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About benzintinte

  • Birthday 09/07/1993

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  • Gender Male
  • Location Phoenix, AZ

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  1. benzintinte

    I Hate Wiring

    Sorry just saw this. I'm planning on using an ECUmasters EMU Classic. It'll be tuned on Alpha-n, as I've heard this works the best for my particular setup. At least I hope that's the case, everyone seems to have differing opinions though haha.
  2. benzintinte

    M20 ITBs

    No worries happy to answer! I'm doing an ECUmaster EMU Classic, per recommendation of RHD. I had wanted to do the Megasquirt PNP system, but it seems like 50/50 for people having good results with it.
  3. benzintinte

    Passenger Side Shock Tower Sheet Metal

    Ah I had no idea, guess I over paid. Typical. Well new price then, $20, plus shipping!
  4. benzintinte

    Rear Buckets, Valve Cover

    I can't leave well enough alone. But when the opportunity arises to get something on my bucket list, I'm not going to say no. Short background story, my friend bought an E24 last year. It sat on the back burner for a while because he was too deep in with other projects, and eventually he dropped it off at a friend's shop to just get it sorted so he could drive it. While parked there, the girlfriend of one of the techs backed a trunk into the quarter panel, and completely totaled the car. Downside, a minty 635csi died. Upside, I scored some sweet rear seats before it went off to auction. I could really use a template to cut these, before I start guessing. My spacial estimations have let me down before, I rather not get too aggressive and ruin the seats. For shits and giggles I through them in the car while cleaning yesterday. Keep in mind this is with 0 cutting, so they stick forward about a mile. But hey, they look pretty cool with the Car Make Corn's bucket seats up front. The tentative plan is to dye these black as well, get them cut and fitted, and enjoy. I also had a new valve cover done up. One thing that bugs me with a lot of M20 ITB setups is the valve cover. There is a bracket built in that supports the intake manifold. When you go the the ITBs it becomes useless. I had it shaved off, which apparently isn't the easiest process. The casting is super dirty, and pinholed quite a bit when the two holes were filled. As a result, the final powder coat shows where those holes used to be. It's minor, and I may redo this again later. But for now it's better than having the bracket, in my opinion. It's just one more side project I've added to my list, but it's whatever at this point. The car takes as long as it takes. Theoretically today I'll finally be getting the rear end back together, I'm hoping to have the chassis as a roller again this weekend. You guys will be the first to know if I succeed.
  5. benzintinte

    M20 ITBs

    Sorry for the slow response. I don't know the adapters used to mount the engine, but it uses stock M10 engine mounts. I have a G260 trans, and it uses the stock E30 trans crossmember and mounts there. I've been aware of them for a while, since I had my E30. I think my first introduction was via the KAmotors E30 running them. I had always wanted to run ITBs on that car but never could commit. I ended up seeing someone parting out their ITB'd E30 on R3vlimited recently, though they decided against it at the last minute. Lead me to breaking down and just buying a new kit.
  6. benzintinte

    AutoPlas Louvers

    I looked into it shortly after I bought them. The cost was too steep for my blood.
  7. benzintinte

    Passenger Side Shock Tower Sheet Metal

    Bump, I'm open to offers. Just want this out of my garage!
  8. benzintinte

    AutoPlas Louvers

    SOLD SOLD SOLD Very reluctantly parting ways with my set of original AutoPlas louvers. These were orange when I got them, and they were hit with a coat of black primer in preparation for paint. Some orange shows through (pictured) and a final paint job is needed. Included is a set of recreated hardware I sourced from Latvia of all places. Includes everything you need to mount the louvers under your rear weather stripping. Small crack at base of louvers (pictured). These are an original and old unit, so some brittleness is to be expected. Asking $600 which includes shipping to the lower 48. International shipping possible at additional cost to buyer. Local pickup (Phoenix, AZ) welcome.
  9. benzintinte

    M20 ITBs

    40mm kit, I'm running an otherwise stock M20 so I figured no need for the bigger bore. I'm undecided on filters yet, I have a few options I'm kicking around but since there is no room for a plenum I'll just be running foam sock filters of some sort.
  10. benzintinte

    M20 ITBs

    The parts I have been waiting for? They came in. RHD M20 ITB kit. Note, the on engine pictures are absolutely the bare minimum to mock the whole thing up. I have a long way to go before they're actually on and functional, but I wanted to see how they fit in this chassis. The kit was designed for an E30, so I may have some challenges clearing the firewall. Though it fits mocked up, it's a very tight fit. As if rewiring, replumbing and doing a full interior wasn't enough of a pain. I have other updates, but I'll catch up on those later. I'm just excited to share this bit.
  11. benzintinte

    I Hate Wiring

    This weekend I spent some time mapping out wiring. Below is a comparison picture of how it sat as I got the car, versus how it looked with the harness out of the bay. I think we can all agree it's a lot cleaner. After some discussion, mainly with myself, I figured I should go the extra mile and tuck the harness. The goal is to route the engine harness under the dash, and exit mid-firewall to allow it to reach all the necessary sensors. The headlight harness (you can see it spans the missing core support in the top picture, will be lengthened, run under the fender and then under the radiator. Same for the fan harness. The engine harness is out of the car now, and ready to be sent off for modification. I'm stuck waiting on parts so I can measure and test fit a few things before I take that step though. Also I realize that I've mentioned this a few times, but I just can't stress enough how frustrating finding things like this is. This wiring mess pictured below? I removed that from my engine bay, the two modules were screwed into the firewall and looked original to the car. It's all the original idle/choke control for the 2002! It was just left in! It took four screws and about 45 additional seconds of untangling to remove it from the car. Why leave it in? Like I said, I'm stuck waiting on one thing right now. It has to be test fit to ensure everything else around it clears, and then I can move on. In the mean time, I can't finish putting the suspension back together until my diff flanges arrive in the mail. I also need to powder coat the sway bars. My Ireland Engineering drop center sway bars came in, and they are bright blue. While I'm not going for full restoration with powder coated perfection under the car, I can't stand to have bright blue bars sticking out my otherwise pretty mellow looking car. To be clear, I'm not going for show car perfection here, but rather something that isn't offensive to look at. I need to be able to work on it relatively easily, and in it's current setup that simply isn't possible. My 2002 is far from perfect, it's full of character that I have learned to appreciate. It'll never be a Pebble Beach contender, but it also doesn't have to be a complete hack job.
  12. benzintinte

    Jumping the Shark

    Thanks! So far everything has been easy to trace, my car basically has the entire E30 system shoved inside of it. It seems to only crossover to the stock 2002 ignition switch. Otherwise they're completely independent of each other. I'll let you know if I do need anything though! Thanks! Fair enough haha, either way it's an unnecessary but large project. I suppose the part I just ordered is more in line with jumping the shark. A lot of flash, probably not needed... That's what more what I had in mind, should have saved the title for a future post.
  13. benzintinte

    Jumping the Shark

    So in trying to remove the diff from the drive shaft, I was poking around the underside of the car and discovered something fairly alarming. At some point, the nuts holding the transmission brace had rattled off, and the whole brace had fallen onto the exhaust. It wasn't that far off, not even the length of the studs extending under the car. Maybe half an inch total lower then it should be. However, I think we all know that an exhaust should not be holding your transmission in the car. Discovering this, I made a snap decision to just pull the engine. Here's my logic... Since I purchased this car, I've been less than impressed with the plumbing and wiring. It always felt like a rush job. The previous owner told me that he brought it to a shop in his area to have them complete those two areas, and they clearly just phoned it in. While it is functional, the car did run after all, it is ugly and completely unservicable. For example, if the shift linkage failed, the exhaust would have to come out completely to reach it. In order to remove the exhaust, the subframe has to come out. This is because the exhaust is one piece front to back, a removable mid section would prevent this. Same with the wiring, the radiator fan wiring ran a full loop of the engine bay for no apparent reason, and every single wire coming off the relay was the same color. These are details that make working on the car a nightmare. So time to redo everything. First the hood came off. Side note, Jesus Christ the 2002 has a heavy hood. Like surprisingly so. You can see I started moving things around in the engine bay. I cut the exhaust off the car underneath, but the bolts from the header to the midsection were seized, so it's stuck together. I can't drop the exhaust out the gap, so it'll have to come out after the engine. It is free from the car entirely though. Below are some examples of the things that drive me nuts about this swap. The wiring is zip tied to coolant hoses, relay blocks are shoved where ever they'll sit, dead systems just remain in the car for no real reason. I found quite a few wires sitting in the engine bay that just generally lead no where on either end. These zip ties were all removed from coolant hoses. Almost all of them were tightened to the point where they were digging into the hose. In many cases wiring harness portions were also ziptied to the hose, and then the whole lot was zip tied to the chassis. Look, zip ties are useful in moderation. But this engine bay basically fell apart when I started removing zip ties. I finished the weekend removing the intake manifold. A hateful job that was 100% designed by someone who had a grudge against people with big hands. I spent far too much time removing that manifold from the engine. I wanted to do it in the bay to give myself more room to extract the engine, but I borderline regret doing that now. It ate up hours. The cooling system was removed as well, and the wiring harness was labeled and separated from the engine as best as I could. I'm sure we'll discover how good a job I did when the engine comes out. Once the engine is out, it's time for some clean up. I'll be cutting off any brackets that are not needed, plugging any holes that serve no purpose, and sending the car off again for some fresh engine bay paint. I won't call it a shaved bay, but... trimmed? Yeah, sure trimmed bay. I also ordered something I'm extremely excited about, this part is the crowning jewel to this car. It'll realize the dream 2002 for me. I'm being intentionally vague until they get in, so in the mean time, here's a picture of my dog.
  14. benzintinte

    Boring but Necessary

    This weekend marked very slow progress, but progress all the same. I spent some time removing bushings, which is a very smelly process. It started with finally removing the control arms from the car. I had to borrow a ball joint separator to get the tie rods off. Also, as it turns out the M20 is very much in the way of getting the driver's side control arm off. While I eventually did manage to jump on a breaker bar and get everything loose, it wasted a ton of time. Perks of owning a hot rod I suppose. One thing I noticed, is the control arm bushings were toast on the passenger side. The car has had some wicked pull under braking, something I tried to iron out with new pads/rotors etc. But this was almost certainly the reason for it. In fact it was so bad on the bushing picture below, I could tear the bushing apart by hand. For the rest, I resorted to burning. I installed all of the bushings on the passenger side, which I later realized I have to undo. But here's photos of that process. The first (horrible, and underlit photo) is the new radius arm bushing. For any of you attempting this job, and have to do this bushing, it is very much a pain to remove. I used the radius arm for leverage and eventually was able to pry out the stock bushing. The 2 piece poly unit went in much easier. After I pressed in those bushings, I felt it was a little bit of a waste to have the arm looking that grimey. Eager to test out the paint I had picked up the other day, I decided to test it out on the other control arm, and rear subframe push rods. I'm using Rustoleum Rust Inhibitor, and will do a final coat in glossy enamel. However yesterday was one of the two cold, rainy days we get here in Arizona. So despite my best efforts, it was far too humid and cold to properly paint. The photo is pretty poor, which is par for the course in my thread. They were soaking wet with paint there, but did eventually dry an even coat once I got them in the garage where it was warmer. I decided to wait to lay down the final enamel coat due to the weather, I didn't want to make things worse, even if it would all be hidden under the car. Sometime this week I'll pull the other bushings from the control arm back out, and give that a good coat too. But for a test, things went about as well as I could hope. It should prevent any future rust or harm. I then finished the weekend out burning out the remaining trailing arm bushings. A miserable process, but necessary all the same. This week I'm waiting for a pretty important part to arrive in the mail. Once that arrives, I can place yet another order with Ireland Engineering, and hopefully I'll be set to start putting the car back together. I miss driving it a lot, so the anxiety of having it sit in the garage all torn apart is starting to get to me.
  15. benzintinte

    Passenger Side Shock Tower Sheet Metal

    Bump, I dropped the price. Just looking to clear some space in the garage, open to offers. Thanks!