rstclark

The IE radiator will fit easy. The question is will the stock-fan still fit. There is no science to this just have a minimum half inch clearance between the fan and the radiator pushing the drivetrain back is a whole other topic. I won’t go into here More important is to not let the drivetrain move forward at higher rpms our under high tourque situations Don’t ask how I know be sure your Motor mounts and transmission mount are good and good and tight Another option is to move the radiator forward m20 swaps notch the nose and move the radiator forward The nose can be notched and slotted to let the mounting wings of the radiator drop in on the front of the front mounting wall. Could buy you the space you need if you don’t mind cutting the nose a little Tip. Use a piece of small hose that has been slit to protect the front of the radiator from the metal edge of the car body nose Tells what you do

Chris Is there a parade lap option or schedule at Laguna Seca for our cars ? I'd be interested if we had a chance to drive our cars on the track My only on track experience at Laguna Seca is picking up trash while in Army basic training at Fort Ord Driving my 02 would be a better memory

I have an IE radiator with an ac condenser and pusher fan that works There is not enough room for the stock fan on the water pump without hitting the radiator, so I went to this set up IE Radiator AC condenser mounted directly to the radiator then, as big a high volume pusher fan as you can fit in mounted directly on the condenser. Rob Siegel's advise is to get a fan that will suck dogs off the sidewalk. Seriously research a 12 inch - I think - with the highest volume air flow you can find . Hint it's not the IE fan The fan is triggered by the temp switch set up sold by IE. Add a relay for this motor if it's not provided My car runs at the mid point of the heat gauge, but when stopped at a long light, it will reach three quarters then the fan turns on and holds at three quarters until I get moving again when the temp goes back down and the fan shuts off. In another non AC car I installed a fan, switched by a light switch in the fog light location, just to have a stock fan plus an electric pusher You could do the same to have a manual on operation in addition to the temp switch By the way, be sure to put the fan in first while the radiator it out Just lay it in the front nose loose until the radiator and condenser are in place. Just use the Nylon ties often sold for trans coolers to sandwich the parts directly together. It helps to have three hands for this , Get a helper for a total of four hands to do it right Best Regards

Also check the condition and tightness of the transmission mount on the back of the transmission Replacing it might be a good idea if these is any movement or slop in the rubber

I'm not intending to hijack this thread but since It seems to have run it's course, Does anyone have information or experience with an Isky 300 cam It uses the standard journals.

Not sure it really matters as long as the points maintain the correct gap My guess would be that the fiber rib rubbing on the distributor shaft would always be engaged. Just buy a new set of points and see if the fiber is worn down compared to the existing set, or not likely , the spring tension on the existing points is too relaxed

You need a good radiator to climb mountains when it’s 113 Guess you picked the right car for the job

I really like the "Florida" car on the end Is it a 1600 ? Maybe a 1969 ?

I also have rear door cards in black for late model pretty nice condition but not your color I can take them to Dave Varco for him to recover in the matching material and have him ship to you Looking for say $100

I have a set of late seats 1976 complete that work with all plastics etc. But they are in California and shipping may be a killer. Can offer for $200 plus whatever shipping may be Will supply photos if your interested Rob

You're not likely to find one already shortened Suggest you just find a 4 speed drive shaft and have it modified -- shortened and balanced locally for your exact needs

2002s have been bringing pretty big prices on BAT and his year Of course they are quality cars for the most part . Iocally in California there seems to be a flood of 76’s at prices that seem high for even out of state where there are no smog requirements. Try to find a decent 75 or older for less than $ 10k and it’s slim pickings My impression is that prices are not falling but hollding steady Personnaly I think there is good reason to own appreciating assets and BMW 2002s fit the bill

Perfect with the radar speed signs

Had my speedo redone by NH Speedo and calibrated for rear end and tires. As I recall they asked me to flag the speedo cable and count the revolutions for 50 feet Easy to do. Just tape off 50 foot distance on the street and try it a few times to get a good average of the counts.

Scoob So glad to hear of another 02er becoming aware of the virtues of vacuum advance Regarding the “why” I posted a response that describes the how and why in generic terms on page 21 of this thread I won’t go into it here just look it up. Vacuum advance seems to be under appreciated or completely unappreciated by the majority of gearheads. Go back to page 21 and see if the post gives you an overall concept understanding . Regarding getting a bunch of vacuum readings and trying to calculate a vacuum MAP, just take some of the settings in the early postings around page 4 or 5 and start from there. If you have the 123 tune with two curves, set a base on curve 1 then make changes to the vacuum curve on curve 2. Butt dyno each curve till you find the one that works best in you car. The vacuum curve is less critical then the mechanical curve I believe but it is an essential complement to get rid of bogs and hesitation Some people fight with carb jetting and carb tuning when the problem is really proper ignition timing using a combination of mechanical and advance curves It sounds like you are already in the ballpark. Good luck with your testing

PS I have a 240 without mechanical speedo drive that I will sell cheap

There has been one on San Diego Craigslist for some time now but the guy is asking $950 There may be more than one right now but again they are high priced Maybe worth a look

Relax Drive it ! The old adage holds true “if it’s not broke, don’t fix it “

Dick IMHO CD's prescription is a little fat for a stock motor especially on the secondary side. but then the old saying is "a fat motor is a happy motor" up to a point I think I would just start with the original jets and airs and emulsion tubes Then adjust after running it a little to solve any and bogs or stumbles. For my slightly modified motor with 9.5:1 pistons, 284 cam and shorty headers I'm happy with the following: P Idle 65, P Main 150, P Air Corrector 170 S Idle 55, S Main 145, S Air Corrector 160 Emulsion Tubes are F-50 This is probably a little rich for a stock motor but you could reduce the jets one setting at a time to see how your car performs My 2 cents

If you have ever had a strut tube break loose while driving , trust me,you will take all precautions necessary to see that it doesn't happen again. Both of my cars have locktite and safety wire. Could be a safety overkill. It's like wearing a belt and suspenders but I'm pretty confident that the cars are safe The plyers and the wire are inexpensive. Once you get the hang of it you might safety wire all the rest of the suspension too

Yes I bought one. Its installed in the car, but since I live at the coast I've never completed it with dryer and electrical connections So cant say how well it works. The bracket fit fine The compressor was a Chinese knock off of a Denso wobble plate type. The condenser and fan were most likely Chinese too. The hoses need to be cut and crimped While I don't have operating experience, I expect it will be better than the original air conditioning when it was new Maybe I'll finish it this Summer if I get totally bored.

Yeah the printout shows 8.6 degrees of caster Without any specific knowledge about the dynamics of alignment I would assume that caster is the least critical setting. For our cars, neither camber or caster are adjustable They are determined by where the the three top strut bolts mount to the body under the hood If the frame or unibody are bent or out of original placement then the camber and caster will not align to specs I’m going to use KMack adjustable top plates that allow the location of the top of the strut to be moveable giving the ability to adjust both camber and caster Most adjustable plates only adjust for camber particularly for track cars Makes me think that caster is not that critical, but again I have only limited appreciation alignment and the effects of changing the geometry of a front end

John from you post it looks like the stock caster recommendation is 4 degrees Is that what your car has been running?