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About benzintinte

  • Birthday 09/07/1993

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  1. Though I don't own this car anymore, to respond to the above, there are a few other 2002s running around with this booster delete kit and the Wilwood big brake kit. Of the two I know of, neither have modified the linkage in any way, and neither reported any issues or difficulty with the brakes beyond a firmer pedal. This is likely all to taste, I don't mind a tough pedal as long as the car still stops well when I ask it to. The bigger concern with this kit, and something that was frequently brought up in other threads, is the single circuit master. I think had I continued on this project, I would have ditched this for a completely different pedal box and master setup. For both safety, and packaging's sake, I think that would have been a better call.
  2. Thanks Mike, I was really dreading selling the car. It's introduced me to such a great community and was really a dream come true to purchase in the first place. I actually still question whether it was really the right call frequently. But ultimately I think it'll be for the best. I've seen a few others working towards an M20 with ITBs, so I hope that someone will have one running soon. In my opinion, that'll be one of the best driving experiences you can have in these cars.
  3. Sometimes you have to let a project go. Since I bought this car, I've sworn up and down I would never sell it. From the best test drive I've ever had in the car, to the highs and (frequent) lows of the build, I insisted that this car would stay in the stable for as long as it possibly could. As it turns out, that wasn't as long as I had hoped. Back tracking a little, for those of you who have read the previous posts, my 2002 got stuck in fabrication for much longer than intended. When it came back, a lot of the work I had hoped to get knocked out was not done and I wasn't really sure how to proceed next. I made some half hearted attempts to make progress, but truth be told after not seeing the car for 8 months I really felt demotivated. More importantly, I found that I had no time for this car. It sat for months on end primarily because I had no time to get anything meaningful done on it. Around Thanksgiving it was becoming pretty obvious, I simply was in way over my head. From there it was just a matter of convincing myself that parting ways was the right call for me. A couple weeks ago, I listed the car for sale. If I'm honest, I was half hoping no one would reach out about the car and eventually another alternative would present itself. But after fielding plenty of phone calls, some tire kickers and low ballers, the right buyers showed up. It's a little bittersweet letting a car go in this condition. It's a blank canvas, and while I had a clear vision for it, I know that it's up to the new team to execute the car how they want. However they have promised me that the car is in excellent hands, and to keep me updated of the progress. Already I've been sent photos of the engine bay completely stripped out, and it sitting in it's new home. I've offered them to keep this build thread updated to preserve the history of this specific chassis. Though it's not mine anymore, I'm always happy to contribute to keep information on this car in tact. For now, I have no 2002s. Though I'm sure I will in the future, for now I need a long break from big projects. To everyone on this forum that sold me parts, gave me help and suggestions, a massive thank you. I often told my friends that the best part of owning a 2002 isn't the car, but the community. That's what I'll miss the most. The Roundie in its new home.
  4. Bump. A few notes from questions I get: I do have all the parts like trim, lights, grilles, etc. They are in boxes, and do come with the cars. You will need to purchase an ECU Master EMU Classic if you decide to continue with this M20 and setup. The harness was rehired entirely to accept the EMU Classic, however I never got to the point of purchasing one. There are some fabrication projects left on the car. Depending on how much you want to restore/run the car as is, varies what you need to do to get back on the road. The photos with the red carpet of the interior are old. I have brand new black carpet in box for the car, but the carpeting was all ripped out. The engine and trans are out of the car. Shipping is possible, but I don’t know how it will work with the engine and trans separate. Hope this helps potential buyers out.
  5. Selling my 1973 BMW 2002. This is very much a project car, and to give you all the details it’s probably best you message me to arrange a call. Clean and open title, heavily modified chassis. I purchased this car over a year ago, already with an M20 swap. I decided last year to redo the swap to improve on some areas and make it my own. However my situation has changed, and unfortunately it’s time to be realistic and part ways with the project. Last year I had the rear shock towers professionally repaired. New sheet metal grafted in, and painted. I then had the front tubular structure created to reinforce the front end and make room for the M20 swap. The hood and radiator are integrated into this piece. The front subframe has also been reinforced. The transmission brace mounts were also revised and reinforced into the floor. Finally the clutch fluid reservoir was revised to accept a Wilwood bottle.The transmission tunnel was heavily modified by the previous owner to fit the Getrag G260 from the donor car. The radiator is a custom unit, a modified corvette radiator, with inlet/outlets welded on to accept BMW hose diameters. This was done in effort to delete the coolant tank for a cleaner engine bay. The M20 and transmission are out of a 1988 325i. The previous owner did the timing belt and refreshed a number of items during the first swap. Suspension includes all brand new polyurethane bushings from Ireland Engineering, CAtuned coilovers (with true rear), new tie rods, ball joints and wheel bearings. Ireland Engineering sway bars (with front drop brackets to clear swap, bars powder coated black). There is also a rear strut brace that includes battery tray. The rear end has an E21 limited slip differential with modified hubs to accept stock 2002 axles, which will be included at asking price. Stock diff also available. Please note: the 2002 will not come with the BBS wheels pictured. I will source rollers, however those have been sold separately already. Interior pieces will include Recaro seats from a Mk2 GLI (on adapter rails to bolt to the stock seat mounting points), E24 rear seats, and brand new black carpeting. Ireland Engineering floor mounted billet gas pedal also installed. Kooglewerks front air dam was color matched and installed by previous owner as well. Engine wiring harness was modified to accept an ECU Master EMU Classic. My original intention was to run ITBs on this car. This was reloomed and heat shielded with provisions to run ECU Master widebands and so on. The rear tail lights are modified with Blunttech LED inserts as well. It also comes with the slimmer European front turn signals. Includes a number of parts in boxes, stock or otherwise. This includes gaskets, bearings, brakes, hardware, lighting, etc. Items like grills, headlights, tail lights, trim etc. are all included with the car, just packed in boxes. Any photos of the complete are are prior to disassembly. The chassis does have some visible remaining rust. Notably around the pedal box, around some windows, front apron (can be covered by air dam) and the rockers. While not extensive, the car certainly could stand for some repairs and paint. Structurally the car is solid, as noted I had the rear shock towers professionally repaired. This is very much a project and is being sold as is. I really didn’t want to sell this mid-build, but my priorities have changed and this must go. This is an excellent foundation to build your dream Roundie on. I am asking $5000 for the whole project. I am unwilling to part out pieces at this time. I am open to reasonable offers +/- some parts. No trades, please message me so we can arrange a time talk. Craigslist ad also listed below for additional contact details. https://phoenix.craigslist.org/evl/cto/d/gilbert-1973-bmw-m20-swapped-project/7059631418.html
  6. Selling my Volvo 240/VW Mk4 brake conversion. Going to Wilwoods so I’ve no use for this. Test fit only, no miles on them. Read below for details. Volvo 240 front calipers, modified by Ireland Engineering, brand new seals inside and out, powder coated BMW Silver. Includes Bosch pads. Requires shimming to fit front rotor. Pairs with E21 rotors. Requires E21 front hubs, can include my hubs for extra. VW Mk4 Jetta rear calipers (aluminum and lighter than mk2 units), rebuilt with new seals and brand new brackets and sliding pins. Shaved fins to help with odd wheel clearances). All powder coated BMW silver. Includes Bosch pads. Mounts to Classic Daily Driver rear disc conversion brackets (included with this sale, and my brackets are powder coated black). Uses Mk1 front discs. Requires rear hubs to be machined down. Can include my modified hubs for extra. Again, only test fit on my 2002. I’m going to the Wilwood setup for some packaging advantages so these have to go. I’ve fully restored these brakes and it’s mostly ready to go. This is a mostly bolt on kit. Please message me for details. Open to offers, will ship.
  7. Finally got back to it with the 2002. Life is not allowing for frequent garage time, so dialing in expectations with this car has been a priority for me. Right now, I'm just focusing on what I know I can get done. Long term plans remain the same, but short term accomplishments will keep me motivated on this project. Before sending the car off to fabrication I purchased the Chase Bays booster delete kit. I know there are a lot of strong opinions on this, but this is the direction I'm going. For anyone else interested in running something similar, bare in mind it requires some modification. As shown above, the input rod into the master cylinder interferes with the pedal arm. It has to be cut back fairly significantly to clear. I ended up cutting off a little more than actually indicated by the paint marker line. But gives you a rough idea of the modification necessary. Likewise the supplied hardware to mount the booster delete was too long, so that was trimmed. I was finally able to mock up the new setup for the first time. Something that other's who have done this stressed is you have to have the bias adjustment valve to make this work properly. Chase Bays advertises that it mounts to the master cylinder well, but in the 2002 chassis it places it in a very awkward spot to actually fit hard lines. So I'll be figuring out a way to mount it to the fender sheet metal. But finally gives you an idea of how that will look. Next step, pull everything out of the engine bay.
  8. I don't have a lot of new info to share quite yet, this weekend was busy. But the 2002 came back home. It's... about 80% done with the fabrication work I wanted done. However due to other more pressing projects, my 2002 was sent back home. It's all good, the last few items I can do myself, a perfect excuse to finally buy a welder and teach myself how to melt some metal. More photos to come, but I was excited to finally have the car back in my hands. I still need to bring the engine and transmission home, as it is sitting on the shop floor. But it's all encouraging. Expect more information soon, I'm hoping to put in a few evenings of work cleaning up the car and organizing my work space to really tear this car down to an absolute bare shell. Anyone have any advice building a cart to put the bare body on?
  9. Ever reach a point in your build where you start to wonder if it's ever going back together? This was that point for me. Totally necessary step, but kind of daunting all the same. Last weekend we pulled out the M20. We tried once before out the top of the car, and that proved to be literally impossible. The M20+G260 combo is simply too long to come out the top of the car. So we dropped it out the bottom with the subframe. Per usual, I just didn't take many photos. I was too busy scrambling around the car to document the sketchiness. But I can tell you, we may have gotten a little dangerous with how we did this. Step one, unbolt the subframe while connected to engine hoist. Step two, lower the engine and front subframe onto dolly and remove chain. Step three, attach chain to new front crash bar. Step four, lift the whole body up and slide engine out. The whole process took maybe an hour, and lifting the body by the new crash bar was a little nerve wracking. But, it worked flawlessly. Next time I do this, I'd really prefer to have a lift though. Now my fabricator can finish up some small details in the bay, and clean up a few cuts. We're also potentially looking at redoing the trans tunnel, depending on what we find as we grind away at the unsealed metal. Hopefully nothing cancerous underneath. I'll probably take the opportunity to clean up a few things on this M20 while it's out. I'd like to get the pulleys powdercoated, and probably replace a few seals/belts that are easy to get to while it's out. I also want to figure out a way to make the alternator nicer to look at. I'm debating buying another one, removing the casing and having that powdercoated black. It doesn't need to be polished perfection, but the dull stock one will really ruin an otherwise nice bay. Despite all the worry about actually ever finishing, it feels so good to work on this car. If you've seen my other build thread, I've only been wrenching on a Miata lately, and I don't particularly enjoy that. The 2002 is so simple, it makes the whole process very enjoyable. With any luck, we're in the final stretch with the fabricator and I can bring it home to finish the fun stuff.
  10. benzintinte


    "The BMW 2002 US VIN 2592852 was manufactured on June 29th, 1973 and delivered on July 04th, 1973 to the BMW importer Hoffman Motors Corp. in New York City. The original colour was Sahara, paint code 006." Car is now M20 swapped (1988 325i Engine/Trans), with substantial chassis modifications. I purchased this car in Stockton, CA and brought it to Phoenix, AZ In April 2018. History prior to that is unknown, though I believe it sat in a field somewhere in the NorCal area for 10+ years before being purchased by the person I bought it from.
  11. Absolutely, and it was a point of consideration for me. Ultimately this won out, as I figure it was better than the previous setup and still let me reasonably service this car in the future. My plan, at least for now, is to keep this car for a very long time. So I’m trying to make things easier on future me haha. I think in the future, if I were to want to track this car or something, I would revisit this and weld it in. But for now, I’m good with the trade off.
  12. With all the Miata updates on my Instagram page, it’d be fair to think I forgot about my 2002. I haven’t given up on this car, it’s just been slow going. My friend, and fabricator for this leg of the project, got injured at work and was out of commission for a few weeks. So priority was low on this project for a while. However he’s knocked out some stunning work so far. Front end out of the car The biggest thing he’s been working on is this new front end support. I know it's a point of contention regarding cutting the nose for an M20 swap. It's a structural portion of the chassis, so something else needs to go in it's place. The previous owner had cut the structure out, however didn’t put any new reinforcement in. It seems like most swaps just put in a single bar across the top and call it a day. But I didn't want to go with something simple. In place My biggest request was to have the support be bolt in. The logic being that having it be removable will make future engine service be easier. By removing the whole support, it clears up a lot of room to pull an engine out. Realistically, I know the engine will be out a few more times over the course of this car’s life, so it’s best to plan for that sort of thing. Center Tie-Ins Another thing we discussed was adding the frame rail tie-ins. The stock sheet metal did run down to the frame rails and although you really only need to brace the towers together, it felt like a missed opportunity not putting the center supports in as well. This width allows for the radiator to sit in between as well. This gives the whole front end a great deal more strength. He also took the opportunity to make a new bracket for my clutch reservoir bottle. I’m moving to this Wilwood unit, but the mounting hardware was just a hair too big for the stock bracket. He made a new bracket that mounts in the same place, and even has the same weld patterns. Once painted you’d hardly know it wasn’t the stock mounting location. He also removed one of the rear brackets on the firewall. This held some useless relays that were no longer used on the car. They interfered with the rear most trumpet on my ITB setup, he chopped it off. This week the trans mounts are getting addressed and I think the engine is finally coming out. The hood will be brought to him to work on the latch supports, and some other bits will be shaved/reinforced. Once this is all taken care of, it’s back to my house for some other improvements before I send it off to get the bay painted. Whether or not the rest of the car gets painted yet, that’s TBD. It will eventually, but life priorities>dream car sometimes. I don’t like it either but a clean bay and ratty car is better than nothing at all!
  13. It seems like every project meets some sort of random parts wall at some point. That is to say, you end up waiting for ages for parts to arrive, things are difficult to source, or you end up with the wrong parts entirely. That has been the case for the last few weeks for me. I’ll try to tackle things in order and get everyone up to speed. So you may remember last year I bought a beefier version of the radiator I currently had in the car. This was in an effort to keep the poor 2002 a little cooler in the hot summer months. However once we started going down the rabbit hole of shaved bay, and systems deletes, that radiator became non-viable. I also purchased a Radium Expansion Tank, that is likewise useless. The part itself is great, but for my purposes needlessly complicated. Purchased, assembled and immediate regret. Not using this wonderful piece anymore. The solution? Capped radiator. Since I am deleting the heater, the expansion tank loop becomes a bit redundant. Some measuring and scrolling through Summit later, and I found this unit. I couldn’t tell you what car it normally lives on, but I can tell you it fits perfectly between the frame rails of a 2002. I also ordered an M20 header flange, because we decided to make a header from scratch. Off the shelf options for M20s simply don’t clear the 2002 steering linkage. Problem one, no one in the US seems to still make this flange. Problem two, after finding an international company who makes a flange, it took ages to arrive from Bulgaria. Problem three, it was warped to hell. I don’t want to put the company on blast, but it is frustrating to wait all that time for a fairly ruined piece. On a more positive note, my wiring harness came back from modifications. At it’s core, it’s mostly my stock E30 wiring harness, however it’s been freshened up, reloomed, and most importantly modified for my standalone. I’ll be running an ECUmasters EMU Classic, and the plugs have been swapped out to accommodate ECUmasters sensors and ECU. I also had a few areas extended to help with the tucking plans. Now onto the physical car itself. My fabricator has been working on the radiator support. Now that he has the right radiator in, he cut a pretty sizable chunk out of the bottom of the nose to sink the radiator into the chassis. He also finished cutting the shock towers flush and welding the seams. You may notice a bar peaking in the edge of those photos. Progress has started on the radiator support. This will put some sort of structural piece back into the nose. For my car, this will double as the radiator mount, hood mount, oil cooler mount and so on. Additionally, and perhaps needlessly complicating things, it will be removable. I will be able to unbolt this bar from the car if necessary. The fabricator bent it to fit the nose of my car, and cut out some end plates to start the process of fitting it. Hopefully within the next week or two the radiator support will be all welded up and ready to go. We’ll be adding ducting, and some vanity panels to help hide this all as well. I’m also now looking into just painting the whole car. I realize this is another jump in project scale, but it’s going to be so close to being perfect for me after this stage, that paint would just be the icing on the cake. I’ll have to figure out how that will work exactly, but it’s something I really want to finally tackle.
  14. Messaging you on this. Thanks!
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