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About pato2002

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  1. pato2002


    I’ll take them. PM in bound.
  2. I also ran mine from the rear of the head to the firewall and then over to the oem penetration to the cabin. Small flex bend at the gap from engine to firewall. I also highly recommend the woven split loom products. I used this one in a couple sizes from Amazon.
  3. I will post some photos tonight but I ran CuNi tubing for supply and return along the factory route. To secure, I welded little weld-nuts to the floor and then screwed clips to them. It came out pretty good although I determined that tube bending is much more difficult than it looks.
  4. Check the relay and wiring to it. It is a 6 or 7 pin box up under the dash. I had a similar issue after I put everything back together and it turned out I had that box plugged in backwards (originally they were keyed but it can be removed).
  5. Interesting idea. I think a book similar to Wayne's "101 Projects" book would be cool. Not a repository for arcane info (sorry Toby) but a collection of all the common/ popular jobs and maybe some other stuff (wiring diagrams, wheel sizes/ offset, torque values, etc).
  6. Nice work, Götesson. How about the full intake flange so I can try my hand at an ITB adapter plate?
  7. You should be able to make some adapters. Good post: Measurements (in millimeters): BMW Seat Rails: 440W x 310L Sliders: 340L Recaros: 405W x 261L
  8. Honestly, there are sooo many wires there that I was concerned I would get confused and never get it wired up correctly if I started cutting. As it was, I still made mistakes and had to triple check my work. If concerned about resale, it also makes sense but that was not my main concern. That said, if I was to cut wires and make it permanent, I would do lineman's soldered joints rather than crimp butt-joints. I used them on all my EFI wiring. Good luck! Lineman splice/ joint:
  9. I bought these ($14 for 30) they are maybe a hair larger than the originals and good quality. And they are green.😊
  10. As Toby said, I think the more common approach is the angled water neck. They even have three sensor ports (I am using one for gauge, one for EFI computer and the last blanked for now). See bottom one in photo.
  11. Some quick/ rough answers: 1. I had to remove most of the tar-like sound deadening to repair rust in the floorboards. I replaced it with "Peel & Seal" roofing material. I will probably go back and add some more thermal (if not sound) insulation at the firewall and forward tunnel. With Coco mats on top of the carpet, it is pretty good currently. 2. Cost was Carpet ($50), Peel & Seal ($20) and Spray Glue ($10). Total $80-100 depending on additional insulation or other stuff. 3. You could easily fit the fax machine in the back seat area but powering it will require a bigger alternator and an inverter not too mention the really long phone cord...
  12. If you want professional looking carpet, go with Esty. If you are more function over form, this is a very cheap alternative. I used a roll of plotter paper (36" wide but you could probably use the brown roll from Lowes/ HD). I did not have my old carpet so I had to make patterns by hand. It is much easier if you can just copy your existing set. I rough cut the paper oversize then placed it in the car and trimmed to get it to lay mostly flat. If you can get paper to lay flat, carpet is easy! Once the paper templates were done, I laid them on a roll of office carpet I bought at Lowes (https://www.lowes.com/pd/Select-Elements-Home-Office-Crestline-12-ft-Needlebond-Interior-Exterior-Carpet/1000411979), and put out the pieces. Cut a little large as it is easier to cut a bit more off than add a bit more on :). Last, some spray glue (I do not remember if I used 3M #90 or Permatex Headline). Go in 2 foot sections/ lengths as you will need to move it a bit. Once all pieces are in, do a bit of trimming at the edges and you are done.
  13. I like it but I like the van more. I would totally DD that van!
  14. Try the negative terminal on the coil first. Easy check.
  15. Just to close this post out... it turned out to be a bad differential, probably the pinion bearing. Now to look for a differential rebuilder in Houston...
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