xr4tic

On 1/6/2022 at 11:25 PM, Dirty32 said:

Have you experienced any issues with the RHD LW flywheel?

Did you have any troubles with bolts or any ancillaries not quite working when you installed?

I haven't driven the car much, it's still a work in progress, so I don't have any driving impressions other than it worked just fine when I drove it around the block a couple times this year.

I had to get new flywheel to crank bolts, the original ones were either too short or too long (it's been a while) and I think the bolts are different depending on which flywheel you currently have (215 vs 228)  I think I just got some ARP bolts, but again, it's been a while.

Nice, how much does one box weigh?

Do you know what the turbo specs are?

What compression ratio are you running and what is your boost target?

Looks good, although I think the sway bar is in upside down.  It should drop down in the front to clear the engine.

I'm interested to see how the Chase Bays master cylinder works out.  I looked at them a while back, but my concern was the pedal ratio isn't changed, so you might not get enough force to operate the brakes, unless you have He-Man legs.

This one solves that problem:

https://www.bmw2002faq.com/forums/topic/183796-new-boosterless-brakes-now-fully-adjustable/

2 hours ago, johnny02 said:

Where/what is Andrews Autosports? Curious about what this brake kit might be but I can’t find them on Google. Thanks! 

Whoops, it's Adams Autosport - https://adamsautosport.com/

Member AceAndrew on this board, here's a post with some more info:  https://www.bmw2002faq.com/forums/topic/147933-cunifer-brake-hardline-kit-for-your-2002-1969-1976/

When you say "off throttle" do you mean completely off throttle?

If so, it's possible you're actually too rich or you have an ignition problem.  If you're dumping fuel in and it doesn't ignite, then it's not consuming the oxygen, so you can show lean no matter how much fuel you're putting in.

Usually it's normal to not use fuel on decel for emissions/mpg purposes (unless you have a turbo, but that's another story)

If you stomp on it, accelerate, and then let off, and throw in the clutch, does it stumble and stall, or settle back to idle (clutch still pressed in)

Are you injecting fuel on decel, and if so, why?

4 hours ago, Henning said:

Sure this changes the direction of air flow?

Yes, that's the point.  Most electric fans are sold as a puller - mounted behind the radiator and pull air through the radiator.

If you mount it on the front of the radiator, it will still pull, so you have to flip the blades to make it push the air through.

If you buy a fan that is configured to push, you won't have to do anything.

it's a mount for a fuel return regulator/check valve that was used on later year 02s (mine is a 76)

2 hours ago, Henning said:

Flipping the blades?

Why not changing the rotation of the fan?

Henning

 

I could have just reversed the polarity and spun it backwards, but it's easy to flip the fan and it keeps the wire colors correct (black is still ground instead of being power)

1 hour ago, Henning said:

Any certain reason why you use a tii oil filter socket?

 

Henning

 

Do you mean where the oil filter screws on?  It's the one that came with my engine, guessing they're the same 

The alternator bracket was cleaned and sandblasted (quickly).  I was going to paint it black, but then I saw someone else post a picture with the brackets gold zinc plated and it looked fantastic, so I'm going to see if I can get that done.

It's a brand new IE header, it's on their special page, significantly cheaper than the uncoated mild steel shorty header - http://www.iemotorsport.com/bmw/item/02shortstainless.html

I just have it bolted on with two nuts to test for fitment.  It looks like I have to clearance the bottom of the flange because there is a slight step where the head meets the block (block sticks out) and the flange barely hits it.  Should be quick work with my bench grinder to make it fit.

That is a fantastic review lol.

My craftsman cordless impact struggles at times, I may have to treat myself to one of these.

I had a similar experience with a spare engine I bought to do a quick refresh on, turns out it had been "rebuilt"

The cylinders were bored too big, one of the rods was backwards, the rod nuts were on upside down, it had the wrong pistons for the head (domed e12 with an e21 head), and there was a big nick on one of the rod journals that put a groove in the rod bearing.

If you buy new rods, seriously consider getting longer rods, which of course requires new pistons.

Let the scope creep begin!

Very nice, who did the dash work?

10 hours ago, heinemann said:

I didn't know the blend valve could be opened up. Mine is stuck. I may have to see if its full of gunk too. I dig the match porting of the carb to the intake plenum. Nice work.

There are two types, mine is the later type with the plastic valve inside.  There is a good rebuild article here:

I cleaned up the housing and top by soaking it in a 50/50 mix of white vinegar/water mix, just be careful if you have put any of the steel components in the mix, the vinegar will eat them up.

Looks good, cleaned up nicely.

I like to polish the raised lines on the valve cover and then spray it with clear, helps break up the monotony of black

Nice to see it coming along.

You can get a tune to remove the MAFs if you want, I've been running my M5 that way for a while now.

Looks good, how far past the lower valence do they stick out?

I have the same setup, but my muffler section is older, and I don't think they stick out that far, but I want them to.

Better to ask these questions in the forum rather than the blogs.

When viewing the PDF, open it in Adobe, not a web page.  Adobe will display the legend as a bookmark and identify all the components.

What coil do you have?  One wire from the ignition is a resistor wire and will have reduced voltage.  The other wire comes from the starter and is only hot during cranking, giving the coil full voltage to help start.

If the coil was replaced with one that doesn't need the resistor, then they may have cut the wiring up to just have +12V from the ignition.

Blog isn't the best place to ask for help, try the discussion forum.

First off, check the fuses.  If they're good, check for voltage at the relay terminals.  If you suspect a bad relay, you can jump the terminals with a piece of wire.

Wiring diagrams can be found here:  http://www.2002tii.org/kb/246

Wrong ignition timing can cause dieseling.

As for vacuum leaks, I like to spray starting fluid around suspect areas, if the idle changes, you've found the leak.  Just keep in mind it's highly flammable, so careful where you spray it.

Thanks, it previously had a hose running from the intake manifold to that engine port, but if it's not needed, I'll cap them off.

Realoem shows a plug for the block, should work on the manifold too - PN 11111254189

I may have to look into the E21 bumper then, although I would probably cut it up like this to make it skinnier.

It would probably look nicer if the bumper was the same thickness all across the front, unlike the stock bumper that's real shallow at the nose compared to the ends.

It wasn't hard, but time consuming.  I used a 4 1/2" cutoff wheel (Milwaukee angle grinder)  The bumper is thick aluminum so I did it with shallow cuts.  Take it slow and steady for the first few passes to get the outline, then the following cuts won't wander.

The hardest part was the curve at the ends, it's a tight radius, especially with a new disc.  I focused on the straight parts until the disc got small, then hit that curve.  It might be cleaner to make some relief cuts first.

I should have cleaned the edge up with a sander but didn't because I wanted to get it on the car to see how it looked, then I never took it off again.