irdave

This was on s14.net asking about the gearbox- about how close the ratios are... What I thought was interesting was how composed the car looked from the outside. It's a Group A car, so it's all the things- heim / rose joints everywhere, mega dampers from back in the day. Yeah, it wasn't at the limit, during a track day with a bunch of slow guys, but it just looked so composed. Suppose that's part of why IT IS THE MOST WINNINGEST TOURING CAR OF ALL TIME! Sounds ok, too.

Even in a thread about wiring, humor.

That's about to change. As everyone has said, you can do this. And one of the only things I can think to add is one wire at a time, one connector at a time. As a whole, it's a little complicated. One wire at a time? Not that bad. You'll get good at the wiring diagram, you'll get good at the wires... It'll be an education you maybe didn't want, but when it's sorted, it'll be very much more 'your' car. Believe it or not, there's been worse done to 2002s. By a mile. If that can get unfucked, you can unfuck this. One wire at a time. And everyone here will help. Always.

Apparently some Mustangs used similar Recaros back in the day...

I just don't remember if the -A had the extendable leg bolster. Definitely looks like an OE chair, not an aftermarket seat.

Since we're doing renders... @TobyB's favorite car... Edit; Oh shit! Is that from Burning Man?!

Have you seen my car? People go crazy over it. Here's what I've found. When I had my '72 Golf tii, the people that scour BAT would come up and ask how much I paid for it and all the pretty car people would fawn over it. I hate those people. But after I got the car I have now, none of those people would come up to me. Now it's the kids building their own cars, the people that can see beyond a paint job. The people I usually don't mind talking with. I had a rule for a bit that anything I did working on the car had to be done that day, that the car would driveable and on the ground at the end of that day. Kept the projects bite sized and kept me driving my car. Otherwise the scope of the project is just too much. Unless you're Barney, then the whole thing is done in 2 months and then you ship it to Europe for 6 weeks. I've always found the beauty in a thing by its ability to do it's job, not by what it looks like.

Could you imagine showing up somewhere and saying,"Ray said it's ok that I'm here." Maybe ok getting in line for ice cream, but beyond that?

Yeah Ray, that's getting it. John's forum is a bit more tech saavy- I need to remember that. Thanks.

Yeah Ray, totally. I found those guys, and maybe even RC- they have a set at 310 or so. I was also just thinking about the 944? pressure regulator to bump the pressure a touch... Those above list a time of 0.55 at 14v, which is the relevant number. But they don't do that for the ones that are like the s14 injectors... https://www.fiveomotorsport.com/makes/buick/fiveomotorsport-255cc-24lbs-porsche-bmw-original-equipment/ My thought is that I need to buy another set, either stock-ish or just bigger, that are fresh, then I can get mine cleaned- then I have a spare set that's known good. Kinda' freaks me out not having a spare of something...

Some follow up thoughts on tuning... I found some different numbers for flow for the e30m3 injectors, some places listed at 240ish, some 260ish. Which is possibly based on fuel pressure. But realizing that in my situation, with a bunch of used stuff, that number is a tuning tool. My stock injectors always felt like they were putting in too much fuel for any given situation. So I bumped up to 260, then to 255, in the software, and it feels better than it ever has- not to say everyone with this injector should use 255, but just to say that it adjustable. I understand how to determine dead times empirically, but if anyone has Bosch data for the 0 280 150 201 injector, I'd love the numbers- just to see how far off I am. Thanks again.

Strut tops moved back to have the proper 10 degrees of castor. Engine is further back and lower than typical s14 swap, using E30 subframe... Stock s14 air oil separator typically runs into the airbox. I had put a little filter on the end of the hose and capped everything else off. Made a huge oily mess all over the side of the engine. So I ran a hose from there around the side of the engine bay, used the power steering reservoir because I had it laying around. Works perfect now. My car has been mad at me for a while. Coil on plug really is a tidy solution.

Need to re crinkle the valve cover. There's a lot of things I told the car I'd do if it ran right. It's running right, I've got some stuff to do!

Alright, here's where I'm at. The dizzy made no difference. I'm thinking that the COP took some slop out of the system, as well as cleaning up everything else- like the vacuum leaks, that the problem became more prevalent. So I put the COP stuff back on- it's nicer to look at anyway, I think. As Jim mentioned above, we'd been talking about reinstalling the stock injectors. So I did that this morning. Old injectors and original offsets / dead times that we came up with to get my car started. Hit the key and it immediately idled smoother at 800 rpm than it ever did at 1100 with the FIC injectors. Gob smacked is appropriate. Took it for a drive and the VE table was demanding lots of attention, which is kind of wrong for tuning by VE- that change shouldn't have required almost any change at all. So that led me to thinking about that offset / dead time. I did some digging on the webs and found some numbers for a Bosch injector that was close. Loaded those up and while the table is still off a little bit, I was able to drive the car for 50 miles without bothering to tune it at all. This is the smoothest my car has run in the 2 years I've had it. Thank you all for the help and support. From here, I need to try and find the exact numbers for the stock s14 injectors to get those in the software. I'm interested to see how it affects the VE table. What I think the problem was based on what fixed it- I think the FIC injectors were operating beyond their capability, albeit on the low side. They have an advertised stable pulse width of 0.6ms, but it appears that something was causing that to not be the case. The dead time / offsets for those injectors were included in the box- they could be suspect as well. Maybe their testing device and my use device aren't calibrated the same. (Haltech is made in Australia, so who know? ) But it appears to be something between the injectors and their specs. Gods, what an education I wasn't looking for. I'll be riding my mountain bike tomorrow. After that, I'll look into tidying up that TPS ground, getting the VE table dialed, and for enquiring minds, I'll pull some more data. Again, thank you all. Really.

Picture of the engine bay! Ha! Need some new porn? I'll get one for you. Injector timing may be off. This is one of the things one of the guys from Haltech brought up and is something I actually changed- good thinking.

I've seen you bring this up before and it stays in the back of my head. I haven't replaced the wiring running to the pump yet, although the car didn't originally have an electric fuel pump, did it? A '76? But it has been something I've been wanting to do- run a bigger wire. I will. The pump is a 5 series, 6 cylinder pump, so here's to hoping it's big enough! I'm not as cool as Jim to have a fuel pressure tap for the ECU to read...

The s14 uses no trigger wheel. I'm using a 60-2. The trigger tooth count I believe is just reporting the tooth count based on whatever the sampling rate is- at the time sampled. I would imaging that if I turned the sampling rate up high enough we would be able to see it cycle through smoothly. I've heard that the 5v sensor fault could be software related and that an update might resolve the issue. All everything is turned off, so correct, no acceleration enrichment. I, too, thought the derivative TPS was out of whack. I'll make sure it's above this rate. VW 1.8T coils, full logic on coil, no external driver. Thank you for your help. Seriously.

This was regarding the timing of the squirt of the fuel in the fuel injection cycle, not ignition timing...

More later, but injectors and injector dead time / offset. I put the stock injectors in this morning and made up some number for offset. My car has never run smoother. I have to feed the wife NOW. Thank you!!!!

Not yet. Suppose I should.

There's a little correction based on coolant temp still- but I like the idea. I'll turn it off in the morning so it'll just be the VE map and that's it- so I guess kinda' like @ray_ is thinking- at that point it would only be open loop, and if the actual AFR is different from the target AFR I'm changing the VE table to make it match by hand, instead of allowing the ECU to correct itself. That little bit of coolant correction is the only correction still active, everything else is turned off, including transient (acceleration) functions and all auto-corrections. It's just what it is. I've thought that throwing a little fuel was helping, now I'm not so sure. But yeah, if that's all it takes, I'm in. Hell, as a joke, I think one time I set the entire table to 12.2:1. All of it. But at that time I still had massive vacuum leaks, who knows what was going on. If I do get it sorted, it should run pretty good. Just looked, at the 50-60*F that it's starting at, it's adding 10-15% until coolant temp = 86*F, then zero. Probably at 86 pretty quick. But I'll turn it off in the morning. For sure much better test. Oh, and for shits and giggles today- just to make sure I'm not chasing my tail- quick compression test showed 200 +/- 5, up here at altitude, so maybe that parts not too broken. Thanks again to all y'all for thinking about this with me; I was getting pretty bummed out.

Ok, CSV file for sure. I'll try to get a link to the haltech data viewer software as well, should be able to get a link to the tuning software, too, so you can look at the tune. If not, I'll see if I can zip it and send it to you. Spoke today with another guy at haltech. He suggested changing my injector firing timing BTDC- he suggested simplifying the table (rpm only) and making the timing advance as the revs went up- made sense to me. The table I had had more complexity and would retard the timing at about 4k- my guess at about torque peak. It was also most advanced at lower rpms, then would retard a little as it went up. So now I start at 375 at 0 rpm, 450 at 9k (whatever), with linear regression across. This seems a little better. Also, turned the idle screw out a bit to bump the idle to about 1100. This helps hide the problem. Had Jim's carb tune set up (vacuum ish tubes) a couple weeks ago. Went through the procedure to adjust and balance the throttles. Onboard MAP sensor plumbed directly to where the fuel pressure regulator is. Also, guy suggested turning off all the tuning / self learning for now, as well as most / all of the corrections- just the fuel table and tune it by hand. Which I did for a bit today driving around in the sticks. I have to say, while the stumble is still there, it feels better not correcting everything itself all the time. Throttle response feels better, too, even without any transient functions being active. Also, I've completely removed the ICV and blocked off the openings- it just wasn't being consistent enough to solve problems. Still left the inlet with a little filter so it can pass air to the air bleed screw so I can adjust the idle- just no ICV. The dizzy didn't make it any better, so I reinstalled the COP set up. The stumble seems to not be so bad the first couple of minutes of driving, then gets worse when it gets warm. The stumble is available at idle, just sitting there, as well as it noticeable at most any constant throttle setting. Transient response, even with that function turned off, is not bad at all- this is not a transient result- at least I can't see how it could be. Attached log is constant throttle for some seconds, then a bump in revs, then more constant throttle. Stumble was noticeable at both constant throttle positions. 5oct21-stumble.csv

@flagoworld So, the key would then turn the car off, but it wouldn't allow for the battery to charge, so it was running just on the battery. (Light didn't come on.) Think that means I had the diode going to wrong way?

Actually did this today. Totally fixed the problem. Didn't fix the host of other problems, but now the car turns off with the key. Thanks again.