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pato2002

Kugelfischer
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  1. I recently got my car back on the road after a bunch of work (EFI conversion, 5spd, floorboard rust repair). I am getting a screeching, metal-on-metal noise when I drive it. I seems to only make the noise on coasting/ decel but I am not 100% positive. The sound appears to be localized to the rear but I cannot tell if it is center or one side. Sound file attached. 1. I cant see any rubbing marks 2. I have put the car on the lift and the wheel bearings seem tight and dont make any noise or vibration. Both shaking and spinning by hand. 3. New Valvoline 80-90 gear oil in the diff. Opened fill plug and oil seems to be clean. Should I be using something else? 4. Center bearing is new (included with the shortened driveshaft from IE) and adjusted correctly. 5. I even ran the car in first on the lift and cannot replicate the noise. Anything else I can check? Any ideas what it is? weird noise.mp3
  2. That is awesome but 45+ hours!? Wow, I feel like a slacker for procrastinating any print over 3-4 hrs... Well done, sir.
  3. Someone sent me a PM about the wiring and I figure others may also have questions. Anyone that has done this switch successfully, please chime in as I am sure there are better ways to do it. The OEM box has 12 fuses and about 24 connections on the bottom to 4 plastic "sticks" that hold the spade connectors. On my car, these were a black stick, a double-row white stick and 2 other single row whites sticks. I mapped them out, confirmed the wiring diagram and duplicated it on excel. I then made a translation to the new 10-fuse box with 20 connections on the bottom. I also had to add a power supply for the Megasquirt (MS) EFI controller. From there, I made a bunch of 3-4 inch spade connector jumpers. Where you see 2 wires in a single box (position 8 has doubles in and out), I made a double jumper. I apologize as I am terrible about getting photos while I am doing a project. You may note that the above does not match the final fuse config I posted before as I screwed up and got a little confused. However, during the final circuit confirmation and continuity checks, I got everything identified and even found a connection that came loose (lighter). Hopefully that answers any questions. I probably should turn this into an article or something.
  4. Personally, I really like this one: http://www.bavarian-crono.de/shop/Editions-Speedo-Watches/BMW/Edition-of-BMW-2002-turbo-Speedo-Watch::38.html?XTCsid=a3b81669ef70233d8aad82a90049cb72
  5. FYI, You can use a lawnmower cable to replace a broken seat release cable on old recaro seats. I happened to have one from my old mower and the offset end fit fine. For the bottom connection, you can use a small brass or aluminum tube or even a lead sinker clamped on tight. Once again, my junk pile yielded an easier solution. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07C2SZ2BP/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_OesdDbE5Q7H17
  6. Time-sert > Helicoil. Time-serts are a one piece threaded insert whereas the helicoil is, appropriately named, a wire coil. The TS will give a more positive seal, greater strength and lower risk of backing out or other failure.
  7. I’ll take them. Pm sent.
  8. I may need to look into modelling the tail light molded gasket (#5). I did model a flat gasket for the square mirrors and another forum member did the swan necks mirror gasket (much better than my effort).
  9. Awesome. Pretty cool to see in a second car.
  10. It looks like most here are proposing proper ITBs (Jenvey, TWM, PMO, etc) but, if you are on a budget, you might consider motorcycle ITB's. I have seen some success using GSXR and Triumph ITBs paired with an tunable ECU (Megasquirt, AEM, FAST, whatever). The GSXR uses hose couplers in and out while the Triumphs have a bolted base and hose top. There are a ton of posts over on the Pelican Porsche forums if you are interested.
  11. Thingiverse account up and running. I am still learning how to use it but the filter support and fuse box adapter should be posted. https://www.thingiverse.com/Mahakalah/designs
  12. To get from 12 fuses to 10, I combined 7&8 (parking lights) into a single 7.5A fuse and 9&10 (low beams) into a single 15A fuse.
  13. OK. I made a Thingiverse account and will post the filter support and some other designs as soon as it lets me (new user 24hr wait).
  14. I would try chemical first and then go mechanical. Using a dremel or sandpaper will show scratches, give an uneven surface finish, etc. Maybe try some chemical cleaners/ strippers (lacquer thinner, paint stripper, MEK, nail polish remover, oven cleaner, etc) on a cue-tip first. You also want to be careful to not remove the labels. If you can remove the faceplates easy, do that first as it will be easier to work on.
  15. OK, some quick answers/ photos. For the 10-fuse block, I bought this one and am quite pleased, It is good quality construction. If you cannot make the adapter, they have another that has the spades on top. To connect it, I made some short (~3in) pigtails with male/ female spade connectors. It is pretty tight but I didnt really want to cut all the originals. There may be a more elegant solution. Honestly, I would not recommend the 6-fuse, 5-relay box. It it fussy regarding the connectors and is pretty cheap construction. I will be looking for a nicer solution but live with this for now. To support the filter, I printed a U-shaped saddle that press-fits onto the bumper bolt. I may add some glue for security but it fits tight and does a good job of supporting the filter. That said, I haven't put any miles on it yet. I will look for a better photo tonight. If you want the file, let me know. Lastly, no one asked but I highly recommend this cable wrap. Soooo much better than tape or the cruddy corrugated tube.


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