes for the rack- one for power assist and the other for manual, so it's really not too bad- you'd just have to really want to turn the wheels if you're not moving... That all black looks so good!

You guys get this far? Think it's drift worthy?

Is that running on all the cylinders?

I've had the cam chain tensioner make a good racket if the oil gets a bit low, too.

Ah! Those could be the elusive 100mm flares @TobyB was saying he used on his car.

The fuck did I just watch? Thanks for sharing.

I started with Chris Isaac, then Crystal Method, then some Cure- because, alphabetical order. And stiffer motor mounts and back to the big, sexy brakes. The stock ones with new pads and rotors are fine, but not nearly as nice as big Wilwood opposers with floating rotors... Even if it does mean 16's.

Just showed my wife part of the video. Her reaction? "Fuck. "Damn, that's hot. "How much are they?"

B A M ! ! And then find flares to fit. And realize that moving the center of the tire that far out might effect the effort required to turn the steering wheel.

My wife, completely out of the blue, referred to someone as a 'hoser' the other day. Totally cracked herself up.

Crazy, just kinda' sounds like a race car...