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pato2002

Kugelfischer
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  1. Some quick/ rough answers: 1. I had to remove most of the tar-like sound deadening to repair rust in the floorboards. I replaced it with "Peel & Seal" roofing material. I will probably go back and add some more thermal (if not sound) insulation at the firewall and forward tunnel. With Coco mats on top of the carpet, it is pretty good currently. 2. Cost was Carpet ($50), Peel & Seal ($20) and Spray Glue ($10). Total $80-100 depending on additional insulation or other stuff. 3. You could easily fit the fax machine in the back seat area but powering it will require a bigger alternator and an inverter not too mention the really long phone cord...
  2. If you want professional looking carpet, go with Esty. If you are more function over form, this is a very cheap alternative. I used a roll of plotter paper (36" wide but you could probably use the brown roll from Lowes/ HD). I did not have my old carpet so I had to make patterns by hand. It is much easier if you can just copy your existing set. I rough cut the paper oversize then placed it in the car and trimmed to get it to lay mostly flat. If you can get paper to lay flat, carpet is easy! Once the paper templates were done, I laid them on a roll of office carpet I bought at Lowes (https://www.lowes.com/pd/Select-Elements-Home-Office-Crestline-12-ft-Needlebond-Interior-Exterior-Carpet/1000411979), and put out the pieces. Cut a little large as it is easier to cut a bit more off than add a bit more on :). Last, some spray glue (I do not remember if I used 3M #90 or Permatex Headline). Go in 2 foot sections/ lengths as you will need to move it a bit. Once all pieces are in, do a bit of trimming at the edges and you are done.
  3. I like it but I like the van more. I would totally DD that van!
  4. Try the negative terminal on the coil first. Easy check.
  5. Just to close this post out... it turned out to be a bad differential, probably the pinion bearing. Now to look for a differential rebuilder in Houston...
  6. Yes. The plastic adhesion promoter works great on vinyl. I used it on my rear seats going from blue to black. Also on some door panel trim on other car. Great finish. Very flexible but time will tell on abrasion resistance. Online reviews are good but take that for what it’s worth.
  7. I really like the SEM Color Coat spray. Landau Black is great for interior pieces. Not too shiny or dull. For parts that will see a bit of contact like seats and door pulls, I also recommend the adhesion promoter. You may be able to find them at your local auto parts store but I just order them from Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B3HXS8A/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_K8KEDbKJQ3TJQ https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007VTSRZ8/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_d8KEDbHHR5VP8
  8. Yeah, the concept car was posted a few months ago. Not sure who their market is. For a cooler engine swap, check this out. BMW S62! https://engineswapdepot.com/?p=20401
  9. If you decide to start replacing panels, RD have good panels at a fair price: http://www.restoration-design.com/store/category/BMW
  10. Maybe already covered but the string method works just fine for adjusting toe. You need to be able to get to the tie-rods (not as high as I have it) but pretty simple.
  11. I think the E30 & E36 318i had an optional 3.45 small case LSD. You should be able to swap the guts into your case.
  12. Yep, that is my current fear.... the differential requiring a rebuild or, worst case, replacement. As mentioned, I will take a last look around the rear brakes and half shafts tonight then try to get it back on the road to better define conditions for noise. After that, I may try for a low speed run over to the inspection shop for my "safety inspection" then pull the differential. Thanks all for the help so far. JsnPpp, I am trying to be ready for the hill country run during 02berfest so, hopefully, I will be sorted and see you there.
  13. The blocks are fully screwed together. I didn't want any chance of shifting/ sliding. You can leave them with the middle board out up and they act as chocks or flip over and put a smooth board (with plastic bag for reduced friction) on for alignments. See photo from tonight. I checked the entire drive shaft, shifter, trans support and exhaust. Plenty of clearance, tight, no signs of rubbing. Based on some thoughts from my local club, I loosened the differential mounting bolts, shook everything up a bit and then re-torqued. I listened to the longer video and believe the sound in only on deceleration clutch in or out. Not sure about under braking. Sound louder from rear of car. Sound came on after accelerating in 1, 2, and 3rd gear. Too hot tonight but I will pull rear wheel tomorrow and see if there are any signs of rubbing around brake backing plate.
  14. I have built and installed a few Megasquirts. I like the system, especially the price/ value, but, unless you have a fair bit of soldering experience, suggest getting the assembled one from DIYAutotune. It is easy to make a mistake or get a cold joint. I would rather spend my frustration budget on the car wiring and tuning than worrying about a DIY board. This is enough for nearly anything you need, especially starting out: https://www.diyautotune.com/product/megasquirt-iii-ems-system-v3-57-assembled-unit-w-black-case/ Also, strong recommendation to buy the prebuilt wiring harness and a medium recommendation for the relay board (depends on your install).
  15. Thanks for the suggestions. The lift is a low rise scissor so, yes, it unloads the suspension. I will drop it onto some cribbing blocks tonight and recheck clearances. Photo of cribbing blocks for the curious. These are simple to make and awesome for working underneath.


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